Member postings for mark smith 20

Hi Not sure if this is in the right forum, but as anyone had any experience of this and was treatment /operation etc,,, successful.

Due to go to the doctors next week, developed symptoms a couple of weeks back ,gradual numbness of little finger and ring finger. I never thought i used those fingers on my left hand so much but find several tasks increasingly awkward to do ,alongside the occasional dropping stuff.

Can still bend fingers alright but the lack of sensitivity is causing me problems.

thanks

I think all tools are dangerous if your unlucky or careless. I have a radial arm saw which are supposed to be notorious but never had a problem using it as yet.

Worse accident ive had was when i was using a handheld router and the cutter went across my thumb but no lasting damage.

Second worst a rotary table. It was on a shelf next to a bandsaw , i left the bandsaw running ,whilst picking something off the floor and the rotary table fell off the shelf due to vibration onto my arm leaving a great big bruise.Luckily no break.

Hi Ian, i have a few Italian friends who i could ask for you if you send me a pm with the details.

I used a timing belt and pulleys on my xj12-300 variation (3/4hp motor) and haven`t really had a problem with it ,but i have a bigger mill now as well.

Does anyone know why the pultra saddle only has a guide block (gib thingy) underneath on the front side of the ways , its always confused me (the reason behind it) as they do tend to move occasionally without tightening excessively?

Also has the model P cross /top slide on it. I have a model P with the later lever tailstock like on yours.

Michaels right, the riser blocks are for what he mentioned. Are you sure the green paint isnt recent over the original black rough finish ive seen on some pultras.

Maurice , i noticed this when i add more ferric chloride to the bath,it stopped the reaction.

The film that forms prevents the reaction and its a fine balance using the toner method between carefully brushing the surface with a soft brush and removing parts of the toner(which you dont want until your finished). If your not going very deep then just agitating the bath works.

I think i added some citric acid to the bath as well but cant remember, may have been something else.

Silver plating has always used cyanide solutions particularly in industry ,there are alternatives but cyanides give the best results especially from a cosmetic point of view.

Alternatives use thiosulphates etc.. Which interestingly can be used as part of an antidote for cyanide poisoning.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 27/03/2017 10:20:21

Phil,

Its quite simple the hardest part is painting the plate.

I bought a cheap used laser printer off ebay.In my case a Samsung ML-1860. It had half the original toner cartridge still in (worked great) and later found out that cheap compatable toner cartridges dont work very well.

I printed out the reverse image onto mylar drafting film using the best quality and blackest print settings.

I then placed it over the brass plate which was cleaned and polished before hand with alcohol or acetone and ironed the mylar on a hot setting .

Carefully and slowly peeled off the mylar before it cooled too much and it leaves the black toner as a mask on the brass plate.If all goes well it should look like this.

I then coated the back with a couple of coats of shellac,quick drying acrylic varnish will do,just to stop etching on the back of the plate.

I then prepared a simple warm bath of ferric chloride in an old icecream tub. I didnt take much notice of the strength of the solution but probably about 25gms in 1/2 litre of water.

Then just put it in the bath and gently tilted the tub occasionally to keep te solution a bit agitated.

You can use a very soft brush to brush the surface but after a while the toner becomes sensitive to abrasion.

Heres a different plate in the bath.

Thats basically it ,clean off the toner with a dish cleaner scruber (like the scotchbrite pads).

Using a laser printer and ferric chloride would probably work quite well at that depth of etch. heres a southbend lathe QC Gear box plate i did and it was my first attempt.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 26/03/2017 09:53:45

Making your own silvering solution is not cheap . Despite the price of silver being quite low ,anything made out of it is expensive probably for market reasons . For instance 50gms of silver nitrate will cost you between £50-£100. Theoretically you could make that amount for around £20.

Hi Ian, Yes i know all this ,I use wood that is around 50 year old or older , from private stocks etc..... and have enough for the next 10-15 years .

There is a big organisation which is supported by bowmakers who are actively replanting trees.

I am also against deforestation of any type. The biggest destroyers of forests are cattle farming and palm oil at the moment .

Hi Clogs , yes i`ll keep this in mind as i could use with my dust extractor.

I still intend building something like this . I found a manual for the axminster version of the previous one i linked to .

**LINK**

Im still unsure how they work though , i assume that the fan would go in the middle of the enclosure if i used a fan like this

**LINK**

hr-/301794039113?hash=item4644539549:g:KtkAAOSwAYtWP8l5

What sort of motors do these fans have and are they likely to be noisy?

The rectangular outlet of the fan is fixed to the back side with a grill of some sort over the opening.

I would need to enclose both ends and perhaps the top of the fan with some type of slide in pleated filters?

One thing i dont understand is where does all the dust go ,does it just all collect in the bottom of the unit and around the filters???

Does any dust blow out of the outlet grill??

Any advice appreciated.

I reckon i could make a decent bench/table for under £200 , as opposed to £1000 that axminster are asking . I mean its basically just a large box .

Edited By mark smith 20 on 25/03/2017 11:01:44

Hi Clogs , interesting.

Ive decided to make something slightly substantial  like this . I have a light steel framed bench on castors which could be boxed in all around. I watched the video and it is extremely quiet (not sure why) .

**LINK**

Im uncertain where the filters go in relation to the fan , i like the look of this fan ,though cant even see where the motor is???  Which is the inlet and which is the outlet?

**LINK**

Lots of filters on ebay such as **LINK**

Where does the fine dust go in these tables? Does it collect on the filters or drop in the bottom?

Edited By mark smith 20 on 24/03/2017 19:38:22

Thanks i did read that site a while back but ended up getting confused with all the talk of air volume etc...

Hi martin, I have started getting severe sneezing fits and blocked nose . The wood i mainly use is this (extremely expensive stuff)

**LINK**

, i cant avoid it as its my job and the prefered only wood . I do use others such as ironwood species ,which also irritate to various degrees.

I would actually use a fumehood if i had the room and cash.

From what i can see the downdraft table in the link i posted to use one of those fans and some sort of large filter ,the reason i want to make one is that they cost a fortune but are basically just a fancy box/bench with one of those centrafugal fans inside. Which should be cheap to make yourself . I cant find any parts manuals to see if theres anything else to them.

Blowing dust right onto the garden flower bed wouldnt be a problem for me.

I had actually considered one of those flat box jobs you point to but they dont seem too powerful.

Thanks for the suggestions, is there something wrong with the downdraft table in the link i posted. Are they not efficient ,design faults etc...???

I cant stand wearing masks if i can get away with it, and full face stuff is out of the question as i would be using it everyday for hours.

This is strictly for hand work not powertools.

Steven Vine i already have a Axminster twin motor dust extractor, attached to a large bandsaw. Its incredibly noisy .

Extracting to outside is an option i`d consider.

Hi,

In my work im becoming increasing sensitive to the wood dust i make .

How would one go about making something like this (see link) out of plywood but with very efficient extraction of fine dust. I cant afford to buy one of these and i see centrugal fans on ebay for around £100. The work surface only needs to be around 1m x 0.5m . I don`t understand the ins and outs of extraction or how these fans work.

Any advice welcome.

Thanks

**LINK**

Example of fan

**LINK**

**LINK**