Member postings for mark smith 20

I think one of the best books about manual lathe use is still the book first published by South Bend `How to run a Lathe`. The boxford version is in the link below. . From page 19 there is a chapter on grinding lathe tools. Some may disagree of tool profiles etc... but most do work well for grinding your own carbon (not much used nowadays)and HSS tool steel blanks.

I use a Southbend and a small Pultra (about the size of the cowell) and still nearly always use exclusively HSS toolbits that ive ground myself from square or round blanks,along the lines of whats in the book.

**LINK**

Edited By mark smith 20 on 08/09/2017 16:49:18

Southbend version here

http://campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_1of2.pdf

Edited By mark smith 20 on 08/09/2017 16:53:00

NDIY, ok point taken , i dont want rubbish. But also dont want ultra expensive as im only a hobby machinist.

Regarding facemills, i see alot of nice looking brand facemills but can you only use the companies expensive own brand inserts or can you use cheaper other brands. Such as this one. I dont know whether the facemill is a bargain or a money pit.

**LINK**

Edited By mark smith 20 on 07/09/2017 11:43:53

Hi John ,Thanks thats the sort of info im looking for . Is Banggood reliable and can you use paypal for stuff??Never heard of it before now.

This is the sort of thing i think i need available from this German ebay seller.Ive just bought the er32,i assume most of the stuff is chinese being resold.

**LINK**

**LINK**

They also sell these which enable use of the tangless mt4 stuff as long as they have a M16 thread in the end.

**LINK**

Emgee, yes i have the overarm but im specifically interesting in the vertical milling at the moment as this is all ive done ,although on benchtop mills (chinese x2 variety and a tiny proxxon) . I need to fit a new bronze bush to the overarm bracket as its too worn to use.

But to use a face mill do i need to buy another arbor with the two locating prongs , most appear to be metric sizes like 22mm or 27mm etc... location diameters . I just need any advice on the types with carbide inserts ,dont really want to but one cheap on ebay to find out later that the inserts cost an arm and a leg.

Hi,

Last year i refurbished a Alexander Toolmaker mill with MT$ spindle but haven`t had much spare time since ,but im looking for some sort of facemill .

I didnt get much tooling with the mill ,a Clarkson autolock and 4 collets (up to 5/8" ) , 3 dedicated s20 collets 1/4.3/8 and 1/2" with spindle adapter. I  have also  ordered a  s20/ER 32  collet holder from german ebay only cause i have a full set of collets already.

I did get this in the photo which looks like a slitting saw /shell mill arbor.

What could i fit on the end of this or am i limited to old imperial HSS shell mills?

Im really looking for something of around 3 " or around 80mm which will give a good finish on soft steels and occasionally aluminium. I am thoroughly confused by the vast array of tc facemill and inserts . I will also occasionally be milling very hard woods which i assume a hss shell mill would be better than carbide.

Any suggestions !

thanks

This is all the tooling i got with the mill.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 06/09/2017 20:48:02

Or use prohibitally expensive oxygen free copper and embrittlement wouldnt be a problem.

I think he refering to removing the adaoter that often can get stuck tight. The draw bar is threaded internally  on the end so your not supposed to use it for banging out the adapter.

On my southbend the nose protector when placed behind can be unscrewed to force out the adapter. as in photo of my southbend.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 05/09/2017 15:08:49

Theres a thread here,**LINK**

What do you mean by different? You usually need a spindle nose adapter like on my Southbend..

Edited By mark smith 20 on 05/09/2017 09:50:35

Got the vice together apart from jaws, stoned all the dings /burrs of all the slideways, had to make new jib strip . Also

put the `t` back in British. The vice opens an closes pretty stiffly ,almost impossible by hand but easy with a handle. I suppose tighter is better where milling is concerned.

.Michael it appears the company have been having ``issues`` for a while ,and reading google reviews for Starloc adhesives ....... shame really as their stuff is quite good.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 04/09/2017 10:41:26

Thanks for the reply , so at least one person has one of these. I cant even find another photo of one on google. There must be more around.

I unfortunately dont have a shaper or surface grinder ,as that would be an easy solution for the jaws. So probably have to use flat ground stock , not cheap though when i only want around half of a standard 500mm length.

Im surprised no one sells blank jaw plates without holes in the UK ,only in the US i think.

This is the only mention i can find of ace, even Tony Griffiths site says they dont know who made ace lathes,if they are even the same company who made the vices.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 04/09/2017 10:29:56

Edited By mark smith 20 on 04/09/2017 10:30:36

Bought this vice off ebay ,needs a little work but its the right size i was after (4 1/2 " jaws) and i like older stuff. Its a Ace Precision Vice. Anyone know who made them ?ive only found one reference to them being supplied by Adcock and Shipley.

need jaws sorted as the fixed jaw is bent and the moving one is raised in the middle along the length. Is something like 40mm wide ground flat stock suitable to make two new jaws??

Has the usual drill pecking to the based which ive just filled with epoxy and zinc powder (didnt have any iron powder). The epoxy was some ive used loads of time from here. I think its quite reasonably priced and always seems good quality. Also you dont even have to pay immediately,which is rare nowadays.

http://www.shop4glue.com/epoxy-resin-adhesives-and-glues-18-c.asp

Seems ok ,ive scraped it down with a very sharp chisel whilst still soft ,and left it raised about 1/2 - 1 mm above the surface until its fully hardened.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 19:44:15

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 19:47:17

As far as i know if your drill has the right motor mount its just a matter of replacing the original standard speed pulley on this contraption with this pulley but im not certain as i dont have the drill press and the original poster hasnt stated what model and year his drill is. I think the belt length has to change as well.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 16:37:31

Without knowing the model of the drill or how the pulley attaches ,this is what they sold which included the spigot attachmentment to mount to the motor bracket. Some models already have this way of attachment.

From looking about it may possibly be the no pv 62 ,i think pv58 is the standard speed pulley.

I like Walker Turner stuff ,i have a nice original driverline wood bandsaw.

This might help but it doesnt state what is the slow speed pulley for the drill press.

The speeds for the 60hz slow speed pulley running at 1740 rpm are 480, 940 ,1300 and 2900 on the driverline drill press. Proportionately slower for the UK  50 hz motor i would assume. My motor on the bandsaw is 1440 rpm.

theres a few on US ebay ,if you can find the serial number if there is one on the pulley ,you could compare it to the chart below.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwalker+turner+slow+speed+pulley.TRS0&_nkw=walker+turner+slow+speed+pulley&_sacat=0

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:49:29

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:50:08

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:55:09

From the Tony Griffiths site , they appear to have a slight taper on the MKI lathe the MKII had timken roller bearings and a more robust headstock..

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 10:35:33

I don`t think there such a thing as raw black rubber ,its latex which is a milky colour.Or dried latex dissolved in solvent To get the black stuff its mixed with carbon black pigment and sulphur plus other things.

I assume you might have been watching that bbc4 programme about plastics????

Your house would stink to helI.  I  have a large container of latex which stinks of ammonia . The ammonia is added to keep it in an emulified state  but shelf life is limited.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 30/08/2017 19:32:18

Well there was a resident blacksmith with forge and all , at Sellafield nuclear Plant when i was serving an apprenticeship in the early 1980`s..

Edited By mark smith 20 on 26/08/2017 12:35:53

When this sort of thing happens, it might be worthwhile for a customer to register as a non secured creditor as soon as possible. Might get something back at least .