Member postings for Roy James 2

Carl.

I have a small Myford M type Lathe with the small 7/8" 9 or 12 TPI thread,( not sure which ) I'm going through the same process as you, requiring a larger chuck, I would think twice if I were you about the 6" chuck, mainly because of the weight you would impose on the smaller mandrel.

A 4" lightweight one will be my choice

Michael G.

What sort of insert are you thinking of,a reducer from a myford thread to the 1" thread on Carl's lathe ?

James

James.

Could you identify your lathe type from the link that Neil gave you, it would help.? Mine has thrust bearings fitted.

james

I am going to the Midlands Exhibition, I would like to buy a 4", 4 jaw adjustable chuck for the old Myford ML2, can anyone recommend one of the many sold by the like of Chronas etc? Would also need a back plate. Is it easy

to fit?

Have to cut the keyway in the shaft of the clutch mod, I have no miller, nor verticle slide, how to do it?

james

John,

Start and run windings are connected behind slip ring ( 4 connections),when motor starts centrifugal switch open

circuits the start winding. No caps anywhere. There is an advert for this type of motor in 1932 in the files of BTH.

( Im19320714 MEE-BTH.jpg ).

james

Ian P.

The purpose of the ring of small holes is to fit balancing weights, as there are a couple on both the slip ring and on the cooling fan, when running it's as sweet as a nut.. This is the first time I have taken it apart since I

fitted it 35 odd years ago, thank you all for the interest you have shown in such a curiosity..

james

Phil.

Sorry I did not post photo of nameplate, it's a B.T.H. Rugby machine. Type BA147. Form DB1 , 1/4 HP,

2.3 amps at 1425 RPM . Continuous rating, usual 230/250v. It has been on the lathe for at least the last 35 yrs.

When I acquired the lathe, its an old Myford ML1/2 (not sure if motor was with it). Had to make counter shaft and motor base for it, at the time I was employed in the steelworks, have not that luxury now, pity, could have made my clutch.

james

More photos in Album, my next job is to put it all back together. ( Murray, one may never ever see one of these again ). The second photo shows the centrifugal switch at the back of the slip rings. By the way I live in Cardiff..

james

Gentlemen

Photos of rotor wound slip ring motor .

Murray,

Will see what I can do, as counter shaft is now in bits. Can give the motor a bit of TLC, years since I last had it apart.

james

Gentlemen,

It is a slip ring wound rotor. no windings on the stator, all start and run windings are on the rotor along with the

centrifugal switch. You are correct John, it is a curiosity, at 1/4HP it's been on the lathe this last 35 years or more.

Plenty of ads for single phase to single phase stuff on the web, I am just testing the water, oh well, many thanks.

I will carry on with my clutch mod.

james

Has any one any information on a single phase 230v wound rotor slip ring motor? Can't seem to find any info on web, mostly 3 phase with slip rings. (would like to try VFD with it if possible )

james

Steve,

Why do you want to find the star point? Do you now want it to be connected in a delta?

james

Thanks to you all,

I have a couple more questions regarding said clutch, can I use copper as a bearing (5) on the counter shaft

pulley, it's only 6" dia, (unit all made many moons ago). I am considering casting the cones in ali, is there a reason

why parts 3&4 are separate, could they be made as one ? ( Bit daunting having to cut threads ).

james

Graeme W, Thank you, overall, quite thick stuff at over 1/8"..

james

Hello all,

I have the drawings for the ML7 clutch from issue 5 1991, which I would like to

adapt to my old, (very old ML2), can someone inform me of the material used

between the two cones ? I have been unable to access the article in question.

james