Member postings for Andy Holdaway

It's probably our over-enthusiastic server at work. It attempts to block pretty much anything!

I'll revisit the page when I get home.

Andy

It's probably me, but I don't see a form at the bottom of the nominations page, only a tiny link to the 'survey solutions' home page.

Is my system blocking it?

Andy

Rod,

This post on Australia's Woodworking forum should help.

Andy

I now drive a Hybrid (automatic) having driven manual cars all my life, and I love it! I do around 800 to 1000 miles a week, and an automatic in traffic is a delight. Motorway fuel consumption is on a par with a normal 2 litre car, but around town I don't use any petrol. You have to modify your driving style somewhat to conserve battery energy, but for me it's a small price to pay. This is a company car, so the benefit in kind tax saving is well worth it.

Andy

p.s. I charge at home as well as at the office when I'm there.

Hacksaw,

On my Elliot the quill has a split outer race angular contact bearing (LDJT25) and a plain ball bearing at the top. The first price I got for the angular contact bearing was frightening (£250). I later found one for £70.

Andy

I use the ball ended type that lights up an LED on contact. It requires a certain 'feel' but I find it very easy to use, and certainly accurate enough for me in combination with a DRO.

Andy

Ian, plenty on Ebay if you search for SAE Connector like this.

Andy

It looks to me like power feed wiring - contactor, two overloads and a switch. If I were you I'd rip it out and start from scratch. It's not a complicated scheme. I'm sure if you search for a generic power feed schematic (Bridgeport?) you'll find something.

George, have you read this thread? BF20 Problems

James, the spindle looks like Goodell Pratt, but the treadle doesn't! May be a combination of various bits.

Andy

Brian, if the two thin black wires are open circuit, they don't go to a thermal cutout (unless it's failed!).

I would tape the ends up and connect it up as the diagram I linked to.

Andy

Brian,

This link shows the wiring for all of the Parvalux motors. Middle diagram at the top of the first page is probably yours, showing two white wires and the thick black. The two thin black wires could be for an internal thermal cutout.

The only sure way of knowing is to measure the resistance across all of the wires.

Andy

I have the same make (although 3 axis) on my milling machine, and have had no problems at all. The manual isn't the best but it's virtually the same as the Sino DRO's of which there are a couple of English re-writes if you Google it.

Andy

Welcome from Stourbridge, Robin. There's a wealth of information on the Forum, good luck with your future projects.

Andy

Mike,

Assuming your headstock is like this, the gears ringed in green shouldn't be engaged unless you are using the saddle or crosslide feed.

Move the lever ringed in red to the central position to disengage the gears.

Andy

Mike, That noise sounds like the change gears 'singing'. My Warco 1327 sounds like that if the gears are not meshed quite right. These are the gears that feed the lead screw. Disengage the drive and it will disappear!

Andy

Welcome to the forum Jim.

For your pictures to show up you will have to create an album ( click on Albums in the green bar at the top of the page, then create album). Put your pictures in the album you have created and then link to them using the camera icon in the editing box.

Sounds like an interesting project!

Andy

You're right, must look closer! The perils of quick searches in an open plan office!!

Tesco do one - World Band Radio

Just realised, this one doesn't have an alarm. close though!

Edited By Andy Holdaway on 13/12/2017 08:47:41

Geoff, I used one of these from Ebay - very easy to use and has performed faultlessly for a couple of years now. Powered from an old plug top type power supply. I didn't even glue the magnet to the spindle, it just holds itself on. I did think it might fly off at high rpm but so far so good.

Andy