Member postings for BOB BLACKSHAW

Hello all, I am recovering from a hip operation [lucky to get it done] so I will not be able to get in the shed for a few weeks or so. I have some Dormer 9, 8, 7 mm slot drills that just need a few licks with a grinding wheel for them to be serviceable. I would not ask this but would try but as said cant do it at the moment.

I have partly made Harrold Hall grinding rest but thought this idea could be a quick grind. 12mm square steel about 15mm long drilled to take the slot drill at a 8 deg angle, a slot and a grub screw to hold . Then put it in the toolpost on the lathe clock it square and have a spacer on the back of the tool holder so when it turned over 180 deg its in the same position. Then true up the grinding wheel on a spigot in the chuck, line it all up and take a few licks off each cutting edge.

As I have said sitting at home thinking, otherwise would not have posted this.

Thanks Bob

A lot of information thanks. My shed is small, very small, six foot by 8 ft max and not much room to move around with all my stuff in it. Looking for a small dehumidifier are .5 lt to 1lt any good or are they just a gimmick..

Bob

Thanks Dave, are you Mr memory man, you should be on stage. Noted this calcium chloride is used in motorhomes just Googled the chemical and this subject is on there forums

Bob

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 02/10/2020 10:25:33

Good Morning all, again thanks for the input on this, we have seemed to come in a circle as Steve used salt on his boat.

I know that temperature difference from cold to warm will produce damp if the rise is to quick for the cold surface to catch up with the rise in temperature.

Example is a concrete garage floor, if it's been very cold over a few days then it turns warm, which our climate does the garage floor is wet. I found it quite funny many years ago when my neighbour had a carpet in his garage, but I have two carpets in mine now as it's a insulation for the slow rise in temperature needed for my MGB.

As stated in my original thread my shed is not to bad , two layers of floor insulation. a blow air heater set a low temperature, and is lined with a foil bubble material, but I've read that salt in a container will take out any moisture in the confined space.

I would like to give it a try, but is a 25kg of white rock salt pure salt ?

Thanks Bob

I have a spare new bathroom fan, this suggested by Martin looks a good idea, thanks.

Bob

Thanks for the replies, I have no problem with leaks or anything like that, its temperature change that could be the problem. I read on the web that if you get two buckets drill holes in one fill with salt and put that in the other bucket water will be absorbed from the atmosphere. That's why I thought of the 25kg bag, but if its not going to work hydraulic fluid looks a good option, surprised about WD 40, I will remove that today. I cover my machines at night for air protection, I have a 1967 MGB in the garage I have a Carcoon but for the last ten years I haven't used it as I cover the car over and put a fan underneath and have had no damp problems, also have a double carpet on the floor. Keeping a constant air temperature seems the answer for me in the shed

Bob

Hello, as its getting near the damp season for the shed I was wondering if white rock salt in a large tray would help with damp. This salt can be brought in 25kg bags at a cheap price, but pure rock salt is quiet expensive. My shed over the years hasn't been to bad as its foil insulated with a blow heater for air circulation when the temperature drops, just added help for dreaded damp . I wipe all exposed surfaces with WD 40 but always a slight rust mark has appeared over winter.

Bob

Seems hard to find naphtalene moth balls as the trend now is cedar, any idea where I can find naphalene as this could be useful for me.

Bob

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 29/09/2020 17:16:30

Hello, I have just recieved a 1.3mm Clarkson slot drill,this will be used on brass only. On the box it states throw away, I understand that its difficult to resharpen a small cutter but I've seen this before on larger slot drills, its HSS I know that I won't throw it away.

Bob

Interesting to see the position of the wick on Johns video, my plan had the wick straight up so a gap from wick to cylinder. I going to dig mine out of the shed in the morning and get it going. I remember I rubbed soft graphite pencil in the cylinder for lubrication.

Bob

I made two of these and got them both working , the problem I found is that it called for cast iron cylinder and piston. With the condensation caused in mine it stopped and when left rust deposits in the cylinder so would not work. I used a stainless steel liner and brass piston and worked for 10 seconds or so.

Bob

As stated don't bother with the cheap face mills, they look the business but the inserts on mine when fitted are all over the place.

Bob

Hello all, I making a 2/3scale AA RAYMAN marine steam engine and now on the cylinder. I've made the cylinder out of what I think is bronze, it's 50mm wide with a 12mm hole through the large lump that I've got and looks like a casting but with a bronze colour.

What material would be best for the valve that will side on the cylinder face.

Another question I have a large bar of 55mm bronze which is copper coloured which is different from other bronzes it's tough and difficult to drill that it will grab,any idea what this could be, it has the wave heat lines on the bar so know it's some type of bronze.

As with the engine it will not get much use, it's just making it and fitting it in a boat,minimal use.

Thanks Bob

Out of interest Ron why are you getting a new lathe, the 918 had a lot of improvements done plus the power drive that you fitted. I have a 918 with a inverter and its quite accurate, it's out of interest why the 918 has been sidelined, and what lathe have you just brought if you don't mind me asking.

Bob

I used a slice of pipe 142mm x13mmx 6.5 mm a lot smaller than 7 inch but looks in proportion.,another option if you fabricate the flywheel .

Bob

Thanks for the advice, I have been using the D bit wrong but luckily my bored holes have come out okay, I have been using it like a boring tool.

Bob

I have started to make a 2/3 scale of A A Rayman high speed marine engine, a call for several small D bits are needed. I have made a few D bits from 10mm to 6mm but wondering if I have been using them correctly, when boring a hole I have the D bit at a slight angle so not parallel to the bored hole so only the cutting edge and not the bar side is touching the hole.

The reason I am asking this is that it is suggested that several D bits from 3/32 to 3/8 at intervals of 1/32 are to be made. Basically my question is this, say a 6mm bored hole, only use a 6mm D bit.

Thanks Bob

An ounce of Old Holborn and a packet of green papers, that`s what I remember in the 60s, then going on holiday with me in the back of the sidecar and mum smoking that stuff, and me breathing it in. That put me of ever thinking of smoking for life, but I prefer a smoker than a vaper. A good tip with the green papers noted here as a stick on setting method, I shall get some.

Bob

A lot of work involved getting the shape with no joints, well done Dave.

Bob

A good job on your lamp, interested in how you made the lamp cover David.

Bob

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2020 09:05:55