Member postings for Matt Stevens 1

So I would have to recommend the Siemens G110 inverter as a cheap VFD, or if you want vector control then go for a Siemens MM440.

Both these inverters are made at Siemens Congleton in the UK where I worked int he R&D department for a good ~13 years. Hi quality and tick all the boxes mentioned by Dave above.

They will not be as cheap as some of the Chinese stuff....but then you get what you pay for. Same scenario with Lathes and anything else....

Thanks for all the comments guys....

For the record, I am based in Ontario Canada.

I have googled the spaced idea - as usual, so simple once someone has pointed it out to you! I will check the runout of my chuck and see how much is to be gained by grinding. I would have to make a fixture for a start to hold my dremel!.

For the collets - again the Drawbar seems the sensible way to go. As Mark Smith pointed out he has a 9a model, that will be the same as my 9c....so I am confident to say I will likely need 3C collets I guess.

The ER collet solution looks interesting, but I guess this route is also more expensive?!

Perhaps I will keep an eye open for a 3C collet set on ebay!

Thanks

So I have a 1939 Model C South Bend. My 3-jaw chuck is not exactly the most accurate and I wonder the best way to improve this.....I have bored it out slightly, but the jaws were not clamped in anyway - mainly because the jaws are hardened and therefore near impossible to drill to fit a clamp to.

Buying a new chuck is very expensive....so maybe I can just change the jaws? Is there anything special I need to be aware of when searching for new jaws?

Collets - My mill has R8 style collets and so I guess it would be great if I could re-use those on my lathe somehow. I have a feeling the lathe might be M3 (would need to check). Has anyone made any converter? Any hints/tips?

I guess I would also need something to screw onto the headstock to pull in the collet?

my only thought about using any type of oil is the smell..... I am hoping to have my Stuart D10 proudly displayed somewhere around the house and want to avoid the wife telling me it has to go away because it smells oily!!!

But thanks for the feedback....

So another beginner question you might say....

When you have finished a model, protection from rusting is normally in the form of oiling for the inside and the graphite yarn on pistons will assist with this. For the outside, paint is normally the order of the day....that is, unless its a surface that is polished and by design is to be free from paint and/or oil. E.G. a Flywheel.

So....how do you prevent those shiny non coated parts like flywheels, valve chests and covers from rusting?

Interested to hear your views.

Thanks

Matt

....but of course it really means you need a set of drills for brass independent to drills for other materials. Unless someone likes sharpening drills every 5 minutes!

So I was making some brass bearings at the weekend, drilling and reaming for the crankshaft....

My debate was - do I drill/ream dry or with some cutting fluid?

Using cutting fluid I found that the drill will clog easily and then it will scream away. So my thoughts was dry was better.

Comments? (I know...I am still learning)

...so just for feedback, I used some scotch double sided tape....very thin, not overly tacky but sufficient to hold the parts together for drilling. The holes where only 2.3mm anyway so not much turning force - but worked out well.!

Of course this strategy would not work on a rough casting, only on machined finishes.

Thanks for the responses all..... What I am trying to do is just hold a few pieces together while I gently vertically drill through them (Cylinder and valve chest for example). The parts will be a close, polished fit so from what everybody has said, I imagine a spot of superglue on each side would work nicely. I guess the part would easily separate when needed and then the glue sand off...

Having said that, I like the idea of double sided tape - I have used this technique for turned small parts before so I might try that!

Thanks again

Hi,

So I am thinking of using Loctite to 'tack' parts (castings) together so I can drill them accurately. I figured this is probably one of the easiest ways to hold parts with complex clamping arrangments....

So - is this a good idea or not? If yes, what Loctite would you use keeping in mind the parts need to be separated later and the Loctite cleaned off.

I was thinking 641???

Thanks

Matt

...also, any feedback on which side the drain cocks should be located on? Exhaust or inlet? Does it not matter?

Thanks guys...brilliant advice!

It sounds like the correct way to start up the engine then is to open the drain valves and let the steam pour through for a minute or so and then close the valves and allow the engine to run. Am I correct?

Hi All,

I am just completing my machining on the cylinders of a Stuart D10 and had a couple of questions about the drain valves....

The drain vales are separate items and do not come with the kit. Can someone confirm the thread type on there?

Also the drawings do not show anything to do with the drain valves in terms of position, which side etc. Now I can guess the location as there is a 'boss' on the castings both top and bottom, left and right hand sides....however I wanted to check to see if there is any advice on the positioning. For example - I assume the drain valves should all be on the same side from a cosmetic point of view? What about which side of the cylinder? exhaust side or steam inlet side? Should the drain valve be positioned in the middle of the casted boss on the side or is there a risk that it clashes with anything like the end caps or piston movement for that matter? Maybe they need to be as low as possible such to drain the maximum amount of trapped fluid??? What exactly does the top drain valve drain....its at the top of the cylinder?

What are the drain valves actually for?! Maybe a stupid question - I am guessing the obvious is condensed water in the cylinder once steam has been shut off and the engine has cooled?

Thanks

Matt

Hi Stewart,

I am based at Peterborough in Ontario.

Given the amount of snow you have - I am guessing you could be nearby!

Regards

Matt

Anyone any idea where I can buy silver solder from in Canada? I am not finding anything on google....maybe I have to import it from the UK???

Thanks

Hi,

Well I was thinking of polishing the flywheel and the valve chest. I wasn't going to take away the casting roughness as I quite like that.

I was however considering a course sanding of the machined parts to remove any milling marks - but I would not polish the majority of the parts to a shine, just think the flywheel and valve chest as mentioned above.

Thanks

Matt

Hi All,

Just confirming my thoughts....

To polish some stuart castings to a mirror finish, I assume I would use a wet and dry style paper to about 800-grit?

- What stages would you use for polishing a machined part? 150-grit and then 800-grit ok...maybe a step inbetween or no need?

- Would you use any kind of oil on the 800-grit paper to stop clogging? Any oil.....e.g a cutting/tapping oil ok?

Thanks

Matt

So - now I am starting to get my machines together, I wanted to finish off my workshop once only and do it right! I have the opportunity to change the floors/walls or whatever to suit.

The workshop is in a basement with a concrete floor and wooden walls with drywall covering.

What should I do with the floor? I could leave it as is....paint it with 'garage floor paint' or there is some flooring that they use in car showrooms which is expensive. Other options? I am just thinking that with metal chips around, painting might be the better option?

Lighting....what style lighting is best over a lathe/mill etc? I am thinking to suspend fluorescent lighting but is this a good idea with the 60Hz flicker possibility? Is it the right kind of light?

Advice before spending my money would be appreciated.

Thanks

Great Thanks all....think I might go for it!

Regards

Matt

So what I am hearing is that providing the Logan over here is in as good a shape as the pictures suggest....and that it has change wheels, then its a good buy???

I might check with Logan US for spares availability first.

Thanks

P.S. Bandersnatch....I get first dibs!!