Member postings for jann west

You can use the public whois service to query the registration details of the domain name - postoffice-fees.com

It was first registered within the last week.

It is, for this and many other reasons, certainly a scam!

Interesting question is how the scammer got your details and knew you had a package en-route! There are various possible answers to that question which range from mildly to quite concerning.

Related to the question ... re: the galvanic issue - when using (stainless) steel bolts or rivets in aluminium in a scenario where galvanic corrosion is an environmental certainty (e.g. attaching anything to an aluminium mast on an ocean-going yacht) one typically liberally applies a special paste (grease) on all mating surfaces to inhibit the galvanic corrosion ... I recall it was called the "yellow paste" but google seems to think it is sold under the name "duralac"

Would someone be so kind as to private-mail me a link to the original video which generated so much discussion - just so I can see what generated the big discussion ... thanks - Jann

I've suggested this before ... https://archive.org/details/machineshopprojectsbysouthbendlatheworks

It's sad! Generally speaking ... Apparently (injury/negligence/etc.) insurance for metalwork training schools is very expensive, and the consumables are also expensive (whoops - someone forgot to turn off the argon on a welder and the college's entire tank leaked out overnight ... happened at CNWL the year I was there ... oops!) ... far easier and more profitable to teach courses in "digital marketing" etc.

some people find the following to be helpful as a starting point for feeds and speeds: **LINK**

you use a ruler, to indicate the correct speed, like so: **LINK**

Also a possibility ... that it was meant to hold two different taps (e.g. a 1st tap and a finishing tap) and the process line was that each equally spaced hole had two tapping functions performed in sequence.

manual: **LINK**

as everyone has already said, its a tool retraction issue, and completely expected. You often get the same effect when turning. The various solutions provided are all good ... I hadn't thought of pressing on the toolpost when retracting (which is quite clever ... and means you don't need to fiddle with your cross slide settings ... which is always annoying).

Two solutions not mentioned ... JA Radcliff designed a retractable tool holder, which solves this problem when screwcutting ... and would also be suitable in this circumstance if you inverted the tool and cut on the back face of the hole (which may also probably provide an improved finish).

Alternatively the use of a DRO makes the retracting and unretraction a little less fiddly than working with dials ... and would be worthwhile if this was a frequent activity.

Welding seems a poor idea ... for all the reasons mentioned above. Inserting a plug or threaded rod with loctite and milling it flush seems a better idea. If you absolutely must melt metal, you might have more luck with silver solder or brazing, perhaps?

Interestingly ex UK MOD container workshops are available to purchase - perhaps the photo's might provide some inspiration:

**LINK**

difficult to say with the link removed ... but ... if the crossslide is a degree off perpendicular it'll break parting tips as soon as a certain amount of infeed is made ... ask me how I know

You should buy a MT1 - ER 16 or 20 collet chuck - they are sold on ebay-UK and banggood according to my quick google. You will need to manufacture a drawbar - some threaded bar, nuts, and appropriate washers will do the job if you cant be bothered making it pretty!

Workholding should be done with a milling slide mounted on your cross slide - which will give you adjustment in both x and y - again available from the usual suspects.

A good finish will be achieved with a consistent feed rate - if your lathe doesn't have power cross-feed you can make an adapter for your little crossfeed windy thing and a variable speed battery powered screwdriver/drill to achieve consistency.

Take small light cuts, go slowly, and use lubricant.

Don''t be tempted to put the milling cutter in your 3 jaw or a drill chuck! If you don't know what you are doing you will likely screw up the workpiece or the endmill or both.

I moved the equivalent chester mill in a station wagon (estate) lying on its back/column! Also a C6b lathe and a small surface grinder of equivalent hobby capacity at different times and single handed. The trick was to go slowly, have lots of time, and be prepared to drop it to the ground (gently and re-rig if it's not quite right.

same base unit! price, paint, level of finish, accessories, and motor might vary. Accessories are interchangeable. If you're in the market buy the one from Arc!

If your casting is ali, and small-ish, then you will probably find that building up with (TIG) won't be the experience you expect from steel.

Ali welding on small parts doesn't go so well due to the thermal transfer issues - namely aluminium transfers heat too well - and castings tend to be a little disappointing on the material front. YMMV

You would probably do well considering some form of other solution - if it's out of center perhaps you could sleeve it and re-bore ...

I know it seems logical to just overfill with ali and fix from there - but even (really) good ali welders struggle with that ... due to the nature of the material.

I've been there and got the t-shirt ... and watched much better ali welders and I fail in similar circumstances.

If your insurance won't allow oa welding (because of acetylene) you can always try oxy propane as a fuel ... not quite as hot ... but still pretty hot for soldering and brazing. Also you could try jewelers micro tig welding systems. Welding and soldering is about heat management (and the effects of entropy so fiddily jibs like yours may benefit from a hybrid solution ... eg holding the body in a clamp, applying heat from a flame two or three at tactical points near the weld site to raise general temperatures in the vicinity, then using intense localised heat for the actual welding function. If you don't have 9 hands then tactical clamps can hold gas torches.

When you ask a question like this it is only polite to offer to buy popcorn !

South Bend produced an entire book of them, which I have linked to before: **LINK**

As much as you might not find a (soft faced) hammer interesting, it offers a chance to practice marking out, turnng, facing, taper turning between centers, knurling, screw cutting, spotting, drilling (boring? depending on size) and internal screw cutting. The resultant object can further be beautified through the use of various metals with different finishes, and through graving.

A finely finished hammer is something which can be simultaneously beautiful, useful, and a demonstration of an uncommon and useful skill which few today possess. I'd go so far to say that you are not a "real" machinist unless you have made your own machinist's hammer.

As the filter is to be replaced it can be destroyed ... i have previously hammered a screwdriver through an inaccessible filter to aid in purchase and hammered it gently to apply turning force . Ymmv