Member postings for AJW

On my ml7 I use a Tecalemit gun, part number GB2787. Think they date from late 50's

It's relatively small so requires more frequent filling but works well pumping oil right through the cross slide/bed ways and the tailstock quill.

Highly recommended!

Alan

I last saw this on demo at AllyPally and it looked fantastic, the guy even let me have a go, very impressed but I remember it cost about £40 do a 3ft length - the roll it was on must have cost a fortune.

Alan

Ah, that's obviously where it went wrong, I used (what I have) a diamond impregnated dresser which looks like miniscule diamonds set in a mild steel rod.

Have used this for dressing wheels over the years and appears to work - but not for this application!

Alan

Well I got my dressed white point wheel going on the slowly rotating idler assembly, absolutely useless, didn't remove anything worthwhile.

Had a dig around and found a carbide burr the I bought at Ally Pally, unbelievably coarse and sharp but it worked a treat! Finishing off with some fresh 120 wet/dry paper used dry.

Alan

Oh sorry guys! If all else fails - read the manual!

Alan

I have my lathe and mill powered with 3 phase motors controlled with 3 phase vfd units and the work well.

However while ordering a stack of components from rs on-line I stumbled across this single phase vfd (stock number 7858522) it is one of a range they supply.

Didn't realise single phase controllers were available - could be useful!

Alan

Interesting that you use white mounted points as it is a white that I have dressed in preparation! Diameter not that critical (it's only an intermediate wheel) as long as it fits it's mounting frame I am more interested in replicating the original tyre shape and ensuring it runs true.

Alan

Thanks once again, it is a good O ring, no flash but I need to reduce its diameter by taking a couple of mm off to enable it to rotate in it's frame support and to give it a true running surface.

It's complicated by the addition of a soft silicone rubber assembly which is used for damping vibration transfer. Good thought with the freezer spray, especially as I have a couple!

Alan

Thanks, the wheel I have prepared is about 60 grit I might have a coarser one to try. I was thinking of putting it in the freezer but as there is not a lot of mass I reckon it would warm up quickly.

I feel my problem might be melting the surface so will have to experiment slowly!

Alan

I have made myself a rubber edged idler wheel for a record turntable. The actual rubber grippy part is a 65mm diameter O ring of 5mm section, this afternoon I stuck with araldite this onto a grooved aluminium pulley.

I am 'hoping' that tomorrow when it's dry I can mount it between centre's and using my toolpost mounted die grinder I can true up and shape the rubber O ring!

I have trued up a new wheel for the job and it feels quite keen, as though it will cut.

Any useful tips or experiences which might come in handy?

Alan

On my ml7 I have tapped 3/8 plates underneath the feet, to these I have mounted solid nylon rollers. When the bolts are screws down it allows the lathes weight to be taken on the bolt end and levelled. When unscrew the rollers are then taking the lathe allowing it to be moved (carefully!)

My lathe is quite a lump as I have a motorised VMD fitted to the rear of the bed and a 10mm plate between bed and cabinet.

Only moved it a couple of times since I fitted bthem but it does allow the lathe to be moved from the wall for cleaning etc.

Alan

On my flypress I used an old 3 jaw chuck nipped up on the stub, worked well enough!

Alan

Been going for decades!

It's a family thing for us, now my Dad is no longer with us I still go with my son.

I do wonder how the expanding 'emission zone' will affect its future? I can imagine it could be the last straw for some traders not willing to fork up another charge in addition to the already expensive weekend.

Alan

Oh dear! First part of the instructions of stuff I have bought recently usually advise on how to dispose of it!

Alan

Manfred, sorry I've only just seen your post.

Not sure where I located my original drawings! but having a quick look at the engine the crank webs measure 3/8 by 3/4.

I also upped the bearing diameters to 1/2

Hope this helps?

Alan

Britain made itself Gt Britain with Imperial units, ever since we've been Metric it's been downhill!

Alan

I always use my chain wrench, works every time and even though I smear oil on the seal sometimes they still end up tight.

If the can gets crushed/destroyed it's not a problem as it's being replaced and I would second the caution regarding dislodged filter innards be on the loose!

Alan

Looks a nice example!

Alan

Thanks for your replies.

I have attempted to drill (slowly) and it would appear to work harden very quickly.

The existing holes present would appear to have been punched, shall have another attempt with a shorter drill this time as I broke the first!.

If it isn't austenitic s/s and I heated it to those high temperatures followed by a quench could that turn it harder/more brittle?

Alan

I need to drill some 1mm holes in a stainless steel watch bracelet clasp, exact grade unknown but of Russian origin.

Didn't get very far with the first hole and wondered if it can be annealed? and thought I'd ask before turning it all black! (although it could be cleaned up)

Alan