Member postings for AJW

Had this no 2 live centre for years, its compact accurate and runs smoothly but of late it has started to lose its grease. I am assuming an O ring has given up the ghost.

Trouble is I am unsure how it comes apart? The end cap will unscrew revealing an INA bearing but nothing else is obvious.

Any ideas?

Alan

I had a look on the saw and base and couldn't find any reference to China so scrutinized the box, nothing except on the bottom - Made in China! Almost as though it was trying to be hidden!

Anyway been using it again today and it's been doing a grand job - square and effortless on some 2 in by 1/2 in steel. I am aware the vice gets criticism but apart from the jaws being a distance from the blade it does a good job. I turned the rear jaw around so it's now about 1/8 from the blade and I will make a drop on blade for the moving jaw taking that closer to the blade, no big deal I thought.

All in all very pleased with it for £115 with 3 year warranty!

Alan

Ordered one of these a couple of weeks ago and I think my order got lost, didn't think I was going to get it at all as it then went out if stock!

It finally turned up and have done the first cuts with it today. Must admit to being quite impressed. Set the angle cut feature up to cut at 90 degree using a square and the results on a piece of inch square were good with a good clean cut using one of the two blades supplied (14tpi), it did it quite quietly and quickly.

Recommended, especially as it fits on my rack and can be pulled out for immediate use!

Alan

Just fitted a new (eclipse) blade the 'wrong' way round and in use I'm inclined to think less force was used on the pulling/stroke cut?

Seems alien but will continue with the trial.

Alan

Perhaps I'm expecting too much? The blades I have are all old stock and are probably 30+ years old so pre date the cheap influx of 'pound shop' type product.

Having had a bit of a search and hoping to find something like the bimetal larger blades where we have a hss cutting edge but all I could find was hardened and tempered carbon steel so have gone for a pack of bahco ones and will see how they go!

Alan

Thanks guys, I do try and take it steady when sawing although I didn't realise Bahco made saw blades, I've always been impressed with their spanners so will have a search for saw blades.

Alan

For sawing most metals I use a 12 inch hacksaw fitted with usually a 24 you blade. I've cut loads with the current blade including lots of 2 inch bar - the blades been in the saw for months.

I also at times use a junior hacksaw fitted with an eclipse blade and am always disappointed at how long it lasts.

Can anybody recommend a make that will last better?

Alan

Interesting post as I have only just ordered the bandsaw from Aldi which could be arriving today.

Viewing reports/reviews of this and similar I have basically assumed that the device will need some 'fettling' to allow it to produce what I'm after. These things are made down to a price but I think the engineer in us expects things to be right.

Nearly bought one a while back but resisted although since then I can't believe how much hack sawing I have been tackling!

Alan

I have an ITT ex pump motor in as new condition which I was planning on fitting with a buffing pigtail but I would prefer it if it rotated in the opposite direction!

It's a single phase .55kw motor with a run winding and a start winding with a capacitor in series.

Normally the start winding connections would be reversed to alter direction but there's only 3 wires coming out of the motor casing as one wire is a common for both windings, so reversal can't be performed in it's junction box.

Do the panel think the joining of the two windings is probably going to be inaccessible if I open the case up?

Alan

Not a glove wearer but have done so in the last few days! Thinsulate (3M) - highly recommended!

The pair I have look like normal woollen gloves - and because of that not very effective but they are the best most effective gloves I've ever had.

Don't remember them being expensive either.

Alan

Once again thanks for your replies.

The incoming mains is through copper pipe which is soldered into the stopcock, one close bend takes it to the water meter and then to another, working stopcock. All under the sink with the seized stopcock at plinth height. All very compact and located close to the wall at the back of the cabinet!

The valve did work 40 years ago and as you say was always backed off half a turn from fully on, it was also 'excersised' frequently to keep it moving but over the years it gradually got tighter.

I realise lubricant is not the thing to inject into a valve from a health point if view but I am sure there are many if us who would have tried similar?

So it's not in a 'must have working' situation but I would prefer to have it functional, as you have suggested it might be worth a call to the water company.

Alan

Thanks for your replies.

Wise thoughts on being able to isolate the supply!

I have a long handled stopcock key that my Dad made but although it's probably three and a half feet long I couldn't even find the valve head with it - it's about 4 1/2 ft below pavement level and full of water! and no doubt silt.

Not sure of the size of the square, (3/4?)

If it's considered viable I will get hold of or make a suitable key, it's not been operated since I've lived here, 45 years.

Alan

Our incoming mains water supply is fitted with the original house build stopcock, soldered into the pipework it is immovable we still have a means of turning the supply off which works ok and is after the faulty one.

I would like to be able to use it and in the past have tried to introduce lubricant by removing the gland nut and applying blowlamp heat on the body, neither of which worked.

Access to the valve is not good as is just above the base of a kitchen cabinet otherwise I would consider freezing and removing the valve body for attention.

Anyone had a successful result in freeing a seized valve?

Alan

Madness! I needed some wheels to mount on a chassis to move a 1940 JAP engine around and found a set of 4 skateboard wheels with 8 abec 7 ball races including post for just over a tenner!

Most impressed with the wheels and bearings, don't know how they can make them for that.

Perhaps the upgraded bearings are to a tighter tolerance and run smoother? can't imagine it can make that much difference.

Alan

Don't know that name (or the area very well!) but my Dad would buy his motorcycles from 'Wag Bennett' a motorcycle dealer on the A13 in Barking although it might have come under Dagenham.

I think it has gone now but I know one of the bikes my Dad bought he sold after 250 miles as he decided he didn't like it! I think he mainly had BSA machines.

I've found out since that Wag Bennett (who also ran a gym) was responsible for discovering Arnold Schwarzenegger and training him up to Mr Universe level!

Alan

Came home from holiday a few years ago and one of the first jobs is usually fire up the boiler for some hot water - it didn't work

Boilers in the loft so up I go possibly thinking it needs resetting, it didn't. Scratching my head I now start dismantling it to find out why it won't light and while I'm inside thought I'd give the heat exchanger a brush and hoover up. Checked the ignition unit etc.

Then I had a memory cell spring to life - I'd turned the gas supply off!

Worked a treat after that.

Alan

Success! I had the old short reach plug on which I turned the body down to less than the thread root diameter, where upon it fell apart!

But no problem, I ground a cutting edge on the end and used one of those 'easy out' screw removers to drive it into the thread, picked out what I could with a dental type device and eventually managed to work the short stub through the head casting.

All because someone had fitted the wrong plug, but got there in the end.

Alan

Must admit if was going to try anything it could be citric acid? No science behind that just wondering!

This Villiers engine is not from a motorcycle it's a model 25HS direct coupled to a 2kw generator, dates from 1964. It has been rebored but looks like it's not done much running since as the bores hone marks are clearly visible.

I'm enjoying the project, nicely made engine.

Alan

Thanks guys, it is an alloy head (seems very soft!) I did start picking it out but thought there must be something to dissolve/loosen it.

I shall set to and get picking and use my modified plug!

Alan

I'm working on an old Villiers engine which has been running with an incorrect spark plug, it was too short on reach.

This has resulted in the threads getting carboned up and not accepting the correct longer threaded plug. I have turned up the old short plug to be used as a 'sort of' tap to clear the thread, and have applied plus gas in the hope that it will soften the deposit but wondered whether I might be better using something else?

It's a big plug with an 18mm thread and didn't want to purchase a tap purely for just clearing the carbon!

Alan