Here is a list of all the postings Dave Halford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Brian's 1" Minnie Traction Engine |
08/05/2023 19:08:44 |
Some only work on them for an hour per week or less, you might work 8 hours days on it. The drawings are identical to the book, but the book has better detail size info in hidden in the wording. Some of the GM castings available are steel in the book. The brake drum has the biggest ratchet you ever did see. A lot of Minnie is plate-work and riveting, You'll note that Brian still has all his wheel rivets to do and some of the smokebox ones are missing too
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Thread: Ideas for rekindling the love |
06/05/2023 17:33:01 |
Posted by Andrew Evans on 06/05/2023 12:04:37:
Hopefully I can get some great suggestions here. I am struggling to get back the enthusiasm I had for model engineering a few years ago. I was really enjoying it and made a number of things, including a couple of simple steam engines, some tooling and a Wyvern IC engine. I have a well equipped workshop with 5.5 inch lathe and CNC milling machine. After I made the Wyvern I couldn't get it to run and got a bit frustrated and since then have struggled to get back into it and keep getting sidetracked onto other projects. This seems like a real shame since I have such a nice workshop which is now not being used. What I am hoping for are some suggestions for a project that is going to rekindle the enthusiasm. Something worthwhile but not so complex and time consuming. Can anyone help ? Andy Hi Andy Valve timing, compression, spark timing and fuel. Any one of those will stop it Fix the Wyvern and slay that particular dragon. |
06/05/2023 17:14:47 |
Posted by Baz on 06/05/2023 16:02:28:
Andy I am in a similar position, Really enthusiastic until Covid hit and due to me and wife both being classed as vulnerable we kept hidden away only going out when absolutely necessary, now I find that I have no enthusiasm for the workshop and as loco needs hydraulic and steam test I cannot run the loco, cannot even be bothered to raise steam at home to check it over, also used to be fairly keen caravanner but since Covid van has not left the drive, we have booked a pitch in West Country for a week but I have lost all confidence for towing, never used to bother me but now I dread it. Don’t know what’s causing it but I know a lot of people are experiencing similar problems. Baz, If it's a new place you have booked Street View is your friend for turning point landmarks. I say that because my pet fear is driving past and not being able to turn round. Edited By Dave Halford on 06/05/2023 17:34:21 |
Thread: Mill vice |
06/05/2023 17:01:47 |
More to the point, can you get your choice of vice fixed jaw sufficiently under the cutter before the vice runs into the column to be worthwhile. I had to mill the rear gutter off my 3" (same as Jason's) to fit a Centec2A. Lucky for me the 4" that I went shopping for was out of stock, a 4" is also taller Warco suggests the 80mm for yours and the wm16, the 100mm shows up for the WM18 as an additional option. Edited By Dave Halford on 06/05/2023 17:03:50 |
Thread: Bright steel |
03/05/2023 23:53:27 |
Posted by JasonB on 03/05/2023 19:49:46:
Not sure what would imply that the ones I made at school were bright mild steel and still going strong. I made some pliers at school, case hardened jaws and 1/8" handles with a twist near the jaws, they looked great , but boy did they bend . |
Thread: Electrics Problem - Lathe |
03/05/2023 23:45:24 |
Maybe, we know the Cap was changed, the contacts are badly burnt and there's a chance of winding damage. I wouldn't spend money on it till I knew it wasn't drawing excess current. |
03/05/2023 20:16:23 |
Any plating must be well zapped by now. One contact goes inside the other so you need to clean inside as well. Brass brush? |
Thread: Bright steel |
03/05/2023 19:33:47 |
Posted by Stephen Follows on 03/05/2023 17:28:49:
I have bought some bright steel to make tool makers clamps. The above would imply not mild steel, it's a bit bendy, did you tell the supplier what it was for? |
Thread: Electrics Problem - Lathe |
03/05/2023 16:28:01 |
Nasty flash burns. I don't think anything is missing, back in the day cars points used to have a similar setup to reduce arcing. Can you clean the two contacts? |
Thread: Major? Spindle play |
02/05/2023 16:25:53 |
Claims a 1.26" hole through the spindle so must have gears. Don't let your dog chew parts of your lathe anymore it invalidates your warranty. |
Thread: Options for mini lathe extended cross slide screw? |
02/05/2023 16:06:40 |
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 02/05/2023 12:02:11:
Same issue arises with some industrial lathes. As above be creative with the tool positioning:
Andrew Same as Andrew, I can turn 5" on a 5" lathe only by using a boring bar on the outside. You will put a large amount of leverage on the carriage. Don't forget that budget Mini Lathe control boards are not tolerant of overloads |
Thread: Soundproofing my 3D Printer |
30/04/2023 17:13:09 |
Open cell Foam line the inside of the box. |
Thread: Electrics Problem - Lathe |
29/04/2023 14:16:54 |
Posted by Justin Thyme on 29/04/2023 11:10:29:
the one that is on is 160µF could that be an issue ? When the motor starts I hear a click as it picks up speed, and also hear it at similar RPM as it is slowing down after switching off - I guess this is the centrifugal switch ? Yes, but it may not be working all the time and clicking doesn't mean it's conducting power as SOD says. With that coil dead the motor should sit there and just hum to it's self. No idea why it tries to run unless the start winding is shorting neutral somewhere.
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Thread: Leak from pressure pump/nut |
29/04/2023 11:27:58 |
Take the pump unit out and see. |
29/04/2023 11:12:42 |
They meant the pump non return valve |
Thread: Electrics Problem - Lathe |
29/04/2023 10:48:01 |
The Cap size is on the motor plate in box C1 100 According to your drawing the start winding is open cct. Check the centrifugal switch inside the motor end cover is free to move and the contacts make |
28/04/2023 16:14:14 |
Posted by Justin Thyme on 28/04/2023 00:03:31:
Had the For/Rev switch off today, sorted the wires so that it now runs in the correct direction, switch works well, can't find any eath leakages! But it still trips the fuse in the clockwise rotation, and slow to get to speed in reverse. Will try and get some readings from the windings the morrow and report back.
it's S1 rated which is continuous and it should go like that all day. Class B says the windings can be 130C and they probably are, which means it can double as workshop heater. I'm betting it draws more than the plated 4A, though why it only pops in one direction with the belt off I have no idea. |
Thread: Worth it? |
28/04/2023 10:00:38 |
Getting this thread back on track. I wonder if these come from the same place the Warco-myford copy did with the Myford name added. As a lot of these are destined for sheds and electronics don't like damp I get the belt speed change remaining as is. But, why keep the 1930's bed design? Are prismatic ways so much more expensive? |
28/04/2023 09:44:13 |
Posted by Chris Crew on 28/04/2023 07:08:03:
The 'real' Myford in Beeston always sold their lathes in the most basic and un-equipped format but this was the way British companies sold their products and probably one of the main reasons foreign competition wiped them out. I bought an ML7R in 1978 for £550 and when it arrived it was totally useless. They sold it to me as a screw-cutting lathe but it didn't even come with a thread dial indicator let alone a motor and switchgear. It cost me almost as much again to get the lathe operational. Warco et.al., on the other hand, began selling lathes that came with almost everything you needed to 'plug and play' so no wonder they succeeded. I shouldn't have been so surprised because about 1971 I was going to buy the cheapest version of a new Mini which in those days was supposed to be £525 on the road. As I was discussing the specification with the BMC dealer, colour, trim etc., I can recall being absolutely astounded when he asked if I would like it to come with a heater! At extra cost, of course, and this was at a time when the Japanese were hitting the market with Datsun cars that came with heaters and radios as standard. It had never entered my head that, especially in the British climate, new cars did not come with a heater, you had to specify one. Strangely enough, there are no British mass car producers or lathe manufacturers around these days. Edited By Chris Crew on 28/04/2023 07:08:29 We shouldn't forget that for most of the 60's Mini was sold at a loss, so they needed to claw back cash somewhere plus the 500 odd strikes in the 70's. The Americans started bone basic cars we just followed as they must have known better We don't see Datsuns anymore as the last ones rusted so badly the engines fell out whilst still moving and even the Austin 1100 rust bucket didn't do that. Never saw a Datsun in the scrapyard though. A quick rebrand to Nissan and better steel and paint followed. Ying and Yang and all that.
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28/04/2023 09:25:33 |
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 28/04/2023 08:54:08:
Chris, nothing strange at all about that ! I remember when the first Honda bikes appeared in England and were regarded as trash. One of the motorcycle mags did a report on them in one issue. The tester said that while the bikes were "a bit rough around the edges", he had a feeling that they were here to stay and that English makers needed to wake up and take notice. They never did, and the rest is history. Cars, machine tools ect, went the same way. I dont recall the last time I saw an English bike, motor or otherwise on the road and any time I see machines on building sites, none of them are Made in England. Seems like someone got their sums wrong ! How many Hobby users could afford that kind of money ? The very first were just pressed tin, but then came the CB160 which made BSA C15 and Triumph Tiger cub look like jokes. Just don't look at the big yellow things or the new Triumphs and Nortons. |
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