Member postings for Dave Halford

The only UK road steam engine licence is if you want to drive a steam roller. Drive meaning look after the boiler as that the bit that blows up, so somewhat cart before the horse for stationary engines?

Careful, budget bearings can be mild steel, good for garden windmills, but not much else.

Did you test the noise with the leadscrew turning or not? The gearbox can double the racket.

Cellulose thinners will remove enamel paints.

Some rivets might be glued on

Hi George,

You will feel the heat if you touch the headstock bearing area, luke warm is OK.

Likewise put your hand on the motor casing after it stops it's self. If it's as hot as your CH radiators it may be that a temperature cut-out in the motor end casing operating trying to protect the windings. If it does this off load it's usually the field coils shorting making the motor draw more current than it should. This means you need a new motor

If I turn off all the rads both ends in my 4 bed house I get less than two buckets of water out. I just pour it back in via the feed tank.

It was shipped in it's holder which broke after one bolt out of four fell out securing to the truck. Caused by road corrugations I guess.

Apparently too hot to pickup as all they have done is cordon it off

1970's copper was very poor, even phone cables went over to ali

Odd, I have lived in 2 houses with a similar system and they never needed a flow restrictor to work properly, even with 10mm piping on the CH side.

Being well versed in Ch systems you have already manually set the Y valve lever to the manual position, which gives you both CH and HW at the same time (till the valve gets energised again by the controller) and found the CH still runs poorly.

This being the case loosen a rad bleed valve downstairs, if the water is as black as engine oil you may have a system full of rust and that's why the CH flow is poor. Rust has a nasty habit of blocking the lowest pipe run.

BTW as you're new to the house, when you drain the CH down do check the system has refilled, the ball valve may have stopped working and dry boilers aren't funny.

Don't forget crimping the pipe will try to shorten it which might give you a leak.

I think it might be history.

When you designed a DRO back in the day on paper, at a drawing board XYZ suited a Mill, graph layout for the table and the alphabet. Later when making a cheaper one for a lathe it looks a little silly to delete the centre display and also harder to take the circuitry out.

Ask TIG at the track that you wish to run on.

On centre is fine till you cut thin stuff, then the disc disappears faster than it needs to.

What No (insert Chad)

'three pin reset'. for AC or card re-seated

most damning of all FNF fault not found.

Bear in mind that the distance between centres quoted by all suppliers does not include the three jaw chuck so you will loose around 75mm that end and for drilling from the tailstock you loose drill length and chuck at that end as well.

No

It's different levelling or lathes on ships wouldn't work

Looking at Michael's link, the seal depends on the lid engaging with the back of the airbox and the foam being thick enough to fill the gap.

If one of the plastic pegs has snapped off the lid or the slot has split there will be a gap.

Modern engines may refuse to run if the air supply does not fall with in the specs. Limp mode isn't fun.

Your real problem is that the water will probably do it again. Are you sure it hasn't got there from a big water splash?

A lot of modern cars have a very low air inlet behind the bumper.

And me, moving coil clamp meter and watch that motor start-up surge.

As we've recently seen Michael believes everything that boxes and adverts tell him.

If there is a nut to tighten the horizontal arbor cutter you may find reverse just a little irritating

Just don't run it without clearing the oilways, Mineral oil left that long changes to a sticky mess in small spaces that works better as a glue.

Or Nickel plate?