Member postings for Dave Halford

He may have decimal point issues.

RDG does what Kwil suggests it stops bidding etc when stock is weeks away, but keeps the stuff visible.

Unlikely to run with a stub exhaust, about a foot of pipe on the exhaust port might help.

The tank should be above the head.

last years lawn mower fuel might not be any good

You can choke it by partially blocking the carb inlet with your palm.

If it still wont go

remove the plug if it's dripping wet wave it in the blowlamp flame till the secondary 'candle flame' stops and try again. If it gets very wet very quick it might be an alchohol burner.

while the plug is out stick your finger / thumb over the hole and crank it over on your starter. it should blow the digit off with a nice phutt.

if it doesn't check the rockers / pushrods have some rattle in them on the firing stroke.

If they have the rings could be stuck or the valve seats are stuffed

If the plug is dry and it phutts dribble a couple of drops straight down the plug hole and try it again.

Sometimes these adds are just that, adds with a contact number, no intention to sell at that price just a cash in hand sensible price - withdraw from sale and no fees to pay.

You can spot them later due to being withdrawn and a pathetic excuse given

£300 lathes don't usually look like that.

Less paint, lots more rust, chunks missing from castings.

pleas money send up front now then deliver when I trawler docks.

I really hope this is a genuine offer to sell, you'll know if you do get an address it's OK.

Sharpening ball end cutters?

Maurice is correct, gun wash has quite a lot of water in it, whereas non bloom thinners has next to none, hence the tin lasting years. I have some 10 years old, the tin is fine.

BTW never, ever use gun wash to save money or avoid a trip to buy more proper thinners. the water content gets trapped in the paint and even left several warm days and don't think primer being porous means it can't get trapped, it does.

Finish looks good till the first frost when the micro blisters appear.

Sorry DAG got to correct you.

It's only 4 bolts and you can't do under drive with out a longer shaft with the 3 speed pulley sticking out the back unsupported one end with the belt blocking the vertical travel lever

Lots you can do with this.

1. strip, clean well and use as is - the bearings will be full of dried 50 year old grease - they all are.
2. strip clean and use the arbour and drive to revive a larger 2A or 2B with a missing/knackered gearbox (they are out there.) Convert the remainder to a cutter grinder.

It will make a much better gear cutter than anything from the ROC

It has the pulley for a vertical head, wonder where that's been slung?

All it needs is bolting to a bench, the base is note strictly necessary it just catches the split oil and grease.

Um, indeed read the reviews especially the old ones, everything you need to know is there

Weighs 100lbs odd and 3foot high

For drilling metal - got to be NO due alloy castings and thin pillar things will bend, holes wont be 90 deg as the table deflects - needs to be iron and weigh 150lbs etc etc.

Wood only - fill your boots you'll want the height it offers not sure why it needs 16 speeds. when 5 would do.

left over engine oil brushed on the cutter stopped ali sticking to my 3" da 3/8 horizontal cutter in my Centec2A-, you really need to brush the swarf away though, makes quite a mess if you don't.

Same thing worked for the Dovetail cutter except swarf under the cutter is harder to keep away.

BTW I thought WD40 was mostly paraffin anyway.

There are several 'brands' of this grinder, just with different badges and black plastic or grey.

Don't pay more than 50 something for it.

Don't force it - people on here have complained about the wheel not lasting.

Personally, I have the Holzmann version because they sell them 10 miles from me.

I thinks it's fine, but I only use a light touch as there's no cooling method, rather than shove it in like my life depends on the fastest sharpened drill ever.

It's a wonderfull bargain, you can use it for one and a half minutes in every 10. if you buy seven you can get air for just over10 minutes constant before you can start the cycle over again.

BTW it runs till you switch it off or it melts which ever comes sooner.

Seriously it's just meant for push bike tyres or a paper weight.

Do some research first, they tend to be difficult to repair

accidental ventilation ? always thought the lack of paint was deliberate

Centec2's are a bit basic, you'll note on the GM link someone has fitted a cheapy digital readout to use the bolts that lock the height.

Many have been modified with various forms of screw jacks under the knee. yours is clearly original.

On the plus side gearing via belts is nice and quiet.

WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE regs? they may well have to dispose of them same as batteries if you sell them.

You can get small square section brass tube from model shops, leastways you used to be able to.

Have you considered picture frame glass/

To be fair you only need to check the efficiency figures to spot modern speakers are not very sensitive, (trouble is you have to buy them to read the little leaflet) But then back in the day watts was quoted as RMS, nowadays it's PMPO so 20 old watts equals 50 new watts. Put the two together and these days you need massive amp to get the same volume.

Now that's progress I just don't get.

My poor little Leak 3200 @50W will run modern Eltax speakers, but upstairs sounds a bit quiet, whereas my 20W Rockola 443 will shake the house through 70's speakers if wound up.

My father did this and he was a war time trained engineer

Try the mig welding forum **LINK**