Member postings for James Alford

I have been finding the dial on my Flexispeed's cross slide difficult to use: the markings are not very clear, it has no numbers and there is no reference point on the fixed part of the slide.

To make life easier, I have attached a DTI with an adjustable bracket. I can also swap between a metric and Imperial gauge as the need dictates. Next step - rig up something similar for the saddle. For this, I shall probably use a digital tyre depth gauge as they are smaller and less obtrusive.

Regards,

James.

Thank you for all of the ideas and comments. I have now ordered a couple of ER11 collet chucks on 4" parallel shanks to use as a base for a spindle and for a collet chuck for the headstock. I shall let you know how it goes, in due course.

I have not sortedout a motor yet, but there is plenty of time for that yet.

Regards,

James.

Edited By James Alford on 03/01/2016 09:36:27

John,

Out of interest: do you find that the motor is powerful enough for light milling?

Regards,

James.

John,

Thank you for the details of your spindle.

You are not missing anything: I want to be able to use a mill in the headstock chuck to mill work on a vertical slide and have a separate spindle to mill and drill work held in the chuck.

James.

Thank you for the comments and suggestions.

James.

I plan, at some stage, to make a milling/drilling spindle to use in a vertical slide on my Flexispeed. My thoughts are to fabricate a suitable housing, with bearings, for one of these spindles and then run it with a sewing machine motor.

**LINK**

Does this sound like a sensible plan? I like the idea of the spindle as it gives the collet holder rather than fabricating a spindle with a screw-on chuck or similar.

Regards,

James.

B&Q sell Irwin blades which seem to last fairly well.

James.

Thank you.

The sizes are: 1" thick by 1 1/2" wide by 1 3/4" long. The post is 5/8" diameter. I think that the grub screws and height screw are 5mm. It takes a 1/4" tool.

What lathe are you making yours to fit?

Regards,

James.

Having become increasingly frustrated trying to set tool heights with shims, I thought that I would have a go at making an adjustable height toolpost. I completed this using the Flexispeed for all milling and turning. It is a little rough around the edges,needing an Allen bolt to replace the long screw.

I am pleased with it. It works and it is the first thing that I have made on the lathe, other than the odd bush or sleeve.

James.

John,

Thank you for your reply.

I forgot to say in my original post that I do want to build the clock in metal, not in wood.

Regards,

JAmes.

For some years now, I have toyed with building a clock. Now that I have a lathe (Flexispeed), I have decided to have a go. I have a couple of other projects to complete first, so have time to get prepared.

I have seen several plans for wooden clocks, such as these two:

http://www.woodenclocks.co.uk/clock11.html

http://www.woodenclocks.co.uk/clock24-gravity-3.html

but the wheels are too large for the Flexispeed to manage.

I have a couple of questions: is it possible to simply scale down the size of the gears, leaving the swing of the pendulum as it is, or will this cause problems?

Alternatively,can anyone suggest an interesting looking, but relatively simple weight-driven clock suitable for a beginner with a small lathe?

Thank you.

JAmes.

Brian,

My Flexispeed Meteor II has a 1/2" BSF spindle thread. I cannot help with the tailstock drill chuck arbour, though. The shortened 0 morse fittings seem to be like gold dust.

Regards,

JAmes.

Glenn,

I cannot help with making a metal nut, but I had a similar problem with the main carriage nut on my Flexispeed. I used polymorph to make a replacement, moulding it around the leadscrew and then shaping it to fit. So far, it is working well. Others have used Delrin to do the same job.

This my original thread, which contains links to the Delrin idea and several thoughts by others on alternatives to polymorph.

Regards,

James.

I shall throw in my penny worth.

As a beginner with a vague idea of what I am doing, gleaned from college years ago, my old grandad (a top-notch engineer) and tinkering unsuccessfully with a Peatol lathe some years ago, I have found the answers to my specific questions relevant, helpful and courteous.

I find the broad mix of topics useful as it gives a good insight into several different areas of the past time which I would never has considered looking at without the prompt provided by this site. Also, my experience of forums on other topics (I have an interest in copper art) which have a narrow focus is that thye wither and die. I confess that several threads are of no interest to me at all, but it takes no effort for me not to read them.

James.

Edited By James Alford on 14/11/2015 08:59:21

1. they are not CNC machines so that saves a bob or two

I have just noticed that, which does completely change the matter.

James.

Talking of cheap Chinese lathes, I am amazed by the price of these CNC machines. I know that they are tiny and may not be of the best quality (even though they look pretty reasonable), how can they produce something so complex and turn a profit for so little? I have seen these on E-bay for less than £100.00 (just).

**LINK**

Regards,

James.

OuBallie,

A friend of mine repairs and restores Austin Sevens, builds replicas and manufactures new parts for them. If you need any advice, you could always give him a try. His details are Ian Tillman, www.oxfordshiresevens.co.uk or 07743 263791.

Regards,

James.

I can second the Brit Bike forum. I found the the b50.org forum to be excellent as well, despite only having the C15.

Regards,

JAmes.

If you have not already bought a copy, or at least heard of it, I would suggest having a look for a copy of Rupert Ratio's C15 book. I found it invaluable when I rebuilt my machine. It is full of practical advice, detailed guidance and drawings, and clear, reliable, step by step guides to dismantling and rebuilding the engines successfully. I also have the Haynes manual and, by te comparison with the Raupert Ratio book, it is very poor.

Regards,

James.

The zener is not instead of the rectifier, it is an addition. It limits the voltage.

I fitted a device similar to the one shown in this link, which replaced the rectificier and avoided any need for a diode. It is bolted to a thick sheet of aluminium, up under the seat where it stays reasonably dry and is in a free air flow. It has been on for quite a few years and miles with no problems.

**LINK**

James.