Member postings for Nick Hulme

That is backlash, that the gib strips aren't tight enough to stop you moving the slide by hand doesn't change the fact that it's slack in the axis drive system.
Strip it, clean it, lube it and assemble it and adjust it correctly and check it again.

It's easily done on a Super 7 if you visit and talk to your local engineering bearing supplier.

The gear is mounted on a moving chassis and is what moves and "pulls".

If it pulls with any force what stops the two threaded rods bending apart? It will need some bearing supports, at least at the mid points, to prevent 6mm rod from bending.

Are you using the manufacturer's recommended speeds for the tool, or if not provided those from a similar tool from a big player?

I usually fixtures in the same CAD/CAM file as the part, just in a different layer, it's easy to create a fixture in the same file as the work piece using the same co-ordinate system and so knowing exactly where everything is.

Nice job!
I'm interested on the "Beat China on Price" bit though, what hourly rate did you base that calculation on?

Incorrect guess, guess again, it's what you're good at

Lose the % character and use a generic FANUC format.

Cut away from the shoulder and out of the bore, saves all the mucking about with gadgets you just don't need :D

You should grind your form tools such that they have the angles required, and not "Sharpen" them afterwards.

Machine it dry and use vacuum extraction, HEPA vacuum or exhaust outside the workshop.

It's fine, all the "experts" haven't actually done it, or if they have and hit this problem they had left their chuck loose :D

Done it on a Myford Super 7 for 15 years, you have to cut a massive thread in one pass to dislodge a well fitted Myford chuck.

If used correctly the threads should be acting purely in tension, a good M8 bolt will exceed your requirements, to say anything else is to demonstrate a lamentable lack of basic engineering knowledge.

John's idea was to use ER collets for their clamping range and front clamping nut, he also made the block smaller across the flats than the shoulder behind the threads to enable easy, repeatable location against vice jaws for horizontal use.
Can't see any of that in the photos

I bought 29 and 30 some time ago and recently picked up 30, 31 and 32, all of them are marked with the standard 1mm compression range and work fine that way.

Quotes from where? -

**LINK**

I use a length of thin walled plastic tube over the strut on my benchtop CNC mill, it's just a bit longer than the rod and is a sliding fit over the housing so it drops into position to keep the strut clean but can easily be lifted to check everything is still spotless underneath.

Even so?
That would be because you know what's involved in learning CAD/CAM/CNC and actually making precision parts and have achieved this, since it is obviously simpler than what you do?

Cheap scales don't give you the basics for a DRO on a Mill, if you don't have multiple zeros then you don't have a DRO and you might think it's great because you will simply not understand the advantages to having multiple zero points in 3 axes.