Member postings for Nick Wheeler

Life's too short; buy the flange mounted ER32. Then you can mount milling cutters, or use it for work holding.

Mine was one of the few things I kept when I sold the mini-lathe when I upgraded to a bigger machine. Although I did need to make an adapter to use it.

Perhaps it's my inexperience showing, but where are any of the dimensions for the legs? Not having the centres for the largely decorative radii is pretty trivial by comparison.

It's not the nuts, but the limited clearance between the end of the stud and the headstock. Another 5mm would make chuck changing much less fiddly.

I didn't bolt mine down as it made more sense being able to move it.

I haven't bolted its replacement(wm250-vf) down either, as I don't really have space for it, and have to move it slightly to get the gear cover open, or to open the cupboard door that it blocks. I'm less happy about this, but that's the way it has to be.

That simply isn't true of a lot of cars. When even a small car like a Fiesta uses 15"wheels(or bigger in a lot of models), you need to find room for a disc almost 20" in diameter and at least 6" thick. Measure the distance forwards of the boot jamb and see how far you get. Well into the backseat in a lot of cars.

As a recovery driver, my advice is to have a spare if there is room for it. That's not always possible; Minis for example. Ensure you get a jack and wheelbrace.

A full size spare is best, but even a space saver gets you moving. A can of foam and a scrap tyre is a recovery; two recoveries if it's out of hours.

Considering that drawings tend to give the required diameter and that your ruler/caliper/micrometer measures the diameter, why would you want the dial to read radius?