Member postings for Nick Wheeler

I buy stock for specific projects, plus a bit extra.

But I don't do many of those, so often find myself making smallish parts from larger material than is strictly necessary. That way, I don't need to keep lots of sizes, which is important when storage(and work!) space is a problem.

Considering that the government is using one of the joke buzzword-generators as both a policy development tool and slogan producer, the answer to that has to be no.

Knurled wheels instead of nuts also mean that no tools are needed to operate the stop, which means you're a lot more likely to actually use the thing. If the original design was laid out for M10 threads, then replacing that with M6 as previously suggested without moving anything else will give plenty of space for a usefully sized wheel.

Make 'L' shaped plates that incorporate both the the ear and the nut. That ought to make attaching them a lot easier too

Do you really need M10 on something as small as a Sherline?

Swapping to M6 would be more in proportion with the machine, and instantly gives you a 1mm pitch instead of the 1.5mm you currently have

Why not make the gantry legs out of carbon fibre rod instead of metal? Their expansion rate will be much closer to that of the pendulum.

A business model that goes back to 1903, and the Gillette safety razor......

That's only really true if your hobby is making swarf. If you actually want parts, whatever they might be for, producing them is just a time consuming step.

The rest of the band didn't care how I made the lower bolt

to reattach this

into the bell. I would much rather the job had taken less than the 2.5 hours it did.

You have to count the extra time and hassle of making the 'casting'. Plus the extra time of roughing out to start machining it.

I can see why you would cast shaped parts, especially if using small machines, and intend to try it. but making your own round/square stock

And by not doing that, I managed to strip the very short thread on a mounting stud. So I made 3 new ones, out of an old aircraft bolt, that are much more satisfactory.

That was after five years of use.

Surely that's going to depend on the work? Most of my stuff is for cars, so I keep a decent selection of M6 and M8 fasteners, fewer M5 and some M10.

M12x1.5 taps and dies are a fairly common need, but that's only true for automotive use.

I've never used a BA thread, and would struggle to find the BA spanners that were my grandfathers.

Then there's those who can't be taught anything. They become government Ministers.....

That is very true. Teaching well is depressingly undervalued skill. And you don't need to be a world class expert in something to teach beginners the basics.

Digital bevel gauge does everything I need. Works on car suspension too.

Deeming was the American engineer whose ideas on quality management that Toyota developed.

My experiences with Lucas parts on cars is that Lucas components are no worse than Bosch, but are cheaper to buy and are actually repairable. Lucas connectors are terrible, and most wiring looms don't have enough separate earths.

it's also intended to prevent the door and mechanism from damage by slamming shut. The stay will slow it down.

A TIG torch surrounds the weld with inert shielding gas.

Is it? 1/2hr with some degreaser and fine Scotchbrite, and another few minutes lubricating it should make it both usable and tidy looking.

Plus 2

After installing** my wm250, I fitted the QCTP off my previous minilathe. The next evening I made an adjustable carriage stop - both adjustments are tool free so that it's easy to use.

** carried it down the steps, staggered through the cellar with it and plonked it on the end of the bench where it's been ever since. Although I do swing it around on the drip tray to get in the cupboard next to the change gear cover.