Member postings for Rainbows

A question that didn't deserve its on thread, does anyone know how much an Elliot No 2 pedestal drill should weigh? Gotta carry it down some stairs which will no doubt be fun.

I went up another £50 and bought a Elliot Progress No 2, thats £200 inc delivery. Still no table rack but a working motor, back geared spindle and known brand help a lot. Seen them go for more so the buyers remorse isn't too bad. Still was more than my lathe though

Could always happen to have the guard and V belts added on later. Daves guard appears to be a cast part where mine is a simple sheet metal piece with no stamping to imply mass production.

Seller hasn't replied since though so it seems to be dead in the water. Having a morse taper is a must for the price range and in general dont fancy dealing with people with poor communication skills.

Got asked £150 including delivery for it which is in the hmmmmm area considering the motor needs rewiring apparently but at the same time not so bad to be instantly against it. Currently waiting answers to if it has a MT spindle, motor power and so on.

Looking into buying a pedestal drill, marked "Brimsdown ST1". Just thought I would do a quick sweep here if anyone can claim to have one. Google couldn't find anything at all. Well made? Sloppy piece of rubbish? Its going to be a restoration project either way but I am wondering if I will be polishing a poo.

I would be tempted to glue sand paper to a flat steel bar and just run it over the tang till clean. Depends how bad the dings are. With a cutting tool you have to worry about run out, the sandpaper would cut relative to the surface if that makes sense.

Usual declaration, just a satisfied customer and so on, no affiliation with the place.

If anyone here is in Sheffield and stuck for a material supplier I couldn't recommend Avus Metals And Plastics enough.

http://www.avusmetalsandplastics.co.uk/

Free local delivery (I always buy while in Sheffield then ferry back to garage in Macclesfield). No minimum order. Their steel prices are quite good compared to what I have had in the past. Often 1/2 to 2/3 of the price given by themetalstore.co.uk which I was using previously.

Just felt like sharing after being stuck without a good supplier for a while.

Well they let me register for the website without a company but to register for the specific auction they emailed me I need a company and VAT number. No £25 Meddings drill for me. Would have been helpful if they had said at the beginning they needed that. Avoid Apex Auctions if you don't have a shell company

Have Roy Walker noted down for future reference though, sounds a good guy to know.

Had an evening looking through the world of industrial auctions, some lots very much caught my eye.

The issue is the auction house doesn't package anything. I have had UPS collect packages before but it always involved the seller sticking it in a box first.

I wanna nab a bench drill and a servo driven dividing head. Neither are particularly difficult to move about. The bench drill is already on a pallet even.

The auction house is giving some other rules too

"Buyers or third party movers must present an invoice to the on-site personnel when removing their items."

"Buyers / Transport Companies must bring their invoice copy to site together with copies of:- Public Liability Insurance, Suitable Method Statement / Risk Assessment, Capability and Competence references and appropriate Licensing. It is the buyer’s responsibility to ensure their removal contractor has the appropriate insurance coverage. If there is any doubt as to the limit of insurance needed please contact the office."

Though the second one I imagine applies more to people moving 100 tonne CNC machines rather than a drill press.

Can anyone recommend a courier that could take the goods from Melton Mowbray to Sheffield that wouldn't mind printing off an invoice and won't mind not having everything pre-labeled?

If I stick it on the wishlist between the bandsaw and the surface grinder...

That said the cost of those precision angles is something in the same area as a collet chuck and dovetail cutter. Chinese prices make bodging somewhat less effective.

Issue is that there is a 1" shaft sticking out both sides of the cutter. This would hit the top of the dovetail.

Looking at Colins I noticed I can save 16mm by sticking the nut in rather than under the moving table. (Nice milling vice too)

Will probably go as Neil says and remove the holder for rigidity. Though because I still need to be able to clamp the boring bar I am not sure if I can save much height from it.

Getting rid of the slide completely would be a wild ride. If I ever need even more space I could go for that. Have seen those little boring things in the past but never went for them. Will pick one up if the price is right.

Ended up making a design, probably isn't particularly low profile but in case anyone cares I will post some pics anyways. Sadly I don't have a digital subscription either

The horizontal mill doesn't like internal dovetails, I have a 60 degree cutter but it would only be able to do the exposed dovetails. Collet chuck is still on the wishlist. So instead of dovetails we have box section ways.

The pocket for the lead screw nut is going to get hogged out with a drill press and a dremel tool.

Going to use a M8x0.5 fine thread. Lets me get 0.01mm on a 10mm dial. Probably going to push a 10mm collar on to the severed head of a m4 cap head or something like that. Not fully worked it out yet. Could have a go trying to make a hex broach.

Boring bar gets locked in place by tightening the central bolt of each gib down hard.

A bronze piece retains the leadscrew and locates it axially. Pretty much a copy of my lathe compound slide.

The bar is held by a cotter pin. I also have a plan for a horizontal holder for really big bores. Could add more attachments but I can't think of any of the top of my head.

Body is 80mm diameter. Total length 148mm. Length minus taper is 62.5mm. Takes 12mm bars.

Might still tweak it but thats the overall plan.

Ah thats a good idea, I imagine that a poly vee belt with quite a few ribs can transmit quite a lot of torque. Will have a google around to try and find max torque, and check feasibility.

Well it would kind of work but not well. For 100 RPM on a 50mm pulley the kW per rib is like 0.01-0.02. Don't think 100 rib belts are in common manufacture. If I were switching between a very high speed and a medium speed it would work great but not here.

Edited By Rainbows on 10/09/2017 22:22:00

This has the potential to be its own thread but what for not taking over the forum will just turn this into Denbigh Mill Questions General.

I'm installing a bigger motor with VFD to the mill and want to overhaul the countershaft while I am at it.

For speeds of 504,300, 178, 84, 50 and 30 RPM on the spindle I need to make the spindle go at either 300 or 50 RPM. The fast 3 for small cutters and endmills and the slower range for the bulk of the horizontal milling tools. As is the spindle is too fast for most horizontal cutters.

The motor which I got is a 1.5kw 1420RPM model. The overkill power is to let the VFD turn down the speed without running out of power.

Issue is that the ratio from motor to countershaft is 4.7:1 (not too bad) and 28.4:1 (uh oh). Making a 6:1 then 1:4 compound pulley would be a pain for switching between speeds. My current idea is to make something like the back gear of a lathe on the countershaft. Have the 4.7:1 ratio by pulley then a back gear of 6:1.

Would rather not have to buy 4 gears and make an eccentric shaft though. Can anyone recommend a different solution?

Starting at £100 from MSC I gotta think that for the average hobbyist its worth a go making one rather than buying

I need a boring head to make the new over arm for my horizontal mill, then after that probably to bore a bunch of other stuff too.

Apart from off the shelf heads being money and not being as satisfying as making one I do need to minimise the space taken up because the horizontal space on a horizontal mill is less than the vertical on a vertical mill. Some commercial heads seem to be longer than necessary.

While minimising the height I still want something fairly beefy to hog out a 2.5" hole without taking a year. I also later want to make a 100mm hole to take a flange mounted motor which is probably the biggest hole I need for the near future.

Has anyone got plans for a home made low profile boring head? Or pictures or even concepts that have never been put into practice. Wanted to check the hivemind before designing something myself which turns out to be already done better.

Except for that lip to the left there isn't really any point thats thicker than the over arm so can't bore it out. You can kind of see the bronze lump welded the the original cast part. The 15.85mm bore only goes 16mm in which isn't in my mind the optimum bearing size for the forces involved.

Mark, how long has your ball bearing been working? My only concern is having the bearing being pressed on and off hte arbour a lot and something wearing away. Not sure what sort of tolerance would give the least interference while still engaging the bearing. I am pretty terrible historically speaking at making bearings fit properly.

I can't remember where but I saw a guide on the internet ages ago on making cotter pins while restoring a capstan. If anyone knows he one I am talking about it would be handy to have a link for reference and also posterity. Can't say I currently have the GHT book but I have a vague idea how to make them.

Also thanks for the offer of the somewhat closer calipers :v Been a long long time since I used manual ones. I think they are surplus to requirements now however. Times are a fair bit hectic at the moment, might see you some day though.

edit: caught out by the secret second page, double thanks for those offers. Though not necessary for the current job its good to know someone generous is close by. 

Edited By Rainbows on 07/09/2017 00:36:30

Ahh I thought cotter pin but when I googled it there was just the hairpin style ones.

Yeah I was about to make it in situ with the rest of the hole. I would have thought the single line of contact in the wedge shape would give more pressure -> more chance of denting? Maybe if I bore it in situ and then file off the small extremity of the pin it will give the best of both worlds?

Ah also a very good point. I really need to practice my out the box thinking more often.

Oh damn ok I think Bazyle has got the idea.

Keeping hold of a MT 3 centre that doesn't fit any of my lathes was a good idea after all.

One last thing though. If anyone has seen the turret of a capstan lathe or the tailstock of some better lathes whats the thing called that locks either the turret tool or tailstock quill in place? Its how I want to fix up the support onto the overarm but now knowing what to call it is bugging me.