Member postings for Rainbows

This is one of those things that is entirely for curiosity (and some improvement in skills) than a practical purpose.

Looking at a Taylor chuck that came with some other tools I was quite interested by the conical scroll. I couldn't think how I would design it with all the power of CAD, never mind how someone worked out the form from just paper.

Could anyone here better at CAD and design in general show how to design such a conical scroll plate and matching jaws? I could make a scroll plate, I could make a thread but this is a weird mix between the two.

How fast do you want them moving on? Patience can often net you an extra bit of cash at the cost of having your garage full of old machinery.

Another significant price changer is access. If your garage rolls right onto the road on a flat concrete drive then fantastic. If you have the ability and will to stick them on a pallet for delivery then you can sell to even more people. Opposite way around it the shed was built around the machines (looking at the mill in particular here) or if its in a basement then it takes a more enthusiastic buyer to come along and fish it out

Have my eye on that £100 one, alas it is far up in scotland and couriers don't seem to like that.

As mentioned I was thinking that it I am buying my own ballscrew it doesn't matter too much whether it already had one. Instead of machining flats I was thinking of trying to get a plate that would be adjusted to flatness by bolting it to the front with adjusting jack screws.

Was also thinking that as training lathes they would have little mileage for their age.

Didn't consider that the drive system would need a full overhaul which is a good point. If the bearings are also a non standard part that makes me nervous.

The small size I was considering as a possible benefit actually in my crowded garage. Minilathe footprint but beefier.

Might simply continue with the plan of converting a 7x14 minilathe.

Evening all

Anyone have advice on what a fair price for a Raglan Loughborough Training Lathe is?

I was thinking that with their apparent rigidity but lack of change gears they would make a good base for a CNC conversion.

The ones currently on ebay are about £650, which I think is a bit pricey. Can anyone comment on what a reasonable price is?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-0-75KW-4A-Single-Phase-VFD-Variable-Speed-Motor-Drive-Frequency-Inverter-UK/123430183949?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Alas had a look at the listing and couldn't find any maker, googling AX2 showed some other listings including amazon ones but couldn't locate the manual.

Will contact the seller and see if they can supply a english manual, other wise might have bought a dud.

As Ian says I think its only disconnecting a load that can cause damage- not starting with one hopefully doesn't hurt it.

Multi part question

Has anyone bought ad used an AX2 - B 0.75kW VFD? I have one here and am curious if I by bad luck got a dud or if all VFDs are equally awful from this maker.

Part two

When I wired this VFD in it comes up when turned on with "limit protection" s far as I can tell from using google translate on the chinese only manual. This is separate to Overload or High Voltage protection.

In part due to not being good at VFDs at the best of times and also because I have no usable manual: can anyone think what limit protection is on a VFD? At this point it triggers with or without a motor attached and I have never even got the motor spinning.

Sorting through some stuff I have what first looked like a morse taper reducing adaptor.

Inside it has a MT4 dead centre in, when I measured the outside though it didn't match with any taper.

Large OD: 62.00mm Small OD: 56.05mm Length: 98.68mm

My maths puts that at 1.726 degrees. Only used a calliper so measurements might not be dead on.

I thought it might be an adaptor for a proprietary spindle taper but I wouldn't know what lathe it might match without trawling through the entire lathes website. Anyone here think those dimensions look familiar? No use for it myself paperweight aside so would sell it for postage and the cost of a pint or something like that.

Opened the worm gearbox in my H80 to replace the OEM oil with trusted quality oil. Found at the bottom a not insignificant of bronze dust mixed with the oil.

Bandsaw has only seen light use: is this the gears wearing in as they do or a sign that something is dodgy?

Regarding a previously mentioned ML10 lathe bought for restoration.

After soaking with WD40, scouring with wire wool and occasionally scotchbrite pads on problem areas a lot of rusty lathe has become shiny lathe. While the half of the lathe towards the headstock shined up nicely the tailstock half remains a dark colour of leftover rust.

Does anyone have an idea better than assault with wet and dry on how to remove heavily built on rust? Previous threads usually warn against any abrasives on the ways but at this point I think I have exhausted the limits of that.

RE: surface grinder as miller

Spindle will be too fast for horizontal mill blades. If you can somehow mount a chuck on it you could get away with small endmills but you would have some awkwardness because of the rack and pinion preventing fine adjustment in one axis. Not sure you would mount the chuck either.

If you want a mill I would swap you a denbigh for it

Recently come into ownership of a ML10 lathe that I would describe as a restoration project. Once restored it leaves me with two lathes of similar size.

Once the ML10 is restored which of the two lathes is the better one to keep?

From what I can tell of pictures

ML10

+ Slotted Cross Slide

+More robust backgearing

Minilathe

+Taper roller bearings

+Spares abundant

+Variable speed (ML10 VFD pending)

Looks like a steal if it polishes up

Im in the market for a bandsaw that will let me get the most choppy chop with the least financial and spatial investment.

Chester H80 looks like it might fit the bill. Can anyone comment on its capability? Any competing bandsaws that give it competition?

Thinking about it I realised that the various hand powered options are going to be to some extent a pain in the ass to use when trying to reach over the workbench and to the upper shelf. And as Clive mentions if its a pain to use then I'm gonna end up doing my back in cause of the faff.

I quite like Bayzles idea of a large hoist motor mounted out the way then fed to the crane. Only issue I can see is that I would have to keep the trolley fixed in place or else the force of the lifting would act to roll the trolley towards the motor. Thinking either a leadscrew working in line with the jib boom or a cable looped around a drum and then connected to the trolley. Adds a extra layer of complexity though. Might be able to use a dipping style or otherwise articulated arm to replace need for a trolley entirely, as per mobility scooters. Still working that one out tho.

Ians set up looks pretty compact so will have a motor hunting party and see if I have anything that could be suitable.

Also realised I could forgo T section and make my own T using some 50x6 flat then weld (XX)x6 flat with whatever variable for XX to either make a same size but cheaper cost boom or use like 80x6 and get a stronger one for the same width

On a workbench I'm designing I want to stick a small jib crane onto it. 80kg swl at 1 meter so I can hang vices or large bench tools on a rear shelf and generally save my back.

Jib boom is made out of 50x50x6 T section. Probably going to also add a extra wire or bar support coming off top.

Issue is I want a suitably matched hoist and chain hoists seem to be 1000kg, electric hoists are bulkier and still start at 200kg. Has anyone made a minitaurised hoist or seen plans published for one?

I have a 5L tin of primer that keeps getting used for small jobs and after all that screwdrivering it now is hard to get off and Im losing as much paint to air leaks as I am using to paint.

Does anyone have a good alternative to prise lid tins? I used to have some medium sized barrels with a sort of sprung ring to keep the lid on but I don't know if they go small enough or where to get them (or their technical name).

In some warehouse there is a man with a bunch of boxes and a bunch of things to pack- I tend to imagine they will use the nearest box instead of getting off their seat to find a parcel bag

Local idiot completely strips down nibbler to take blade off, at the end realised blades screws out without needing any other disassembly

Machine is a bit confusing: all the body bolts are metric hex key sizes but the ones that keep the die on are between my 2 and 2.5mm keys so I need to hunt down where my imperial allen key set went. Guess the product line spanned metric-fication and the kept the punch and die imperial for interchangeability

In case anyone in the far future gets a machine and has the urge to make their own blade I will make a sketch for posterity, along with a text description cause you see a lot of dead images on old forum posts.

Looking at it the shank is 9.45mm diameter and 28.5mm long with 20mm of that being threaded. The thread OD is 9.29mm, pitch eyeballs in at 1.5mm. Take that 9.45mm to 9.525mm and that 1.5mm to 1.27mm then you get a 3/8" BSF thread.

The blade section is 55.44mm at its longest but would ideally be 58mm on account of this blade is too short from sharpening. Depending where I measure it is 2.3 to 2.4mm thick (worn vs unworn section?) and 7.85 wide.

Annoying while symmetrical along its wide axis in thickness its been offset in its other axis so I need to figure out a good way to measure that.

Once I get access to a CAD capable laptop I will make a quick sketch.

For my own particular machine Im just gonna shim the blade down by sticking washers into the threaded hole or something now that I've sharpened the mangled blades at the cost of them being too short.

Ya boi went and obtained some Duplex nibblers and while they in the post I'm trying to find new blades for them. Description is that the tools are fine except the blades have worn down to nothing.

Looking on the internet I can't find much as far as Duplex specific blades. One shop in america does them but not for my model N3H.

Anyone have a spare pair knocking about? If not then once the nibblers arrive this can become a "how to make nibbler blades" thread

I have a healthy phobia of wedging open cast iron parts on account of the sudden brutal breakages that can happen, that said if no better solution raises its head will probably gently try that