Member postings for Rainbows

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I'm curious what people would think of its big brother, the U2

First time I've ever kept something outside on account of someone having parked and blocked the garage door, I thought ah it will probably be able to last 12 hours until the path is clear - but here we go.Will see if I can search it outi n the scrappies

This got nabbed from the front yard, hiding it in a bush evidently wasnt as great a protection as expected. If anyone sees it in a scrap yard or getting sold as industrial furniture on ebay please give me a message. Imagine it would be the Sheffield area.

Also beyond reporting theft to the police any other ideas on ideal retrieval methods?

My Wilfin lathe currently has a wiring circuit of

Plug -> Fused switch box -> Motor

While it does work and I could take test cuts I'd rather not have this be the long term wiring plan.

New one, as far as I can think would be

Plug -> Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop -> Motor

But also I want in the future to add lighting (240V AC), tachometer (??) , pedal E stop (not sure where it wires in), electronic leadscrew (12V DC? 24-48V DC??), DRO (230V AC), VFD (230V AC), maybe some more stuff.

Ideally I want all electronics stuck in the cast iron cabinet under the headstock of the lathe.

So my questions are

Is my Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop enough safety for the immediate task of just controlling the motor?

Also I don't want to have to rip everything out to rewire each time I add a component. I can wire a plug but 7+ circuits in a small space is not something I'm used to making or making look neat. Does anyone have tips on how to make things modular and keep wiring organised?

Also is there a chance that electrical noise from the VFD would affect the electronics in the tachometer or DRO?

Also also (last one now) should an E stop cut power to all parts of the lathe or only cut power to the spindle motor?

It seems like facebook avoids a lot of the price inflation of ebay, maybe not taking 15% commision helps among other things. But yeah made a lot of recent purchases from it including this one

Having finished restoring the Wilfin for now I set my sights on new piles or rust to attack with wire wool and am about to en up with a pallet including a horizontal mill and a slotter. The mill looks generic but I haven't seen the slotter before and a search of the usual lathes website doesn't bring anything up, possibly because its an accessory to another machine.

As a quick check does anyone recognise this machine? More photos to be had when it arrives.

As Guy mentions many medications make things worse before they make things better as the body reacts to all the new chemicals in it, once the body adjusts the side effects lessen.

Throwing in some newer pictures. To the mention of change wheels- one of the gears in the apron is stamped 72T and has been welded onto a hub and fixed to the shaft with a taper pin. Probably a farm repair, or maybe the Wilfin factory ran out of the right gear blank.

I do in fact have the shaft for the power feeds, though I managed to obscure it with the leadscrew in the first pic.

My mini lathe is currently in a half state of repair being mid way through a CNC conversion when I decided to restore the Wilfin. I do have a 3D printer though which would be useful for prototyping (taking bets on how long a PLA wormgear would last in actual use). No dividing head but I could maybe bungle something together on this lathe.

Checking out HLVs they have a 1/10HP (~75w) motor according to the internet (couldn't tell if AC or DC) which is beyond the majority of chinese worm motors on ebay but would be well within a drill motor.

I would trust Hardinge would spec a strong enough motor that the issues Bayzle mentioned wouldn't happen though I'd be interested in a first hand account if it maybe has issues on roughing cuts or the like.

While the leadscrew is fully working there aren't any change gears, so I have been wondering about trying an electronic leadscrew but that's for another day. Buying in metric ones is a neat idea though I'd never thought of that before.

Ok well that's a slightly clumsy title

Some of you may remember my lathe identification question

Against all sensibility that lathe got bought and mostly restored so far

However the apron is missing a few part: the worm screw that mounts on the power feed shaft and the assorted gears that transfer that power to either the rack and pinion or cross slide leadscrew.

Option 1: design and build a replacement for the missing gearing to the power feed shaft - the rarity of Wilfins means I can't expect to find someone to give me dimensions as per the original build

Option 2: Slap an electric motor somewhere in or on the saddle and belt it onto the existing gears

To me option 2 sounds much easier but at the same time its rare to see it outside of 1 or 2 modified mini lathes which makes me think there is a catch, A 21W, 60 RPM worm gear motor on ebay is only £15 so why wouldn't more lathes use that instead of all the cost of gear cutting?

I might be misunderstanding the situation but will reversing one wheel in the holder cause the direction to flip and you will get your diamond?

Hi all

I recently came into possesion of 4 off of some quite large Burnerd 4 jaw chucks as NOS. (fact of the day, the original packaging is a bunch of hay in what looks like a huge cake tin) I want to clean the current grease off of them, inspect for damage and then recoat them for longevity.

I'm vaguely aware of a particular oil/grease that is an industry standard for packing parts up. I remember my minilathe came covered in a coating which looked like dried oil- nice since it didnt cover the hands and anything else the lathe touched. Could anyone pass on the name for it?

Nine out of ten journeys are just shuffling your own body to work and back, which EVs are perfectly suitable for in both range and capacity. Tesla is also making a pickup and E-vans are available which will probably start eating into cargo carrying. Imagine long distance driving will be the last niche that EVs don't eat up, or until faster and more frequent charging stations become common.

My current brush is a Synthetic Harris Trade Fine Tip 2" or 2 1/4". Its the second cheapest screwfix sold (I thought avoiding the truly cheapest might give me an edge). I was thinking that some bristles on a stick are some bristles on a stick no matter how cheap. Will have a look around for the more expensive brushes.

Think my sandpaper was 320 grit, was sanding dry but with all the paint immediately clogging my paper I was considering using water to see if that helped, will do so in the future.

Called the drip tray a functional if not nice looking job, it may well be the soonest thing that needs repainting anyway because of wear in use. Next job will be the legs which I will try a better job on.

Morning all

As part of my ongoing restoration of a Wilfin lathe I'm trying to get a nice smooth finish on all painted parts.

First part to be painted was the drip tray which the process was

Bend bent parts back to shape

Weld up crack on rim, grind smooth

Flap disc entire surface

Body filler entire surface (the tray looked like a moonscape of little pits)

Flap disc entire surface smooth

Screwfix basics red oxide primer, 2 coats, sand between coats

Machinery enamel. BS 00 A 09 Mid Gray, Gloss

Paint, sand, paint again (and a few more times trying to get a flat finish)

Now the issue is, if I paint thinly I get brush strokes left in the paint surface, if I paint thick the brush marks level out but I get left with splotches where some paint is obviously thicker than other parts.

I looked at my mini lathe and they have done a pretty good job of getting a perfectly flat finish with some no doubt cheap labour. Can anyone see the part of my process that is giving me such uneven fninishes?

Apparently the seller took this off the lathe and since lost it. It would have in hindsight helped a lot with identification huh.

I squinted at the tailstock and there are some differences. The keighley lacks the sort of sweep underneath the handle. Though still quite similar.

Also wow this forum put together must recognise on sight every lathe to exist. Thanks y'all

I'm going to restore this lathe so hard it makes a Hardinge HLV look like an Adept (not even a super one!) just to spite those who say its a pile of scrap (even though it may well be)

Very cheap, cheerfulness still under debate. Looking at the current going rate of Boxfords on ebay the exchange rate is about 4-6 of these per Boxford. I could take the legs and sell them for a profit.

I did actually inquire about a mill but apparently the vice is to be kept.

Thankfully for me I'm a masochist and enjoy restoring machinery at deaths door (I don't think I showed the solid block of rust that was a ML10 I restored)

Afternoon all

After being suitably scared off from importing an Asian lathe I snooped about the internet a little bit for a lathe. It turned out to be facebook that provided in the end. It's very much a restoration project.

Can anyone recognise the make?

Was checking the price for a BT300 (roughly equivalent of SIEG SC10, bit below a Chester Craftsman in weight).

Compared to a Craftsman I would save £1000 and get a roughly same specification lathe. Price is after delivery and VAT, etc.

Anyone got warning stories of their experience importing heavy equipment? Would be the heaviest thing I have bought abroad by 200 kilos so could go wrong who knows.