Member postings for Rainbows

88mm of Y travel seems a tad small, an X1 has 145mm. X and Z are fairly similar between the two.

Out of curiosity what are the missing features that a more up market horizontal mill would have? I have a surface level understanding of how they are used but beyond that don't really have a clue on the finer points. 

Edited By Rainbows on 27/07/2017 21:20:29

After failing to buy an Elliott shaper and having a strongly pent up desire to make flat things I impulse spent £300 for a mill, 30 cutters and a 100 mile round trip delivery drive from the seller.

Not sure if I over paid for it. The search for milling machines hasn't turned up anything better in the past and I can't get an X0 micro mill with table for that money so I don't think I will regret it strongly.

Any way here are the seller pics

Can anyone recognise the make? On the side view I can see a sort of celtic knot (I think thats the right word) but aside from that no numbering or lettering.

Looks like I am sashaying away from that bin then Sadly the last scrap yard in town closed so not much chance of getting them for scrap value.

Is there anything to stop just using an angle grinder to grind off the chilled skin? (apart from excessive labour and time) Is the casting so bad the chill is really deep?

Came across a large bin full of sash weights in a reclaimation yard. Big bin as in 1 meter cubed volume.

After thinking I had found a lifetime source of cast iron rod I asked the price and was told £5 each which put me off at the time. Was still however less than half the price of a cast iron rod of comparable size as from a reputable source.

Would it be worth taking a risk on the weights?

Checking ebay sold listing can be a good indicator.

Looks like an average of £500, sometimes down to £300 or up to £800. Always on a bit of luck and two rich guys hoping to have a lathe on ebay. Those were with the makers cabinet/stand though so maybe cut £100 off if its the bare lathe.

Thank you very much. Pleasantly surprised by the size taken up.

Can anyone quickly give me the approximate overall size and foot print of an Elliot 10M? I have a mind to search one out to buy but need to check how much space to clear first.

The nemes manual has a bit showing all the dimensions but the scan is too blurry to make any of the figures out.

PM me your email and I can forward the manual pdf Andy sent me.

Having all the bits of a Mk2 would be nice, I'm stuck with the still competent but much less user friendly Mk1 equivalent. No screw cutting gearbox, clutch or surfacing feed.

Win it, sell it, buy a chinese CNC router, have £500 left over

Was about to take this spare backplate and machine it to match a new taylor chuck, then I notice it isn't actually a backplate

There are 4 countersunk holes and a very fine/now worn knurl on the OD of the nut. There is a radial hole in both parts for tightening with a tommy bar.

Can't think it was a particularly fast or simple thing to make so it seems a shame to turn it into a simple backplate without trying to know its purpose.

The collet is 5/8" on the body with a 5/8x20TPI thread on the end. No internal thread. Increases to 0.915" over ~0.650". Working height is 2". Could be homemade, not sure. Would be nice to know what the collet standard is, what machine it has come off if any.

Very deja vu from when I got my CJ18A and made the same post on the forum :P

Never trust me to not be stupid

Been shimmying it out in front of the garage and putting an extension cord back in. Also bought a monoxide detector. Being able to keep it in the garage with a flue is something for the future to deal with

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Rockwool-RWA45-Acoustic-Insulation-Slab-100mm-x-1200mm-x-600mm-%282-88m2-Pack%29/p/961938

Thinking about making an enclosure out of this stuff. Hasn't got the fancy egg carton shape but the price is much nicer and probably less likely to burst into flames.

The listers ability to run on anything is a long ways off yet.

Yeah did some maths 1:1 would be 1.51mm/rev. 20, 100, 25, 127 gears give 5:127 or about 0.06mm/rev. Will have to print off a new sheet of feeds and keep it pegged somewhere. Gonna grind up the tool from "southbend swarf" so I can rough with the same feed. Never appreciated quickchange gearboxes so much

Well I do have probably most of a lister SR1 in the garage. Keep meaning to try and restore it but don't have even the vaguest idea how to do so or start. Would one of them run on veggie oil or does that only work on earlier models?

Alas I wish I had the MK2 lathe, if anyone wants to swap I would be very happy

I will have to fool around with the train a bit, however for general reference and future keighley owners who have lost their plate here are some pics.

Would just be passing a cable through the gap between wall and roof. Don't think anyone would notice.

The current clarke generator runs of a honda. If the generator is here to stay I worked out piling plywood over it does helpt a noticeable amount. A proper soundproofing trolley may be yet to come

The guys house backs onto the courtyard and he had an armoured cable layed from his house into one of the garages, he is only 20m away, mustn't have been cheap though. Asked about having a cable passed through the garage wall but he was worried about legal issues in case everything burns down. Will see how it goes

Used powerfeeds on my Keighley for the first time.

The "sliding feeds" as mentioned on the change gear plate are

21 cuts per inch

42 CPI

84 CPI

84CPI being equal to 0.302 mm/rev

On a big 7.5kw colchester I had gotten used to using ~0.15 mm/rev using quality carbide tooling for roughing.

When I tried 84 CPI (20-80-100 gears with intermediate (80) being randomly selected) anything but a tiny depth of cut at 600RPM in 25mm steel would jam in and stall the lathe.

The coarse feed of 21 CPI is starting to go into thread cutting range.

I'm guessing there is a hole in my knowledge because I can see no way any of these feeds would be useful. Anyone please enlighten me?