Member postings for Ian L2

One major problem when a spare is not provided assumes that the puncture is relatively small, I had one go flat on the motorway and by the time I picked up on it the tyre was never going to be inflated with a can of fluid side wall cream crackered. I personally make sure there is a full size spare in the boot as once changed allows you to continue your journey at normal speeds, space saver tyres have a speed restriction and the fluid does not always work.

Bob

BTW The AA reviews list the type of spare fitted as standard. **LINK**

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 16/01/2015 14:10:48

I was told that one of the latest Jags sports car can have spacesaver spare which is great but when you have fitted it following puncture you have to send for help as the wheel you have just removed wont fit in boot .

Perhaps one of these? Niko.

http://www.fabory.co.uk/pages/categories.html?catId=fabory_0000092195_0000092684_0000092700

Thanks speelwerk. That's exactly what I am looking for problem is they don't sell to anyone only resellers & distributors. and they don't give links to distributors. I will email them and see what they say.

Hi Ian,

Here is the link to the thread about the Axminster NVR switch.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=102212

Regards

Phil H

Thanks Phil.

. fatalities have reduced by 87% between 1974 and 2014, and non fatal injuries by 77% between 1974 and 2012.

How can anyone come up with a percentage like that comparing 1974 with 2012 as the lower fatalities could also have something to do with fact that an extremely large percentage of the workplaces are now closed down.

This started in the days of analogue phones when a few people discovered that if you held your phone near a petrol pump it would under register. It was a fault with the pumps not the phones.

The petrol companies introduced the ban on phones on forecourts under the pretence that it was for safety because of a risk of sparks being generated. The myth never went away.

Russell.

It sounds as if you are getting into a bit of a pickle. You need to separate the different possibilities for the DTI jumping around.

To check the spindle rotate it by hand not under power. That will eliminate any vibration from the motor or belts.

When I first got my Atlas I had a fair amount of vibration until I corrected the following:

• Replaced the old hardened belts with new ones
• Set the correct preload on the bearings
• Replaced the countershaft bearings
• and finally replaced the motor with a three phase motor and VFD

Russell.

This is what I use but no doubt there is UK supplier.

http://shop.vogel-germany.de/product_info.php?language=en&info=p4826_thickness-gauge-foil-din-1544--brass--0-025-mm--2500-mm-x-150-mm.html&=

It is very thin and you will have to experiment with it what the best way is to use it, if you can use it at all. Niko.

They also have it in stainless with a thickness of 0.010 and 0.020 mm.

Edited By speelwerk on 04/01/2015 16:41:19

This is what I use but no doubt there is UK supplier.

http://shop.vogel-germany.de/product_info.php?language=en&info=p4826_thickness-gauge-foil-din-1544--brass--0-025-mm--2500-mm-x-150-mm.html&=

It is very thin and you will have to experiment with it what the best way is to use it, if you can use it at all. Niko.

They also have it in stainless with a thickness of 0.010 and 0.020 mm.

Edited By speelwerk on 04/01/2015 16:41:19

I'm thinking to start with putting this in in 3 strips about 10mm wide evenly spaced around then depending on results going up to 6 evenly spaced. if nothing else will eliminate the bad fit from smoothness

Can you explain what you mean by "not as smooth as one would expect". Do you mean that there is vibration or grittiness? Or do you mean that it has a wobble as it rotates?

The place to check for the spindle running true is on the register behind the thread on the spindle nose. I get 0.005 mm on the cylindrical part and 0.01 mm and I've never changed the bearings in the 40 years I've owned the lathe although I did remove them and give them a good clean in solvent.

Russell

Vibrates and sounds clunky but that might be the belts as one is incorrect size and both very old (new one ordered) and appears to run eccentric to the eye.

Tried to get Dti on the register behind chick but Dti jumps like a good-den which is not surprising as having close look, the surface is bit damaged. I had drop M. T in spindle and Dti on that, M.T rusty. cleaned with wet n dry tried again, M.T still does not feel quite right. suspect inside spindle not clean so need to get something to clean inside Spindle And a New M.T. Will have another go then.

Before you start electroplating you can try if thin brass foil (0.025 mm) wrapped around the spindle does it, Niko.

Niko

Will give it a go wont cost much and its not permanent so now't to loose. But know idea where I can get it from! what's it used for might point me in direction of supply.

Russell will check on your flat disk comment as in box parts there is some more parts which looking at them have hot been fitted for some years.

As it happens I've had it running today all be it on the old bearings as I was interested to see how it ran with the old ones and I only needed to get some parts rotating to clean with wet and dry. Well its not as smooth as one would expect so here is my predicament:-

(A) It could be the old bearings that aren't as good as could be. Don't really want to fit new ones at chuck end yet as once its on it's stopping on.

(B) It could be the m/c shop that skimmed it did not have it bob on. Would hope not the case as its pretty good place with CNC, m/c's and they were aware of what it was for The place i work use them and (

(C) The movement this thread was started for is the cause.

(D) Spindle is bent.

(E) 3 Jaw chuck is not up to much. I'm measuring with DTI on face of backing plate where it screws to spindle. I will pop chuck back off and see if there's any where else I can get DTi.

Probably need to get spindle checked for trueness to start with But not sure how I can do it as I've not another lathe!

With Bearing lock the bearing can be moved with ordinary bearing tools, it's not a shaft lock. The original bearing wasn't going to move much, pressed on the shaft, the shoulder I presume locates the bearing inner race.

Ian S C

Hi Ian S C

I will try get photo later but the bearing does not go up-to the shoulder, the outer race is held ridged in housing and the inner race pushed into the rollers taking up movement & pre-loading by collar being tightened (not much more that hand tight) and locked using grub screw onto threads.

If I end up using lock tight I will have to keep rotating the spindle every now and then so as to not cause bearing damage (not sure how often one should rotate) not beyond the realms of automatically doing this on time clock.

Need to look at cost to get shaft electroplated and ground to correct tolerance then I can decide which way to go.

In a dream last night, the simple answer came to solve the lathe levelling problem! It was a technique to eliminate even the sag of a test bar and dramatically reduce any bending effects on the lathe bed due to is weight. I was thinking about Bob's large diameter tubular test bar and realised that if his tube had unequal wall thickness it would sag different amounts depending on its rotational position.

Unfortunately the technique will not work with all makes of lathes (Myford's with the little oil reservoir gadgets on the headstock bearings would be tricky but sealed for life rolling bearings should be OK), Long bed lathes in workshops with limited headroom would be a challenge too, but otherwise all we have to do is change the lathe orientation so that the main spindle rotates in the vertical axis.

Who is going to be the first to try it?

Ian P

Hope I don't start dreaming lathes.