Member postings for pgk pgk

Definately not my day today.. mechanical failure and crashed one of my r/c helis and the alternator belt failed on my nissan when driving to the village..managed to limp home without cooking the engine..

I've got a bottle of Appletons rum that's been waiting for an excuse to be opened...

I've actually got the 'goop' just these tyres haven't needed it yet. But if memory serves it's better for tubeless and if used in tubes can stop patches sticking.. and it all depends on how big the holes are.. The quad bike has had one tyre gooped before as has the ride-on mower - for some reason tubeless tyres with tubes - but this is thorny ground and fixing it was a non starter with the hedgehog of thorns through the outer - so tube pulled and tubeless valve fitted.. which I'll likely have to buy for the current quad bike tyre. Just really annoying to find three on the same day.

Some days you wish you hadn't started a job <sigh>.

Lovely weather, signs of spring hitting Wales so i thought I ought to service all the garden/farm stuff that's been hibernating with just a monthyl start-up over winter.

First up was the push mower. Battled it to start after cleaning the plug and a drop of petrol in the cylinder and warmed it up. A large oil pan under the body and pull the drain plug. Oil spillt out, flowed around the top of the deck.. and ran over the high side! I cleaned up the mess. Re filled. Next was the generator which I found has a flat tyre. Pulled to a steep bit of slope..warmed it up, pulled the drain plug.. actually caught all the oil this time and transferred it from the pan to a large labelled bottle. Refilled with oil and tripped over the bottle of old oil. I cleaned up the mess.

Next was the rotorvator.. which went more or less OK. Then the ride-on mower..which has a punture! Then I notice I;ve labelled the oil bottle 'Waist oil' - what a pratt! Sod it, i thought. I fueled up the quad bike to take the dog for a run... it has a flat tyre...

I decided to leave the wood chipper, both chainsaws, two strimmers, hedge cutter and leaf blower for another day....

I'd have though the whole point of downforce here is just to prevent lift from flipping it over - as opposed to pinning drive wheels to the ground. So while there will be aspects of bunce and buffet on the smoothest terrian they can find I'd expect th downforce to be less than first guesses might suggest - or it'll end up a two deep scars across the sand and four flat bottom wheels

Surpersonic speeds do very weird things to centres of pressure over surfaces. Fastest i ever piloted was a single engine prop job in some basic aerobatics. Six times as fast in experimental stuff is nutter territory.

A jet engine does around 10K rpm, a dental turbine to 500K rpm and Trust is panning on wheels at 10.5K RPM so perhaps not such a biggie...

What percentage of drive goes through the wheels.. or ar they just there to stop the chassis scraping...?

From this newbie's viewpoint it depends which part of the journey you're really after. Whether it's the engine build, the whole build or the chassis, gearing and functional model.

I'd have though that in many way the issues Jason highlights re steam boilers and control men that ic is potentially simpler.. especially if wanting to avoid the concerns of lapping cylinders and design of ports by plaigerising existng cheap nitro engines or even using a bunch of their cylinders and pistons and 'just' creating the main lump and crank and carburettion.

For a taste of what you're into if doing the whole thing this thread is cool: **LINK**

My dad was the engineer.. or at least he had studied as one in former czechoslovakia and as a young man pre-war had rebuilt a Java motorcycle and then followed Hannibal's trail over the Alps before circumnavigating the Mediterranean on it - no mean feat in the early 30's, let alone the dangers of North Africa.

Then those Germans got uppity and he had to escape by many weeks in the bilges of a barge down the Danube before being interred by the British in Palestine and finally joining the RAF.

My earliest foray into engineering was as an eleven year old. We lived in a small village and the two other boys my age and I decided to circumnavigate the globe. Being eminently practical and realising our limitations when it came to ship building we decided to stick to raft construction. So followed the felling of a number of trees with hand hatchets and physically dragging our building material home. It was a solid bit of building.. some 8 feet wide and 20 feet long with a cabin.

Of course we then hit the snag that once built the thing was a tad heavy to shift for three lads. The river was only half a mile away so naturally we set about digging a canal to float her down there. Dad let us get on with it and only intervened when he saw our enthusiasm wasn't diminished and we were starting to approach the Road in front of the house with every intention of digging our canal right across it.. and then through Mr Wooding's back garden, his shed and greenhouse and the Garden Centre beyond..

.. so he helped me build my first canoe.

As for my career.. well i decided what i wanted to be from an early age.. and did it and ended up with my own business and only retired because i got fed up with all the modern employment legislation and staff bunking off for a good time rather than doing the job they're paid for and caring for the patients. I loved the job but couldn't take the rest of the associated nonsense - it was time to retire.

Parts of the job were a form of engineering: I've drilled and tapped enough holes in bones and teeth and bent, twisted and bolted a goodly amount of surgical steel into things so long as it could hang together in alignment until it fused.

Warco appear to list this one as the QCTP for your lathe

**LINK**

Not having used it I can make no comment.. except I do have the one you linked to on my lathe and that works fine although the sort with a couple on angle options without havng to loosen top nuts to twist the toolpost body would be even nicer...

Is it daft to suggest chucking it into a bucket of cheap brand cola for a few days first? That works to loosen small 2-stroke pistons that have been neglected...

I've used dental turbine handpieces.. 300K RPM with their burs to pop holes in surgical stainless. The handpieces aren't that expensive and the burs are cheap. There would be the nuisance of hitching up an air and water supply and making up a clamp for the accuracy one might need compared to hand held.....

I'm not familiar with the model but it strikes me that a dremel cuttng disc solves a lot of problems as does a jigsaw blade and for eally weird cases then cutting wire.

I always undertsood the difference was so that the foreshortened perspective made them look the same when tanding by the door. or is it different for houses with Chihuahuas or Wolfhounds?

'Tom's techniques' shows him with a pneumatic drill attached to the mill top with forward/reverse. I still don't see how that deals with disengaging a taper unless he's using a impact action on the undo. Whether that is more or less damaging to bearings......

It occurs to me that one could cut that exact profile on a lathe albeit it would be a tedious excercise in patience. I sometimes forget that one can hand turn the chuck through the arc required and use the slide for the flat. the tool grind would be interesting. A centra hole would releive pressure and allow the eventual manual undercuts.. equally tedious.

within the electromagnetic specturm x-rays also have their own range and energy. Indeed simplifying x-ray production as a voltage differential streaming electons to the anode to generate x-rays then the higher voltage gives 'harder' x-rays and indeed x-ray gneerators have an ally plate to block the low penetration stuff and reduce scatter.

Typical medical application about 45kvp for 3mAs to grab a pic of a cat's extremity onto modern digital detectors compared to say 110kvp for 1.5mAs to snatch a lower contrast but 'frozen' frame of a 50kg dog's heart

(peak kilovoltage for milliamp seconds)

I doubt sellotape x-rays would make it through bacofoil.

..and if you don't have a boring head or reamer and have to buy stuff then buy a reduced shank 26mm drill bit

Actually another way to do it that was demonstarted by toms techniques was to regrind a fly cutter to act as a boring bar. My smallest flycutter is 1 in diameter - so j..u..s..t doable. Or make a smaller flycutter or a one-off boring tool.

The only real answer is insulation. I spoilt myself with my shed..some 24x15 concrete base with 4in of celotex within the base. Timber framed with plastic cladding (no need to paint), a vapour barrier, 4in celotex all round including the ceiling and lined with 1/2 in ply and double glazed. 10mins after lighting the woodburner I have to bank in down, crack a window open and work in a t-shirt. The biggest cost was the celotex but frankly the power saving and comfort more than make up for that. Also zero condensation and zero corrosion.

There are cheaper, less easy and less efficient and less fire safe insulation options .. from egg trays to packaging beads where the budget needs apply.

I have a vague memory of anthrax spores being able to survive in ivory so be careful cutting it.

feel free to shoot down an outrageous idea from a newbie. But if you bore a round hole, then create a temporary dam to the level needed and fill with a mix of slow epoxy and fine filings it'd overflow and settle to the point needed. Dress off any overflow...???

Jesse,

I had cut my slots successfully and made the parts. This was a question as to other, possibly better ways to do it. I think my limiting factor was a lack of flood coolant and courage.

Bob,

I will play with chain drilling some scrap but chain drilling 45mm isn't that quick either ( well it is if one just rams the drill through without clearing chips or applying oil )and this preliminary attempt makes me think that it'd be better to do it from both sides for that depth. I shall try your every other hole approach next time I experiment.

pgk