Member postings for Bob Unitt 1

I've nearly finished the rebuild, but I've hit a snag... For some reason the governor drive belt has, over its 20 years spent in a box, grown nearly an inch longer - much too long for use. I can't remember where I got it, and I'm not sure what it's made of - it's a black stretchy round material, about 0.050" in diameter. Does anyone know where I'd get a replacement, or some alternative material I could use ?

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 11/01/2022 22:48:28

Might be worth a look at the Reeves 'Trojan'. This was the first engine I made, and that was done on a 19th-century treadle lathe (teaches you the importance sharp tools...)

I've had problems with my Reeves 'Lady Stephanie' castings, quality dropped alarmingly shortly before the old Reeves folded. I wonder if there's some old stock still being sold ?

I have to confess to leaving it in too long, I was going to take it out after supper, but had a touch of 'red-wine amnesia' which meant it stayed in overnight .

The pickling vinegar seems to be to be doing the job, albeit slowly. I'm leaving a test-piece in it overnight, fingers crossed.

I have a discolouration problem after using Evapo-Rust on some bright shiny steel parts (see attachment) - they've gone dark gray (almost black) despite having no apparent rust beforehand. I can get rid of some of it with Scotch-Brite and a fibreglass brush, but a lot of the parts are too small (e.g. the brass bolts in the attached picture are 14 BA), and I can't use it on 10 & 12 BA nuts and bolts. Is there any chemical way of of getting it back to the initial bright & shiny, or am I going to have to paint them. The Evapo-Rust was not perfectly fresh, but hadn't been used a great deal.

They're both alcohol, it's just that the isopropyl one is a bit stronger...

In this context, it's as Jon Lawes said. In a non-technical context, it's India Pale Ale

I thought that time-limit was just for spraying ? I know the 1-part primer is good for a month before it loses the ability to etch, and was wondering if the 2-part is just the components of the 1-part in a form which will last longer until mixed ?

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 08/12/2021 14:36:38

Does anyone know how long Phoenix 2-part Etch Primer remains usable for brush application once mixed, if kept in a sealed container ? I tried emailing them with this question, but no response

The set of Rob Roy drawings I had 20 years ago were imperial, I don't know if they've been redrawn since.

I have that tool as well, wasn't sure how to use it - thanks.

I have an ancient (20 years ?) Greenwood Q-cut parting tool which has just lost it's insert (it pinged-off when tryting to part some very strange aluminium alloy). I have a couple of unused inserts, but I'm not sure how they fit.

Can anyone let me have a copy of the original instructions for this tool, as mine have disappeared ?

Alternatively, can someone please post a close-up photo of the tool, so I can see how the insert is supposed to fit ?

ETA: I've just discovered there's more than one model of this tool. I think mine is a Mk 2, as it does not have a clamping screw for the insert.

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 28/11/2021 12:45:37

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 28/11/2021 12:45:54

I've just bought myself an Xmas present of a set of Kennions 'Tina' drawings, castings and construction series. Does anyone have any advice on corrections to the drawings or construction articles (or any other traps for the unwary) before I start making swarf ?

I have to say they are some of the nicest castings I've seen, most impressive.

I had a similar requirement the other day, but for an external thread. I got round it by first screwcutting the thread to a little bit oversize, and then using the die to get the correct thread-form. For an internal thread that size you could probably take a similar approach, by screwcutting a little bit undersize before finally running the tap through.

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 21/11/2021 16:44:46

I used Rustins Metal Lacquer on a cannon I made about 15 years ago, which sits on the mantelpiece. Neither the ferrous nor non-ferrous parts have lost their finish since then, despite frequent handling.

Thanks for all the replies. The reason I asked was because I have a set of 4 BA capscrews which neither my metric nor my imperial allen keys fit, but I have an allen key supplied as 4 BA by a model engineering firm which fits them perfectly.

Does anyone know where I can get BA Allen Keys, preferably in a set ? I've tried the usual suppliers, but no luck

Incidentally - if anyone is contemplating building a Lady Stephanie of their own, I have a list of all the editions of EIM covering the construction, along with which components are described in in which edition. PM me if you'd like a copy.

(Not sure if it's OK to mention EIM here, my apologies if it isn't.)

I seem to have forgotten more than I can remember ... I used to pickle silver-soldered brass items with a solution of culinary citric acid dissolved in warm water, and it also cleaned the bare brass up nicely, but I can't remember the strength. Can anyone suggest the appropriate proportion of acid (powder) to water ?

I'm afraid these are the only other two I still have, the rest being lost in the mists of time (these were taken in 2001)

The castings are a bit rough - this was shortly before the original Reeves crashed, and the quality had been going downhill for a while... I'm tempted to scrap that beam, and build a new one from scratch from bar-stock, but I'll get it  all  finished first.

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 16/11/2021 10:19:49

Edited By Bob Unitt 1 on 16/11/2021 10:20:22