Member postings for Breva

David,

Try this for info on dismantling etc. but really on a new chuck you'd be wiser to demand a working replacement. If you tamper with it and it doesn't cure it they won't take it back.

**LINK**

John

Wolfie, those three innocent looking questions can have very complicated answers.

To keep it simple, and hopefully not simplistic, an engine needs a supply of a mix of c.16 parts air to 1 part petrol for normal running. There is normally a large hole through the centre of the carb where this mixture is created. The air comes from outside through an airfilter and the petrol is fed in through small holes called jets. These jets can vary in size of the orifice and from small to large of course supply varying amounts of petrol.

A simple carb has the jets or orifices calculated in the factory and they cannot be varied. eg many cheap lawnmowers etc. They are calculated to work well over a fixed speed range.

A step up from that on machines which need to operate on a wider speed range will have a basic setup to control the mixture at three critical points ie. at starting from cold, then at tick-over (or idling speed) and lastly at full open throttle.      At tick-over a small Idling jet feeds out a small amount of petrol into the airstream. This can usually be adjusted by means of a tapered pointed screw, the nose of which can be screwed into the little hole or jet to increase or decrease its size and consequently the flow of petrol that it delivers. Generally called the idle/ mixture screw, you set it when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature. Once set you usually leave it alone.

So until the engine warms up another scenario prevails. A cold engine starts better on a rich mixture, ie. more petrol in the air/petrol mix. To achieve this there is often a flap of some sort called the Choke which restricts the flow of air so the mix going into the engine drops to maybe 10 to 1 for starting purposes. As the engine gets going and warms up you would reduce the choke amount and after a few minutes the engine will run on the idle jet as above.

The third state of running would see the engine at full speed and running on what would usually be called the Main jet. This is usually the one you find sticking up slightly into the mail hole through the carb. To vary the amount of fuel drawn through the main jet there is often a tapered Needle that is set with its nose partly inserted in the main jet orifice. The more this needle is inserted into the main jet, the smaller the opening and vice versa. This needle is controlled by the accelerator cable and can be raised or lowered by the operator to increase or decrease the flow through the Main jet and thereby regulate the speed of the engine.

To get quickly from running on idling speed to running full speed there is often as Clive states, an accelerator pump that gives a little squirt of fuel that helps things along.

There are many refinements and adjustments on the above. A good source for more detailed explanation is:

**LINK**

John

Edited By Breva on 30/04/2016 00:12:37

Edited By Breva on 30/04/2016 00:16:56

I spotted this little gadget and wondered if it would be useful for hardening and tempering small items.

**LINK**

Some interesting items on their site.

John

First record of wheel balancing.

Those early horses were fast!

John

My own system in Win 7 and I found it reliably and easy to use. I couldn't be bothered with Win8.

I have heard plenty of complaints about Win 10 from friends.

It seems logical to me to wait until the last minutes of the free version before installing Win 10, if even then.

Historically, Microsoft have taken some time to iron out bugs in new operating systems, so I let them get on with it and save myself the possible hassle.

John

Let me add my best wished to all those above and to all those who kindly have shared their knowledge on the Forum.

Also best wishes for a full recovery to David.

John

James,

I remember a "Boys book of Make and Do" from the 50s. I wonder is that the one you are looking for?

John

I have a Dimplex model 2000 MKOC for quite a few years and it has given great service. Much more efficient than flashier looking models. Mine is dark brown, about 14" square and about 18" high. Don't know if they still produce these but they work well if you can find one.

John

Glenn,

Have a look at this site. It should answer some of your questions and gives the full sequence on making an acetal /delrin nut.

John

**LINK**

Warwick Wilton,

That unit you have sounds interesting. Any chance of a few more details on your set-up?

John

Maybe a little short on ground clearance?

Brian, from my limited experience green wheels are slower than diamond at dressing the brazed carbide tips. Another thing I noticed was that they were inclined to slightly round the cutting edge. That might have something to do with the soft bond on the green grit wheels.

All in all, I found that the cheap diamond laps/stones from the like of Aldi/Lidl did a good quick touch-up on the tips. I'd keep an eye out for one that was box shaped with four different grit sizes along the 4 sides. At about £8 they are great value and seem to last well. Using the finest side, 200# I think is fine for final dressing the edge and the tool cuts cleanly. Personally I gave up on the green wheel for dressing tips after using the diamond stone.

Robin,

The bench you suggest would be more than adequate.

Consider Bob's suggestion above and maybe to avoid any movement due to changes in humidity why not use a bit of kitchen worktop with laminated top. I would put a coat or two of paint or varnish on the bottom surface to seal it. It comes about 2" thick and if supported by 4x2s around the edge and one across the middle it will never budge.

If you use single 4x2 for the frame and sheet it with 12mm ply screwed and glued you will eliminate any tendency to move and you have useful storage for all your bits.

John

Dave ,

One advantage you might find with the ER40 is that you can often pick up cutters etc with thicker shafts from industry that are too big for people with smaller machinery. As a result there is less competition for them at auction.

I use one on my mill. Got my from Amadeal and have had no problems at all. I would suggest you get the ballbearing losing nut as opposed to the standard one. It is much easier to bring up the required tightness. They need more pressure than you might think.

John

I agree with Martin's point above. It seemed a generous offer of time and effort at the time and if personal problems made it not possible to fulfill the offer, well, I for one am just grateful that his problems are not my problems. I wish the man well.

John

""I then loaded the TIFFs into PIPP which automatically centres the image (among other things).

PIPP produced a new set of cropped tiffs that I put into Autostakkert! 2 which aligns them and produces a final image........."

Neil,

Thanks for the detailed info. It sure is labour intensive and only for the committed and knowledgeable. In my case, it bought a line from that much loved poem of Goldsmith's to mind:

"And still they gazed, and still the wonder grew

That one small head could carry all he knew.,"

John

Very fine picture Neil.

Are those circular marks with striations out from them caused by past impacts from space, or do we know?

If so they gave it quite a smack!

John

Clive......."A gun making friend of mine would engrave, 'Fecit' + (Name) around the muzzle of his guns"

That seems a very appropriate signiture for some of my disasters! I might leave my name off them though.

John

Nathan, The only ones of those I can see if for round pole and there's little room in there for adapters.

Mike, that is exactly the info I needed. Many thanks for that link.

MichaelG, I never gave micro switches a thought even though I have quite a few stashed away. I always assumed that being small they would only be for light loads. Must have another rummage.

Very grateful again to all who replied,

John

Thanks to all for your input.

Neil, and Muzzer. You have given me a better idea of the "why" of it, thanks. Yes this switch will be to just cut off the current drain while the bike is stored so the contacts have just got to be robust enough to carry the load to the instrument panel and IC while the bike is starting/ running. I suppose I should check out the maximum load through it with an ammeter before I do anything.

Nathan, I have boughtt one of those switches but they are quite large and clumsy, more suitable for under the bonnet of a Land Rover!

Thank you for the link, V8Eng. I will have a look at the site. I knew though that I would learn more by throwing out the question to the Forum.

Alan, I have one, but last winter I thought that I'd top up the charge once a week or so. Well, due to senior moments in that regard I have now got a new battery fitted! You are of course right about the charging regime but I just don't like leaving electrical gadgets plugged in, but point taken.

John

Edited By Breva on 19/05/2015 23:29:07