Member postings for CotswoldsPhil

I now have a sound basic Super 7 MK 2 having traded my almost mint ML7 last year, I don't feel the need or additional expense of power-cross-feed or even a gearbox; setting up the machine is part of my Model Engineering activity. I did however want to access the additional higher spindle speeds for smaller work.

Someone mentioned proper bearings are fitted on the ML7R and Super 7 - I would argue that they are different to allow the higher speed range - the bearing design on the ML7 appears to have served very well for many years, especially if you stick to the speed limitations and keep them oiled. The white metal construction also continues to serve very well in millions of car engines.

Phil

There was a discussion about if this Super 7 had power cross-feed. It was established it has not...looks like it would be worth about 1/2 as much again if it had; last night a Super 7 Power Cross-feed saddle (less cross and top slides sold for £485!

Where will it end?

Phil

I needed to case harden the tiny ratchet pawls for the oiler on my Minnie Traction engine. I used bone-meal (from the local garden centre) packed around the components in a short length of thin walled tube and heated the package for about 10 minutes, before quenching.

Did it work, I think so... a week or so later, I needed a bit of 1/16th mild steel for something else, so found a bit in odd's and sods tin and put in the mill. The 3/8 end-mill would not touch it - I had previously done a test with some bits of MS and somehow consigned them to the odd's and sods tin!

Phil

Ian P posted...

I'm sure you are correct, but until my motors (and spares) go phutt with magic smoke I can't comment. I will eventually go the 3 phase VFD route as the price of a suitable replacement single phase motor can be quite high.

My requirement is for small work so the S7 fits the bill quite well, and is not as intimidating as some larger machines can be for a self taught ME - but not if I had to pay current asking prices.

Phil

I also have a theory about Myford prices...

They appear to be being treated like classic cars and a market has/is developing.

This is particularly evident in the prices for accessories, I recently watched a headstock crank handle, reportedly Myford original, make £96 - that is not a typo. Disappointed, I made a simple expanding adapter for the crank-handle used on the mill. It also doubles as a mount for a change-wheel for simple dividing.

I think I mentioned elsewhere that I would probably buy a Boxford or similar sized CE machine if I was starting again. The issue (for me) with modern variable speed machines is potentially expensive repairs to motors and controller boards. The longevity of single phase induction motors is well proven.

Phil

Anybody got a set of castings or unfinished Quorn project under the bench I can complete before the 50th anniversary?

Phil

Hi, again

I've just trawled 3bay for ML7 with gearbox (sold) and only found one.

**LINK**

Prices on 3bay are very varied and probably reflects local demand as paul 1950 noted earlier.

Another route is to contact one of the dealers advertised in the magazine.

Phil

Hi Nick,

I sold an ML7 using the classified's on here last year. Your father's machine as described, has a gearbox, clutch and comes with a rack operated tail-stock all desirable accessories. As mentioned above, take some clear photos and describe it well. Good Myfords are sought after by some people, often now seen as collector pieces (sad to say).

Here is the album (as an example for you) which was used to help describe my machine. **LINK**

Check the sold prices for ML7's on Ebay to get a feel for the value, please note: Myford Super Sevens especially, are fetching silly money at present.

Regards

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 17/04/2015 19:01:57

> I'm sure the EMG-12 is a capable machine but it's well out of reach of the average ME's pocket.

I seem to have thrown a spanner in the works, perhaps I should have said my pocket.

I certainly would not pay £9k for a new, or even £2k for a used basic Myford S7, even if I could afford it. Current asking prices are silly. I suspect many Myfords and accessories are being bought up and then stored in the hope of increasing in value - what a waste.

If I was starting again I would probably go for a used Boxford. It's the size/weight issue which seems to be overlooked when passions run high about Myfords.

Back on topic >>>>> Should such adverts for expensive kit be excluded? I don't think so. The illustration of clever/novel engineering can sometimes be incorporated into your own projects.

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 12/04/2015 07:59:22

I like many on here I'm time rich, but cash poor...

I'm sure the EMG-12 is a capable machine but it's well out of reach of the average ME's pocket.

I've just completed a version of Harold Hall's grinding jig/table and have made a half decent job of resharpening (as a challenging test piece) a well broken 1/4 inch 4 flute end-mill in less than 5 minutes . I expect that I could do the same with a 3 or 6 tooth cutter in a hex adapter, even carbide, with an appropriate diamond wheel and any size you like.

Plus, Harold's design can be adapted for a variety of tasks especially useful in a small workshop.

Well pleased; thank you Harold.

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 11/04/2015 19:34:53

Hi Andrew,

I would have thought that you already have extensive broaching capability in your workshop, based on the projects you seem to have on the go.

The direct link to the type I made is actually here **LINK**.

Such a simple tool can produce workable results. I've thought of some improvements for version 2 based on the experience so far.

Regards

Phil

Following the Square Hole discussion some weeks ago, I completed a rotary broaching tool and cut a very successful hexagonal hole - thanks Mike Cox. **LINK**

The block is held in a QTCH and pushed through using the tail-stock. The cut-out you can see at the rear is for setting the height.

I made a couple of spare blanks whilst I was set up. I changed from Mike's description of cutting the broach, using the side of a carbide end-mill and got a very clean finish with no burrs and IMO less chance of the cutter moving whilst being formed. Soft soap on the cutter during heating for hardening stopped any scale very well. I just need to fit a bigger brass/bronze screw to aid extraction.

Here is the result of my first test - very satisfied.

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 04/04/2015 16:46:10

Hi Chris,

I managed to get the plates for my Minnie laser etched from a 450dpi vector drawing which I created. The job was done as a test during the setting up of a Class 4 Laser etching system. Unfortunately, this source is unavailable, unless I can persuade the MD of the company to offer ME plate making as a service. I'm sure there are other commercial laser etching services. Here is a photo of the cylinder makers plate, the ballpoint pen gives an idea of scale. The smoke-box plates are just as good, I've even got a cutting line.

I'm very pleased with the outcome, which is very well defined; they achieved about 10 thou + depth with 2 passes which is about scale and deep enough to take some thin paint. Brass is apparently quite difficult to process because it is so reflective.

I must set to and get them cut out and fitted, I've got side tracked making a cutter grinder.

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 02/04/2015 17:06:25

Hello David and welcome,

I have been using an R8 spindle mill (Naerok) for a number of years with just 4 * R8 collets (imperial in my case); no need for an ER chuck + collets to start with, link ArcEuro - 4 piece collet set - 6,10,12 & 16 @ £16.33, they grip end-mills very well, and take up less headroom.

An R8 adapter for slitting saws would extend your capability, not sure if the machine is delivered with a drill chuck,

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 31/03/2015 19:57:06

Hi

**LINK**  m-machine used to be included in the advert pane here >>>>

I ordered from them last time I needed stock and received very good service. No connection apart from a satisfied customer

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 30/03/2015 18:46:39

Here is my attempt at the completed device. It's balanced to within the weight of an M4 nut.

The main problem I find with it is, I can't get close enough (to the rotating mass) to achieve the accuracy I can achieve with a sharp point held in the chuck.  The other is I've yet to find a suitable white marking fluid Correction fluid (TippEx) flakes off. 

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 26/03/2015 21:00:25

I had a crack at building a laser centre finder from a £3 pet shop pointer. After some experimentation I found that reducing the battery voltage made the most difference to the flare. I simply reduced the battery count to 2 by substituting one of the three LR44's with a brass dummy battery. I also reduced the aperture (the brass appendage can just be seen in photo) in the laser's path; a No. 58 drill I think, which gave me a well defined dot as shown in the photo.

Regards

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 24/03/2015 19:51:44

I've owned an R8 spindle Mill Drill (Korean) for about 30 years. 5* R8 Imperial Collets provide most of my end-mill / tool holding needs - 4 more to go metric, about £20. To extract is simply a 1/4 turn on the draw-bar nut, a light tap with the ring end of the 3/4 AF spanner (already in your hand) on the button at the top of the draw-bar and the collet is free, but retained ready to remove the cutter. No need for a collet chuck which saves valuable head-room, on a small mill. The R8 collets appear to hold end-mills very well.

I'm very happy with R8 tooling.

Regards

Phil

I'm waiting for a delivery from ArcEuro so have time to burn!

I'm finding this thread quite informative as I've never done any indexing above the number of spokes on my Minnie's wheels - so far.

A method I remember from ME many years ago (using readily available components) is to wrap a length of bandsaw blade with the appropriate number of teeth, around a disk of plywood, it would be MDF today, and index on the teeth. Clearly getting the joint/overlap accurate is important but perfectly do-able. Improved accuracy could be achieved by using multiples of the required final number and indexing accordingly. Also, would it be possible to starting indexing between 90deg and 270deg (the joint being at 0deg) and then resetting for the second half so as to avoid the overlap?

Regards

Phil

Hi Brian,

So that you know you are not alone...

After soldering, my wheels leached flux from the Bakers Solder Paste at the root of the spokes for a long time. I think this is why I have avoided painting for so long.

If I was doing it again, I would use slow set epoxy resin, I think I mentioned this in an earlier post.

I'm sure someone here will be able to advise what method to use to remove the flux.

This is what mine looks like after some 30 years...

Regards

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 19/03/2015 11:27:03