Member postings for Roger Hulett

Thanks for the information. I have Emailed M-Machine for a quote.

Schedule 10 pipe at 2 1/2" nominal does not give me enough metal to achieve my desired size, and the other sizes are way off..

Hoping M-Metal can help.

Thankyou.

I wonder if anyone can help me ? I need a small piece of steel tube. 68mm o/d, 65mm i/d 70mm long. I have scoured through all of the steel suppliers,both tube and pipe, every last advert in Fleabay but to no avail. I know the size is or was manufactured as I have two pieces,but I need three for the job. I have got a nice piece of 75mm round,but to convert most of it to swarf would be heartbreaking. I will pay a fair price plus carriage. Please look in your offcuts boxes. Thankyou.

I have just been given a Parvalux electric motor with a right angle drive gearbox.

Can anyone suggest a practical use for this or should I stick it on fleabay?

I may have misled you by implying that a lathe is not available,as it certainly is,I was under the misapprehension that cutting a cam could only be machined on a milling machine with a rotary table.

Would cam cutting be easier and more accurate if machined on a lathe ?,and what is the technique for doing this.?

I need to clamp a steel disk in my rotary table/indexer's three jaw chuck and mount it all on my small horizontal mill in order to cut a cam wheel.

However,even with the table turned down to it's lowest point,there is insufficient space to fit it inbetween the table and the cutter.

Any suggestions ? Thankyou.

Edited By Roger Hulett on 26/08/2016 16:55:29

Just got a quote for 2 off trapezoidal (Acme) 1/2" x 10tpi nuts for my vintage milling machine !!!!!! £175.00

It is quite true. The engine is 140cc single cylinder o.h.v. air cooled. The bulk of the engine is on the right hand side of the front wheel and is counterbalanced by a large cast iron flywheel on the left hand side. The spindle of the front wheel is linked to the engine directly by gear wheels.There is no clutch or gearing. Starting is by raising the valve lifter and pushing.The combined oil/petrol tank is mounted over the front wheel.There is no brake on the front wheel but the rear wheel has the benefit of a band brake.I understand that the early models (1919) did not have a seat for the rider and this refinement was only introduced in 1920. I have most of one Mobile Pup,3/4 of another and 1/2 of a third. I am not an engineer by trade and have had to learn/muddle my way through a great variety of engineering and casting techniques,and as I live in a fairly remote part of Wales,I rely very heavily on You Tube.

If anyone would like to correspond with me on the subject of the renovation of a Mobile Pup,I would be most grateful.

The reason for my query was to find out if by chance there  were any  more out there. There are examples  in the three major vehicle museums, I have a couple and i recently made contact with another private owner. So I was just hoping.

Edited By Roger Hulett on 28/07/2016 10:14:43

Just wondered whether anyone on this forum knows anything about these.

Ref my previous post regarding cam milling.

Can anyone advise the best method of clamping the workpiece to the rotary table. I only have a small horizontal mill and there is insufficient space to mount a chuck on the table.The gear side of the piece is 6mm thick.To use a swan neck clamp would obstruct the slitting saw. The rotary table has a 2MT centre hole.

There is already a 1/2" hole drilled. As a result of this problem I was looking at buying a boring bar from RDG. this is described as a 12mm shank boring bar.......but......there are three options CCMT 06 DCMT 07 TCMT 11. What do these options indicate ? RDG state they are all perfect for hole turning.

I am having a problem drilling an 11/16 hole. Because of the length of the drill bit (I have had to get a blacksmiths shanked drill bit) after a few turns it becomes apparent that the hole is not straight. I do not have a chuck that will hold an 11/16 bit. Any comments will be very much appreciated. Thankyou.

What is the most accurate way to hold a gear wheel in a 3jaw chuck?

Now I'm in a quandary. I have two alternatives,but which is the best and less likely to end in tears, for a novice ?

Collet chuck,milling cutter and rotary table set in a vertical position,or, side & face cutter with rotary table set horizontally ?

I will use Andrew Johnson's method. I have ER32 collets and collet chuck. If successful I will post the pics. If not successful I will keep trying until I do get it right. After all it's only bits of metal !!!

That is an excellent set of instructions...however...how do I adapt to a horizontal mill ?

I will cut the gear after I have achieved the cam. I have learned a lot about gear cutting since I bought the rotary table and I am fairly confident I will not stuff it up. I am not confident about milling the cam,so if that is a failure it is easier to make another blank and not have wasted my time on cutting the gear ! If that makes sense.

Yes. The original is in one piece,so I will stick to that.

The engine that I need these cams for is a 1921 single cylinder o.h.v. 142cc.

My rotary table is a Warco HV4 4" with chuck and 3 dividing plates.

Attached is a photo of the gear cam wheel.

Where can I find instructions on how to mill cams. I have a small horizontal milling machine and a dividing head. The table of the mill will only move sideways and backwards,it will not tilt as the You Tube mill does when cutting a cam.