Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Yes you can do that as an alternative. It all depends on how you set up and how often it is being removed and replaced etc.

Yes when vertical is on centre. And for internal is at the back of the work piece. If you have lots of holders and don't have to change tools during the making of a part it becomes not needed as they can be set from skimming the end face of some solid stock.

Find out which is the concentric register and use that one. Sometimes the outside is more cosmetic than functional, ie not done at the same time as the 2 inner diameters.

What ever clearance is on the register is the permissible error in mounting each time. One way around this is to make it with some small amount of interference or as measured size for size. Then use castor oil to aid in the assembly. It will require some form of extraction to remove, but will be the most concentric that you can have , apart from matching precision tapers.

Neil

Emco are great little machines and quite accurate as well. Lots can be made with them, especially if you get the 4 jaw chuck and the milling attachment etc.

I now use a piece of plastic strip. Can be made from plastic shim, or cut from a lid of an ice cream container.

I changed to plastic, as it wont damage a pcd or cbn insert. It works quite accurately for both internal or external tools or stock in a drill press or mill.

What ruins small carbide cutters is sudden jerky movements , like from backlash in the table, or just not winding the table at a uniform rate. Small cutters is small feed rates. They still cut even at 1200 rpm. The other important aspect is removing the very small swarf . So having the shopvac close to the cutting area to vacuum up the stuff and a valve from an airline hooked up to be blowing a small amount of air onto the cutter is also very effective in removing the swarf from small cutters. This will extend the life of the cutter considerably. I find air to be better than using loads of coolant on small cutters.

Neil

You can always make your own collets and make special step collets from 4140 or 4340 as it comes already pre hardened but still very workable with HSS tooling etc

Neil

The arbour I made , has the 25.42mm bore, that is 10mm deep. It then has a M8 tap hole a further 16mm deep.

The cap has the 25.40mm spigot, 8mm long, and at the shoulder, it is continued in an under cut way for 0.3mm deep, just a little more than the tool radius. The shoulder face is under cut out to about a 3mm land. In my case the arbour shaft is 19mm and the body is Ø40mm. I made it with the spigot on the nut, as the nut could then be thinner on the underside, and has the capscrew counter bored in it. Longer caps can be made for a gang of saws if required. Make the cap from a different steel to the body, so that it is less likely to pick up in any way. Like 4340 for the body and free cutting MS for the Cap.

Neil

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 17/06/2019 20:26:16

Gauge plate needs to be bright orange in heat, Yellow is too hot , bright red is too cold. A low light room will give a better result than in day light or with bright lights on. Quench in oil is fine, you need enough oil, so that the oil does not get hotter than 30c or so, otherwise the volume is too small and the quench is inadequate. Temper in the oven at 150c to 180 c, or if heating with a torch when clean from any oil and dry, is a pale straw colour. Allow for sharpening of the edge after the heat treatment. The edge will be rounded off and burnt away from the heating of the part. If you have stainless gauze to wrap the part in for the heating will significantly protect the very sharp edges or corners. Best to remove the cage just prior to quenching, as it will hamper in the quench cooling.

Neil

If you get a chisel point tungsten carbide drill, run it at around 800 to 1000 rpm, take peck cuts and have compressed air or the vacuum cleaner hose close to the hole, will work just fine. When it breaks out the other side, is when you want to use the feed stop , and adjust it 0.1mm at a time or so, will give a clean exit hole as well. The stub carbide drills are not too badly priced if it is under 5mm diameter.

Here is what I set up.

Re threaded the M5 to the ba # of the oil points. I found that the length of the tubes needed to be the same, or else the shorter tube side got most of the oil.

Elevated to slowly feed down.

I had the MT2 adapter. It was ok for just short things. I chopped off the MT2 part and just hold it in the 3 Jaw chuck now. Very happy with it. I can put upto 5/8 stock through the S7 spindle into the collet chuck if needed.

I also have the smaller ER11 on a parallel shank to also go into the 3 jaw chuck.I use the ER11 for stuff under 7mm diameter. The bigger parts go into the larger ER20 or ER32 holders. The collet size I use the most on the things I make is the ER11 and most used in the 3,4,5,6mm collets.

The face plate mounted collet block I did not like very much. What I did not like about it, was the bed going forward over the gap area of the Myford lathe. With the collet holders in the 3 jaw chuck, the saddle never gets to the edge of the lathe bed. The Mt2 part was turned into a stop for the 3 jaw chuck and Er32 collet adapter.

Neil

I set up a gravity oil feeding system to the ways on my Myford. I keep the oil pot full when in use. I lower the pot to bed level between using it. It keeps the ways wet, and I wipe it down with a paper towel often. Works very well.

Initially I had one of each type, and then settled on the Dickson type for all 3 lathes. I have since sold the wedge type . The wedge one was easier to make holders for, but was not as consistent for me as the dickson holder.

Continued exposure to grinding dust will give you miners lung. The same thing from wood working and car paint refinishing. It is all basically the same thing. Stuff getting into your lungs that will cause an otherwise early departure. I can recall a test being done with exposure to Beryllium from grinding and milling it, making injection tools in the early 80's. The grinding wheel dust from wheel dressing and the tungsten dust from making D'bits was the highest risks. When 1 cutter was resharpened, it could not show a particle count. Making a cutter from the blank was measurable on that day. Initially it was a 1 morning test, that lead to a 1 month test. In that whole time, they had no Be gas collected that they could measure. Loads of carbide, and diamond wheel and regular grinding wheel dust. Also lots of BeCu dust from the surface grinding, but no Be only.

Neil

It depends. If it is just a touch up of a tool, No.

Yes if it is taking a regular drill to a flat bottom , or vice versa, or making a new form tool from a blank.

The same for linishing, if it is just a very small thing and less than a couple of minutes , and a 1 off, Then No.

If I have lots of parts to linish, I wear a mask. Going to install a vacuum collection point on the linisher for the new shop though, and for the bandsaw as well.

Neil

Basically drill chucks are for centre cutting tools like, drills, reamers and centre drills.

A collet chuck is a Milling cutter tool holding chuck. Collet chucks can hold milling cutters and other cutters as well, like slitting saws on an arbore etc. They can also hold very well drill bits and centre drills as well.

They both have their places. Collet chucks are a very good investment in the machine tool.

Neil

Item 39 is a screw collar and has a little grub screw to secure it on the cross slide screw. This sets the back lash of the cross slide screw itself. If this comes loose , then the effective backlash on the cross slide becomes huge. Undo the grub screw about 1/2 turn. Then tighten it against the casting until the leadscrew does not turn. Then undo it a little bit , so that the screw can rotate. Do up the grub screw. If this clearance is correct, then it could be else where , like the screws of the casting being loose or the leadscrew nut screws are loose.

Neil

So I got some ER11 collet nuts. Had a piece that needed to run quite true. When I used one of the new collet nuts, it was out by more than 0.05mm. Used the genuine ER nut and it was fine.

So I set up made a spacer and checked the original with my set up and the taper on the nut ran within 0.01mm, the new ones were out by as much as 0.1mm. So I set up and recut the 30 deg front taper using the thread and the back shoulder as a reference. Picture shows the inverted bore tool and the compound set at 30 deg. Using a Regofix ER11 collet holder with the sleeve spacer for the nut to seat against.

I also set up and trimmed the outside with it just on the thread of the mandrel 1st. Cutting the inner 30 deg taper was a second op.

Now they are just as good as the original collet nut.

Neil

Thanks for the replies, I will try the pocket mags site.

Neil L