Member postings for Steve Papworth

The link that JasonB gave doesn't have the Tiverton club included.

All the details of the club can be found on their web site:

http://tivertonmodelengineering.org.uk/

Regards...Steve

Julian

You are right that the Drummond M is a great lathe. As you know, I also have one, albeit with some modifications.

Prof. Dennis Chaddock's one was somewhat special, being an Admiralty spec, which included a power cross-feed. I think that this can be seen in some of the pictures accompanying his articles in ME. Probably the Quorn ones.

John,

Returning to your original post, who told you that you need to add a hand pump and axle pump to the engine, if it is already fitted with two injectors?

Boiler inspectors normally require a minimum of 2 methods of feeding water, and if your injectors are working, you satisfy that requirement.

Admittedly, a hand pump is useful, but you should maybe consider whether you need it. Certainly, adding an axle pump could be quite a major job, requiring stripping down the chassis.

P.S. If you want to meet a bunch of friendly model engineers, you should maybe consider visiting the Tiverton club. See the web site at **LINK**

Where in Devon, Norman?

It's sunny here too - just north of Okehampton. Actually, it's pretty hot, as I have been cutting the grass, which seems to have grown a foot during my holidays.

Seeing the picture of Ady1's Drummond flat bed, I thought I'd share a picture of mine.

When I made the new apron (which includes a 2:1 gearing so the saddle is more controllable with the wheel, and the saddle moves the "right" way), I took the opportunity of adding lead-screw guards, as shown. Because the new apron is made from steel flats, there is a nice flat surface at the top - perfect for attaching the guards, made from folded aluminium.

Edited By Steve Papworth on 02/09/2015 15:24:43

Having built a 5" Stanier 2-6-4, I started by enlarging the "Jubilee" drawings (from ME), but after acquiring a dimensioned GA (published in Railway Modeller, I think), I realised that Martin Evans had made everything very over scale.

Send me a PM, and I can send you a PDF of the GA, as well as a JPG of a side-on photo of a full size one, just out of the shops. (The same picture that was published in ME).

Steve

I have used the hollow silver steel drill solution before, and it really works.

The more important issue may be to ensure you don't snap the tap in the first place. Most breakages occur because the tap is wrenched slightly sideways, and the solution to this is to use a tapping guide of some sort.

I use my GHT Tapping and Staking machine for all small tapping jobs, and it really is brilliant at what it does.

I think Duncan has hit the proverbial nail on the head - the great thing about returning the water to the tender (or side/saddle tank) is that you should position the return so you can see the end of the pipe.

So when the bypass is closed, the pump is (hopefully) putting water into the boiler, and no water comes out of the return. Opening the bypass valve allows water to squirt from the end of the return pipe into the water reservoir. And adjusting the bypass (evidenced by the amount of water squirting from the pipe) enables you to control the amount of water actually going into the boiler.

Hi Geoff.

Thanks for the kind comments. Yes, it's the same 'M' type. I'm still very happy with it, and with the big gap in the bed, I can turn stuff that you wouldn't be able to fit on an ML7.

Regards...Steve

I just wonder how many "Tich", "Juliet" and "Rob Roy" engines are out there, totally un-used because the beginner that built them can't keep them in steam.

Yes, you should build an engine that you like or admire, but make sure it's of a reasonable size to be partially forgiving when being run by a tyro.

My "Rob Roy" has got 7 fire-tubes and when everything is clean, I can just keep it in steam, but after an afternoon's running, one or two tubes can get blocked, and then it's a losing battle.

My advice would be a tender engine or a large tank engine. For the latter, I have always thought Martin Evan's "William" might be a suitable first engine, as the extra length gives more reserves in the boiler.

Edited By Steve Papworth on 02/04/2015 17:50:26

How surprising. I made exactly the same type of tool, but for cutting 1/32" slots in 3/16" silver steel for 'E' clips for the valve gear of my PANSY.

Edited By Steve Papworth on 26/03/2015 17:20:14

A few years ago, I started making this single cylinder steam pump. If my memory serves me correctly, it was described by LBSC, but despite looking at the index to ME articles, I can't locate the original 'words and music'.

I'd like to complete the pump, and would be really grateful if some kind soul could point me to the relevant edition of ME.

Thanks...Steve