Member postings for Martin King 2

Hi Cabeng, do you have the issue number please for the saddle lock article?

Regards, Martin

Hi All, Interestlingly the machine dro video does not show the compound slide installed, I suspect it would foul that scale installation.

As I said in my first comment pics of different ways to do this are not easy to find. I like the way that Mike Briggs has done his, would that be the same on an ML7?

Mounting the scale on its side means that the cover no longer fits and wifi have to be improvised without gaining too much height. It does look as if I might have to take a skim off the bottom of the compound slide bracket which I am very much not keen on!

Regards, Martin

Hi Raymond,

I have seen the newall kit on a friends machine and they are superb but beyond my budget I am afraid!

Martin

Hi All,

I am currently fitting a second hand SINO DRO to my ML7 and have done the z axis scale at the rear of the lathe just fine and all works well.

Am having a little difficulty working out exactly how to mount the cross slide scale with out getting in the way of the compound and restricting tailstock access.

I have read most threads that I can find and it seems that here are always quite good photos of the rear installastion but nothing really helpful on the cross slide unit. I have a standard cross slide not the long one.

I am modifying an old thing ring spanner with a slim handle to fit premantently (loc tite) on the saddle clamp underneath the x axis scale.

Any advice, info or photos would be much appreciated.

Regards,

Martin

Sorry David C , my post crossed with yours, thanks for the ereply.

Martin

Hi George , I understand that to be the nomal convention, but this DRO for a lathe only has X & Z Axes and I have been told that X mustbe the cross slide in order for the Radius/Diamter button to work but I cannot confirm this in the manual?

Ian, PM sent, many thanks

Martin

Btw, I do not have a manual and cannot find one for this specific model

Yup! That did the trick, many thanks indeed.

Couple of other queries please,

Can you confirm that the Z axis is the left right of the carriage and the X axis is cross slide travel?

How do I use the radius/diameter control please?

Regards,

Martin

Hi All,

I am in the process of fitting a SINO SDS2l DRO to my ML7 and have so far installed the long scale and read head at the back where the taper attachemnt would go. I have clocked the installation and bracketry and all seems good.

When I connected the scale to the display and fired it up it went through its startup and seemed to work OK....

Until I pressed the X button to zero the scale when all I got was a decimal point.

No matter what I do I cannot get a row of zeros to come up.

I have swithced the axies and taken a couple of pics, first an arbitrary position then after hitting Z/Zo, just the decimal point.

Have tried all sorts of scrolling throught the ABS & INC modes but no go.

Any thoughts please or have I bought a pup?

Does this mean that brazing is the only way to go? Does my idea of a sleeve have any merit at all?

Martin

Hi All,

Sourcing one of these bull wheels is proving very difficult if not impossible.

I do not have the heat source to get this to hot enough for brazing and the 3 local shops I have been to will either not touch it or want around £100 to 'maybe' do it!

I also have virtually no experience at welding or brazing let alone cutting gear teeth.

The answer I seem to have come up with is to try and use one of the spare 65 tooth change wheels, bore it out a bit larger than the 1" needed and then make a brass or bronze bush to fit that is thick enough to allow a grub screw to be drilled and threaded to fix to the spindle. Perhaps secure with Loctite or put the bush in freezer before fitting? Maybe pin it to the gear?

I realise that the change wheel is slightly narrower than the original but hopefully will be OK.

Does anyone have any reason on why not to go this route or any other suggestions or advice please.

This will be quite a test for my level of experience so could turn out OK or end up in the bin!

Cheers, Martin

Errrr.. Tompion.....

Profile added

When ever I have had cast iron welded the weld is incredibly hartd, a file will not touch it .

Martin

Hi All,

Just got an ML4 in overall good order but absolutely filthy! Have stripped it all down and am slowly cleaning and checking all the bits. Main problems so far are the eve pulley which has three quite bad lumps out of it, but have found one on eBay which is on its way.

More of a hassle is the main bull wheel 65 teeth 1" bore with a grub screw to lock to the spindle. This has two teeth missing in one place and another in a different place!

I do have a couple of spare 65 tooth change wheels for my ML7. These are slightly narrower in width and of course different bore, the pitch seems the same by eye.

Any suggestions as to whether I can do something with one of these as finding a replacement is not looking good? Does not seem to be much room for a grub screw if I open out the bore?

Regards, Martin

Rik, Stunning job! Gives me something to aspire to!

Martin

I only knew because I have had several of these in various tool lots and from car boots. Usually they have old pennies soldered in for the front and back covers which dates them precisely.

The WW1 dated examples have done very well for me on EBay although the prices vary enormously, cheapest I sold was £8 and the most expensive was £76!

Nice project, I may have a go if I get some time.... as if!

Martin

Many thanks folks!

Interesting little item

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

Went to a large tool auction last week and bought a lot of kit which I am slowly sorting out.

In one lot was this odd item, any idea what it is? Main wheel is about 65mm diameter. lamps to a table.

seems to turn sweetly but what goes on the spiky bit?

Cheers,

Martin