Member postings for John Baron

Hi Guys,

The biggest problem with Chinese ER collets is that they are not properly cleaned and deburred. I've found that there are often tiny burrs left after they have been slit. In some cases large slivers of metal have been left.

I use a Stanley knife blade to clean mine and remove the swarf that has been left. After cleaning properly all the ones that I have used have been in spec. I posted pictures on another forum of the worse ones I had.

Stoning the burrs off is easy on the larger collects, not so on the small ones.

Sorry Guys, I'm getting confused, I was thinking table feed.

But a wiper motor would still do the job of moving the head up and down.

Anything wrong with pressing a window screen wiper motor into service ? A 3 to 12 volt psu will allow variable speed.

I have a tumbler reverse on mine which gives me a centre off position and allows the handle on the other end to be used.

Don't do that, you will quickly ruin it !

Weldon single hole countersinks have a tapered cone ! You can see it if you use a pointer aligned with the edge of the cone and rotate the countersink. There is about 20 thou of taper on them.

Edited By John Baron on 30/01/2019 11:18:07

Hi Mark,

I would have glued both pieces together and put them in the four jaw on the lathe, drilled to remove the waste and then bored both holes to size.

However its an interesting technique that you have used. I'm watching with interest.

Hi BW,

Very good effort !

First thing I noticed from your first picture, you have far too much tool stick out. Rigidity is the thing here. I also notice that you have the spindle secured with two nuts. Whilst its hard to see on the picture of mine there is no spindle below the bottom of the disc. The spindle on mine was pressed into a bored hole, and I also used superglue to make sure that it did not move. Whilst not absolutely required, I also faced off the underside whilst holding the spindle in the lathe chuck.

I did a lot of playing about with tool bit shapes. The rounded edge seen protruding through the disc is the one that I use for alloys. There is only about five or six degrees of rake and the front face is virtually flat.

The toolbit for cutting steel is quite hooked. I basically copied my lathe tools.

Last thing ! Check your mill tram. Under ideal conditions you don't want the cutter taking more off on one side, this is most noticeable on a long cut when cutting in one direction and the cutter is taking a shave off at the other side.

I agree ! But at the time I had only recently got the mill, so it was very much an exercise to see if I could make one. I've had a Myford S7 for a long time, so making a suitable fly cutter was the easy part.

I agree ! All sorts of things can be cut with a flycutter.

This is a couple of pictures of a dovetail slide that I made that way. The really hard part was making sure that both the male and female parts fitted together properly.

I admit that I did cheat a little. After making the male half, I took a slice off the end and used it as a template when making the female half. They are a nice fit and slide together well.

The brass screw on the left of the top picture is for locking the slide.

The screw on the bottom picture drives the two parts.

Edited By John Baron on 07/12/2018 12:10:44

Hi BW,

All the fly cutters seen in this thread will work ! The only one that I would not use is the boring head.

The primary requirements are rigidity, and balance ! Out of balance forces cause various issues, vibration being the least desirable. A fly cutter has to be able to encompass the work area or you have to make multiple passes. Clearance, you don't want to collide with any protruding obstacle, hence the angled cutter type.

This is one of mine. 3" inches in diameter, 20 mm thick, 20 mm spindle. A heavy rigid body and spindle. Well balanced, and a good flywheel effect. Particularly important if making interrupted cuts. I can take a 1 mm DOC in mild steel at a 150-200 rpm. The tool bit in this one is 5/16" square HSS.

Edited By John Baron on 06/12/2018 19:19:27

Hi Guys,

FWIW every HP inkjet printer has an linear optical positioning system that is easy to get at and provides directional information. The reader head, whilst different in size to say a slot opto, is very similar electrically. Without checking the technical data sheet for the optical reader head I don't know how fine the steps are, certainly the tape is at least 200 lines to the inch.

Why not make one ? The Norman Patent tool post is a good project !

This is mine, sized for the Myford lathe.

Hi BW,

Why don't you try it !

I'll guarantee that you can't pull it out by hand !

That retaining method has been around for a great number of years ! One of its uses is to retain two round shafts that are not in perfect alignment and provide drive from one to the other. You can find examples of this in some of the old radios of the 20's and 30's. I do believe that its used in some rotary tools today.

Hi Tom,

If you have the ability, make a "Norman" patent tool post ! I made one for my Myford S7 and can use from 1/4"  inch up to 1/2" inch square tool size. Most of the work building one is turning and threading. I posted a picture of mine a short while ago. I also have the drawings based on the original patent by Van Norman.

Its one of those things that I wish I had made years ago. In fact Myford actually produced and sold the ML3 and I believe ML4 lathes with one already fitted.

Forgot to add I use HSS tool bits,  the Myford doesn't really have enough speed for making best use of carbide.

Regards:

BaronJ.

Edited By John Baron on 10/11/2018 20:11:43

Edited By John Baron on 10/11/2018 20:12:32

Hello Mike,

Yes I published mine in 2010, so that would have been just before you're article. The similarity prompted my reply to the post. Since I didn't even know that you're web site existed.

I recall that the method of retaining the toolbit caused some interest at the time !

It seems that great minds think alike. I'll have to go and have a wander around and see what else you have done

Regards:

BaronJ.

That tool is based on the one that I published on another forum some years ago

One of the things that makes it unique, is the method I used of retaining the cutter.

I agree ! Why pay them money to make more money from your scrap !

There are a lot of very nice and useful components in a lot of the stuff that we have to pay to get rid of. The local scrapyard will gladly take this stuff of your hands for free, simply to survive.

The last lot of electronics scrap I took to the scrappy, I got £250 for 1/2 a ton. Mainly computer PCB's.

Hi Guys,

It could be one of the Taiwanese clone Myfords, or just the bed and rebuilt.

Hi Michael,

I hadn't noticed the spelling error !

Thanks for pointing it out !

Hi Guys,

I made a mill table drive using a salvaged car window wiper motor. It can easily be powered from an old computer PSU. Using the gearing that I used, at 7 to 8 volts it takes about 2 amps.

The white knob pulls back to allow direction changes with a neutral position in the middle. It is a simple dog in a slot mechanism. The wiper motor is dual speed, not that its needed since I actually use a variable voltage PSU and can crank up the voltage to 30 for fast traverse if I need to.

Might pay you to drop me a copy of the article then !

I have a complete set of drawings based on the original patent. Though I have published my design in a number of places.