Member postings for John Bromley

Lofty, I must pick up a Zeus booklet next time I visit my local tool shop. Lots of useful stuff in those.

Clive it baffles me why you would want to measure in 128ths. Does that mean you also need a rule marked in 128ths to do lay out work or do you have to convert it all into some usable unit. Seems much simpler to measure in metric decimals and use the same units for all machines and instruments.

Probably flogging a very dead horse here but ..........Imperial Argghhh! Hateful system. Well in the fractional sense anyhow.

I jest of course, I love a bit of tradition and the fact that model engineering is a stronghold for the Imperial system, but it ain't easy for newbies like myself.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

John

Yes Michael that makes much more sense. Took me more than a while to see why! Must brush up on my maths,

Are new drawings tending to be in Metric or is this fractions "problem" ongoing.

John

Many thanks Stephen, that looks very useful. I'll have a play with that sometime.

John

Thanks for the replies.

The taking of decimal measurements is not a problem in either case, Imp or Met.

It is the application of measurements when say, laying out or taking a cut. I does seem that some planning in the early stages by going through drawings and converting to Metric might prove the best approach.

Sorry my maths is not great. Why would you use 25.6mm to the 1" as opposed to 25.4mm.

John

Probably been covered before but searching for this is like looking for the proverbial needle.

I have been working from Tubal Cain's books on simple steam engines. The dimensions are given in Inches and fractions of an inch. My initial thoughts are that measurements in imperial decimals would be better.

My Boxford lathe is metric, working with thousandths is not so difficult. But having to convert from fractional Imperial to decimal Metric is not easy, especially as I was taught Metric at school.

I appreciate I'm a beginner and have a lot to learn but it just seems a strange way of working.

So any tips from old hands? Are dimensions in this format the norm for model engineering plans?

Great heads up!

I'll watch that on the Iplayer tomorrow.

John

Why not make your own holders? You could use cheap holders as a start and make them suit your inserts.

Alternatively just use some square stock with the ends milled and drilled for a fixing screw?

John

Thanks Roger, I have plenty of 15mm pipe. I'm still not very wise to the intricacies of boiler design. I'll give it a go with the 15mm pipe.

John

Hi jason, I'm actually at the top of Blue Bell Hill, Bromley is my surname. I'm a Kent boy, born and bred.

I have already tried Maxitrak, they are were out of 1/2" last time I tried them. I get most of my stock and fastenings from them. Very reasonable prices on most stuff and a great selection of cheap off cuts, helping keep this hobby more affordable!

I'll pop down to FES anyway, just to check them out. I have a friend in the "Association of 16mm Narrow Gauge Modelers" Kent area group up the road in Densole, I might give him a buzz. Maybe go drink some tea and run a loco or two.

John

Brilliant stuff guys!

Top suggestion KWIL.

It looks like a bike ride down to Folkestone on Monday then. I'm off Mon and Tue, I'll at least be able to continue the build. Some of the 1/2" x 18swg should do it.

Of course, I'll have to make it worth the trip and get some material for future projects.

Many thanks.

John

The pipe is subject to steam pressure. I will be using a pressure release valve set to 12-15 psi.

This is a small vertical boiler about 6" tall 2" diameter. I think mains water pressure is significantly higher than the design pressure of this boiler. So I foresee no dramas.

The plumbers merchants in my local area don't stock 12mm pipe, but having done a bit of searching it does seem to exist. It is used apparently for outdoor water supplies only.

John

Hi Jason, yes 1/2" would be fine, I'm in north Kent. (As stated in the sub heading) Not sure what wall thickness is for regular 12mm plumbing pipe, but 1-2mm would be ok I guess. I'm still new to boiler construction so any advice would be gratefully received. The boiler is the "Polly" design by Tubal Cain. The plans don't give a thickness for the flue/chimney pipe.

John

Edited By John Bromley on 21/03/2014 18:22:38

I am nearly at the assembly stage with my 1st boiler project, I just need a short length of 12mm copper for the central flue. Anybody know where I can get some? Ideally before Monday.

Seems to be a bit of a rarity in these parts.

John

Yep, that sounds about right. As for large hammer types we won't go there, I can't hit a barn door, even with a baby sledge.

John

Hi Tom,

I too am at the beginning of a very steep learning curve. I have just finished the "Simple Oscillating Engine" thanks to Steve's Workshop.

Now making a start on Tubal Cains "Polly" Vertical steam engine. Thats Tom Walshaw-Tubal Cain, not mr pete 222, who has also been a great help to me.

John

Edited By John Bromley on 18/03/2014 19:45:26

I made an end cap for my small vertical boiler project! (Tubal Cain "Polly" )

My 1st go with my new propane torch was interesting. I am very new to all this model engineering lark. Annealing and forming the copper cap was daunting, but after 5 mins it all made sense. Even swinging my new copper hammer no longer feels awkward.

Is it just me or do new hammers take longer than any other tool to become accustomed to.

Now feeling very smug.

John

Edited By John Bromley on 18/03/2014 19:20:47

Edited By John Bromley on 18/03/2014 19:21:13

I had this problem a few weeks ago with an 8BA tap, I used a piece of terminal block to get me out of trouble. It worked quite well actually. I have a tiny tap wrench now.

John

Edited By John Bromley on 14/03/2014 19:06:04

I too find some people on forums in general take issue with a question being asked time and time again.

If it is such a fundamental question, why are they surprised it is being asked by so many newbies. It defies belief!

And yes, I will be asking obvious and extremely basic questions in the near future.

John

Well... it's done!

No machine tools were harmed in the wiring of my switch box.

The overload has been adjusted to 2 amps and the 0 volt cut out works.

The wiring confused me due to the fact that someone had connected the coil for remote switching. My brother in law worked through it with me last night and today I connected it up. I now have a safer workshop.

Thankyou guys for your input..