Member postings for Redsetter

If I read that correctly, you tried to stop a rotating chuck by hand. Do not, ever, do that.

You are a danger to yourself . Stay away from machinery..

If you don't know what your own requirements are, it is a little difficult for anyone else to advise you. Do you really need a milling machine at all?

800 is 800 turns per mile, the SN is a Smiths part number.

Copyright issues apart, Mr De Silva would be well advised to build one of LBSC's locomotives himself before he starts trying to redesign them. It is not as easy as he seems to think.

Jeremy

What I think you want to get started is a basic set of turning tools with 3/8" square shanks. These usually come in sets of 5. There will be right and left hand knife tools, a right hand round nose tool, a parting tool and a boring tool. If you can get them in HSS that will be best, though carbide tipped would do. None of this will be ideal but it will get you going.

On the late itself you will need a chuck, either 3 or 4 jaw. If you can't run to both, the 4 jaw is more versatile. Plus a tailstock drill chuck, and a tailstock centre. That will be enough to begin with.

Don't try to modify the lathe until you know how to use it.

Jeremy, I see you have posted on here before, but presumably haven't got a straight answer!

There is a lot of useful information on the Lathes UK website including how it works, etc. but seriously, you need to find somebody local to you who can assist you.

Don't take this the wrong way, but model engineering is very much about making things fit when they don't!

Modifying a toolpost isn't such a bad idea for a first project. If you already have some kind of toolholder on your lathe you can do it.

I doubt you will find anything on Amazon specifically designed for the ML10. Some listings do include detailed dimensions, but if not you will just have to order the most likely one, measure it up, and send it back if you don't think it will work.

Edited By Redsetter on 07/02/2020 08:48:01

Centre height of an ML10 is not 3 1/4, but 3 5/16.

May I suggest that to start with, you don't bother with quick change tool posts, carbide inserts etc. It is important to know how the tools work, so get some HSS blanks and learn to grind your own. It is not difficult, and you only need a few different shapes for most work. You will need a small bench grinder, of course.

The ML10 came as standard with a simple clamp for a single tool - I guess that is what you have. A 4 way toolpost such as those fitted to Chinese mini lathes is not expensive and will fit with slight modification. It's a long time since I did mine, but as far as I remember it needed a bit machined off the bottom to get it to a reasonable height. This is easily done on the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck - no need for a mill.

In practice you never have all 4 possible tools mounted, often only one or two, so it isn't an essential thing and again, to start with, you should perhaps see how you get on with the standard single clamp, then decide what you really need.

Don't over-think it! Typically for 2 1/2 inch gauge, a 3/8 whit thread (16tpi), and a 3/16 spindle with a conical end seating in, or on, a 5/32 "hole." Assuming the cone makes a line contact with the seating, and it is a plain parallel hole, the angle won't make very much difference. A shallower taper (i.e. a longer point) would tend to give a smaller opening for a given angle of rotation, but that may not be what you want. I doubt if the difference between 70 and 90 degrees would be significant in practice.

I think you have answered your own question! If you are a beginner I would suggest that you don't buy any steam locomotive unless it has a current boiler certificate, you have seen it in steam, and preferably driven it. It is also best to stick to recognised, published designs rather than somebody's one-off. The only exception might be if it is very cheap (usually they are not) and you intend to treat it purely as a learning curve. Secondhand locomotives are a minefield and even the experts can get caught out. Join a club, if you can find a friendly local one, as your best source of advice.

If it helps anyone - I downloaded Windows 10 earlier this month from the Microsoft website free of charge. At no time was I asked for a product code or license number. Downloading and installation took a couple of hours. There were a few options to select, but not many. Importantly, there was some control over how much information was sent back to Microsoft - obviously as little as possible should be selected. Although I backed up my data to USB sticks first, I did not lose any data from the machine except for saved passwords. It works just as well (or badly) as the Windows 7 it replaced.

Alternatively you can fit a drop-down firedoor hinged from the footplate, and omit the holding-down angle which is not really necessary. A boiler band around the firebox and screwed to the frames is a simpler method, in fact the boiler will probably be retained adequately by the cab and side tanks.

I have just had a look at the video.

With respect, you do not need to re-lubricate oilite bushes using a vacuum because the oil will displace the air anyway. You just have to soak them for a few hours. And it is quite wrong to remove the bearings from the housing before doing so, because they will probably be damaged in the process, and they will never go back exactly as they were. They are a consumable item. If you take them out, you should fit new ones.

This doesn't directly answer your question, but is there anything special about the bearings? They are quite likely to be a stock size (though may not be available from Sony), if so, there is no point in trying to make them. Also if you are concerned about high precision you will have to consider possible wear on the shaft.

Famous last words!

If you instinctively remove the key after tightening, why do you then leave it in when the chuck is empty?

One day you will forget, and start the lathe with the chuck empty and the key in place.

I'm sorry mate, but you will get bitten.

Not all three brush dynamos have a moveable brush

Given the age of the machine it may pre-date the use of a voltage control box.

I could give examples, but I'll shut up now.

Reasonably easy to look inside it,rather than speculating.

Interesting PDF which does look about right, though not too easy to follow!

Before seeing that, I would have said that it is a "3 brush" dynamo. Positive and negative terminals are the output from the armature via the main brushes. The unmarked terminal is the field winding. The field winding is energised from the armature via a third brush, and the unmarked terminal is connected to a cut-out and possibly a switched resistance to control the output. The field circuit is then completed by connecting to either the positive or negative terminals, depending on the polarity/direction of rotation required.

O is a Zero = Off.

M = either Magneto, or Marche = Go = ignition switch.

The other switch is the lighting, so:

L = Lampes = Sidelights

P = Phares = Headlamps

C = Chemin = Highway = main beam or spotlight.

Which leaves the push button as the horn.