Here is a list of all the postings Stuart Bridger has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: VFD speed control fault |
29/05/2020 16:54:03 |
Bit of hack, but you could just tweak the max frequency to take account of the the 90% reference voltage? |
Thread: Terabyte Internet Speed |
26/05/2020 18:11:02 |
I am a couple of years rusty on my optical networking. I spent nearly 20 years on the practical side of this field. Optical networking is typically either single channel or WDM - Wave Division Multiplexing, where you send multiple wavelengths down the same cable concurrently. Each wavelength (channel) carries a stream of data. The single channel systems are typically 850nm or 1310nm (visible light is about 400-700nm with 700 being at the red end) 850nm is used for short haul, a few 10's or 100's of metres depending on the link speed. 1310nm is long haul, potentially up to about 120km with standard transceivers and much further with high powered devices. WDM is either coarse or dense depending on how many channels you can get onto one fibre, 8 channel systems are relatively low cost and the cost rises with how many channels you add. They can also be passive or active depending on whether they just use what is effecively a prism to combine and split the multiple signals at each end or a more complex system. WDM systems typically sit between 1310 and 1550nm. Most of these systems use one optical fibre to transmit and one to receive. I am typing now on a FTTP home broadband connection that that transmits and receives on the same fibre strand concurrently, which takes a bit of getting your head around, This is a form of WDM in that the TX and RX frequencies are different and filters in the transceivers prevent interference As John says above the cable losses and various other optical factors significantly vary by frequency, which does affect how far you can transmit data and how many channels you can squeeze in. |
Thread: Experimental Vibration Analysis of a WM280 Lathe |
25/05/2020 13:02:40 |
This is an interesting insight into the complexity of the subject. **LINK**. Ref Mike's comment above, it seems that there are libraries of bearing signatures available to the pro analysis tools. |
23/05/2020 20:01:40 |
Pulling up a chair and will be following with interest. I agree a vibration sensor would be better than an audio microphone, but you have a good start. |
Thread: A polite note to beginners from ARC |
20/05/2020 18:37:55 |
Great post from Ketan, I agree with his sentiments and would like to add the following comments 1) This forum is free at point of use, but does have a cost that is on the publishers of ME/MEW which is ultimately financed by subscribers and advertisers like ARC. I do subscribe to both (paper only at the moment, but looking to change). Another hobby of mine have resorted o a members only forum, so you need to pay to play. I wouldn't like this to go that way though. 2) The internet/forums/social media has turned many into very lazy habits. The search button is an anathema to many, They would rather post a question than search for an answer. Just look at the number of VFD questions posted for example, 99% of which would find an answer in previous posts. This is certainly not limited to this forum and hobby. I encounter it in my day job on a daily basis. 3) I very much value the band of UK based suppliers supporting our hobby and always buy from them as a preference. You do get what you pay for. If w had to pay industrial prices for machines and tooling we would be much worse off. Our hobby would not exist in its current form without the support of these guys. We also a very lucky to have the suppliers actively supporting the community via this forum. We should very much value their input, They don't have to do it, it is "value add" and the vast majority here do support it. 4) I do still count myself as beginner, on my second model, relearning skills long forgotten from my apprenticeship 40 years ago, which I am very lucky to have had. I value this forum and am happy to give feedback and help to other where I can in a positive manner. Unfortunately there are always a minority of "armchair warriors" who just relish trolling. In summary we need to embrace our new starters, but they need to help themselves, There is no such thing as a free lunch. Do you your research and read up on the basics and please use that search function! |
Thread: Shocking |
15/05/2020 18:47:50 |
Holy crap, that is bad. I must admit on first view from my tablet, I didn't spot the major issue. Then I thought why is the earth conductor looking like that. A closer look showed the problem. Good job the earth continuity was sound at the plug end. |
Thread: Cheap DRO for mini lathe |
15/05/2020 11:09:50 |
Hi Stuart,
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Thread: Shaft Tolerance |
14/05/2020 13:40:53 |
Its nearly 40 years since I did my apprenticeship and studied ISO standard metric limits and fits. Once you get your head around the concepts, it's not that complex. Firstly you need to decide whether you are are working on a hole or shaft basis. That determines what is your fixed dimension and what is adjusted to make the appropriate fit. Most commonly you are looking at hole basis as the hole size is fixed by drill or reamer and you make the shaft to fit the hole. Then you determine the class of fit you are looking for (clearance, transition or interference), the link already shared explains this well. You just then need to go to your reference tables, e.g Zeus Book or use an online calculator, to get the tolerances you need to work to to achieve the desired fit. To help understand the concepts, it is useful to take an example of each fit class, plug them into the calculator and compare the results Edited By Stuart Bridger on 14/05/2020 13:44:10 Edited By Stuart Bridger on 14/05/2020 13:48:54 |
Thread: Ball Nose End Mill / 10V Bearings Question |
14/05/2020 08:45:07 |
When I did mine with a ball nosed end mill (from Tracy Tools), the fit was fine. |
Thread: Thermal fuse reliability |
11/05/2020 19:33:25 |
It's 30 years since I was professionally in the Electronics repair game. Back then thermal fuses were notoriously unreliable and we were regularly changing them in a number of different devices. Whether anything has changed in the meantime I don't know. |
Thread: Bandsaw advice |
09/05/2020 10:20:45 |
Femi all the way, they don't take up much space and are far better quality than other brands, with a bit of a price premium. |
Thread: Where do you put your chuck key? |
09/05/2020 10:17:57 |
Interesting that it took Colchester until the 1960's to work out that a shelf on top othe headstock was a useful feature. The previous "round head" headstocks like my Chipmaster, are not conducive to storing the chuck key on top of the headstock. |
Thread: Boring vs Reaming |
09/05/2020 09:19:36 |
Nice work Peter, tapping is the main objective of my build. The ER11 route looks an interesting option. |
Thread: Where do you put your chuck key? |
09/05/2020 09:07:53 |
I have block of wood screwed under a shelf that is above and behind the tailstock.
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Thread: Boring vs Reaming |
07/05/2020 15:07:51 |
Thanks all, some great advice there |
07/05/2020 12:54:38 |
It is the main arm holes I was referring to. GHT did show boring on the faceplate in the lathe and finshing with a reamer. I will now bore to finished size on the lathe faceplate. . I was considering doing this on the mill with a boring head to get the positional accuracy, but it will be much easier to get the hole fit in the lathe..
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07/05/2020 10:53:16 |
Posted by ega on 07/05/2020 10:42:38:
Do you mean GHT's instructions? If so, I would follow them, if not I recommend you get the book. Boring is certainly the best way to get the fit needed. I have the book and it was his instructions that gave the option. Thanks Boring it is.
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07/05/2020 09:52:16 |
Currently building a Universal Pillar Tool with castings supplied by Hemingway. The instructions are calling for either boring or reaming of the holes in the arm castings. The two holes are 3/4" and 7/8" both 1 1/2" deep. Advantages and disadvantages of each technique? My current plan is to to go down the boring route and practice on some stock before working on the castings. |
Thread: Air supply to test run steam engine. |
06/05/2020 19:19:18 |
Be wary of entry level airbrush compressors. i have a Sparmax Arism Mini, which is fine for its original purpose, it painted my Stuart 10V , but doesn't quite have the oomph to run it. |
Thread: Die-ing. Not literally |
03/05/2020 20:34:22 |
My experience in this area is that the quality of the die is key to success. Try a new die from a reputable source. |
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