Member postings for Henry Wood

Phil

I agree with what as already been pointed out, if the soldering has been done correctly, then all should be O.K. taking them flush, but it is reassuring to see that small fillet, nothing to do with varying stresses. The figure of 3/32" is what I tend to use on the boilers I have made nothing special about it, with perhaps a little less where the boiler goes inside the frames.

Henry

Hi Bill

The idea behind using rivets for the stays, the head stops them from dropping through whilst silver soldering is carried out, if yours have just eased back a little as long as the soldering is good then I should leave them alone. However if they have moved back considerable, then if you can cut them back leave about 3/32" remaining. You mentioned cutting stays back flush on the outside, in my write up I did mention cutting back stays after a successful hydraulic test to 3/32"lg. with the exception of the bottom two rows which will need cutting back a little further to allow the boiler to sit down inside the frames.

H.Wood

In answer to a query by Bill Dawes on Emma-Victoria with regards to Boiler Fixings. My normal practice is to put three brass csk. screws thro' the barrel where it fits over the Smokebox Ring, one at the top and one at either side, these being tapped into the ring. 6 BA is sufficient for this purpose. I apologies to Bill for not picking up this query sooner on the Forum.

H.Wood

Hi John

Thank you for your interest in my Article on how I make my own pressure gauges, I hope this will be of help to you should you decide to have a go in the future.

Henry

To builders of Emma-Victoria, to make easier access when notching up the Valve Gear whilst on the run,I moved the Reversing Stand back 3/4" and re-drilled and tapped the frame 4BA to accept hex. head setscrews. This meant that the Reach Rod was extended by 3/4" making the hole centers 813/16". Another advantage of using tapped holes is that it keeps maximum clearance for the firebox inside the frames. Unfortunately I did not alter my pencil drawings to reflect this at the time, hence this was overlooked when re-drawing on Turbo-Cad.

I hope this small change will not be any problem to builders.

Henry

Hi Bill

You are correct, I did not show any details for the Pressure Gauge and Injector,If you look back to part 1 in M.E.4444 you will see I did make reference to both these items which I do make. With regards to injectors, I followed the articles by D.Lawrence in M.E. in the year 1975 and did achieve success. I do make my own Pressure Gauges, I looked on this as a challenge many years ago and have successfully made a number for my own locos and Traction engine. Both these items are not what you could say easy to make, for this reason most Builders purchase them from our suppliers. For the Pressure Gauge, I suggest a 1"dia. with a range of (0-150psi ) and for the Injector, a No.3 (14oz/min.) is O.K.

Hope this is helpful.

Cheers

Hery

Hi Bill

You are correct, I did not show any details for both the Pressure Gauge and Injector. If you look back to Part 1 in M.E. 4444, you will see I did make reference to both these items which I do make. With regards to injectors I followed the articles by D.Lawrence in M.E. in year 1975. and achieved success. I do make my own Pressure Gauges, I looked on this as a challenge many years ago and have successfully made a number over the years for my own locos and Traction Engine. Both these items are not what you could say easy to make, for this reason most builders purchase them from our suppliers.

For the Pressure gauge, I suggest you go for 1"dia. with a range of 0-150psi. and for the Injector, a No.3 (14oz/min.) is O.K. Hope this is helpful

Cheers

Henry

To builders of Emma-Victoria, in M.E. No.4459 on page 49, the detail of the Eccentric Rod shows a set over of 1" from bearing C/L, this should read 1 1/2" to clear Return Crank swing.

Henry

To builders of Emma Victoria, in Part 9 of M.E. No.4457 page 787, I have shown the detail of the Expansion Link Fulcrum Bracket with a 7/16" wide fork end. This dimension can be reduced to 25/64" to give some extra material for the press fit of the pivot pins. I hope this will not cause a problem to those building.

Henry

Hello John

You are correct, in my write up I just mentioned if the builder prefers to use cast iron for the cylinders, then I suggested the use of cast iron rings. I used cast iron on my simplex which has been and still is running since 1976 on my home made cast iron rings with no loss of performance. I put two rings on the piston and made them 1/16"thk. x 3/32" wide and staggered the gaps as pointed out by Jason B to help prevent blow past. Whether having two rings is better than one apart from the blow past as mentioned and having one extra in case one should break, then I would not like to say. Again, I point out the need for an oiling point on the steam chest for giving a dose of oil after running is finished to prevent rusting. I hope this is of help to you.

Cheers Henry

To builders of Emma Victoria, in M.E. 4451 page 388, I have shown a cover for use on fabricated cylinders when the cylinder bore to frame is 1 3/8" without a spacer. I have changed the design and made it simpler which will suit either option of fabricate cylinder i.e. with or without a spacer plate. Attached is a copy of the assembly & detail for the new cover.

Henry

To those building Emma Victoria, in M.E. 4472 Page 53, under the heading Exhaust Pipes, half way down the second paragraph, with regards making the Union for the Stub Pipes, after the wording "to accept the pipe", please finish the sentence by adding "and thread 1/2" x 26 tpi. Also another small typing error on my part, in the latest M.E. 4491 on page 442 the second line of the first paragraph reads,"this is positioned at 3/16" from the top" it should read 7/32" as shown on the drawing.

I hope this will not be of any inconvenience to those building

Henry

Hello John

I am sorry at this point in time I do not have a Video of Emma-Victoria running on the track. I did issue M.E. with a number of still pictures taken at the track with the loco carrying passengers, perhaps these may be included with my article to let you see that the loco does run very well. I am not one for doing a lot of camera work, but if the opportunity arises to make a Video in the future I will do so.

Cheers Henry

Hello Mike

I have checked thro' my drawings for the regulator and they all add up O.K. I do not understand where you are getting 11 5/8" from. As to the comment with regards the missing 'O' ring , I have never used an 'O' ring to seal the superheater wet header to the regulator, always used a gasket as shown on my drawing with no problems on sealing. With regards to the Fire Door mountings, these are 6BA ( bronze or stainless ) tapped into the 1/8"thk. backhead, again I have used this method on all my boilers. Once in, they are not likely to need removing on a regular basis unlike other boiler fittings. If you are not happy with this, then you could used blind bushes silver-soldered in place. As to the Superheater , again I have fitted this type to two locos and find it easy to construct and does the job satisfactorily. I hope this will help in clearing up your concerns

Cheers Henry

Hi Bill

Where you are going wrong is that the centre line of the valve face is not the same as the cylinder centre line. On both fabricated and cast versions, the centre line for the valve face is 15/16" from the outer edge. I hope this clears it up for you.

Cheers

Henry

To all those who are building Emma-Victoria, with regards to the fixing of the fork end to the cylinder valve spindle. On the cylinder drawings I have shown the spindle with a 5/32" x 40 thread, however on the fork end detail I have shown a 5/32" reamed hole and pinning. My original intention was to quote both methods but I didn't make this note on the drawings and in the write up. I have used both methods in the past and both are O.K. I hope this will not have caused any problems for those who are building.

Regards

Henry

Edited By JasonB on 28/05/2014 07:38:29

Julian

With the greatest respect, the pump does work and is a differential double acting i.e. the amount of displacement on the forward stoke is equal to the volume of the rod, on the back stoke the displacement is equal to the annulus volume, i.e. the total displacement is the same as if the pump was a single acting.With the displacement being split, this helps to cut out jerky running with the by-pass valve fully closed. With regards to pump removal, when I was building my simplex, I had spotted early on that the pump / stay position was going to cause a problem with the weigh shaft and decided to move it 3/8" i.e. a pitch of the fixing screws.

Henry

Hi David

The original design of ( Differential Double Acting Pump ) does work. I fitted this to my Simplex as per drawing and it has performed very adequately for the past 38 years. It is important to have a good gland seal on the rod. Based on this, I used the same type of pump but smaller on my Emma Victoria currently be serialized in M.E. This loco has been running for the past 8 years with he pump doing its duty very well.

Henry

Hello Bill

There is no reason why you cannot make the pump inlet and outlet fittings with 5/16" x 32 threads and reduce the bore of the fittings to 5/32" dia. if you prefer and use commercially available nipples. I make all my own fittings including nipples ( you will see these covered later in the series ) so I do not have a problem using 3/8" x 32 threads. I would not consider going to 1/4"dia. pipe, 3/16" being adequate for this size of loco.

Regards

Henry

Hi Bill

Can I just clear up the dimensions for the eccentric i.e. the groove is 1 5/16"dia. x 1/4" wide (not 1/8" wide as you have indicated ) . On my own Emma-Victoria I used cast iron which I would think helps with your problem and cut the groove using my standard 1/16" wide H.S. parting tool by doing as suggested by Jason B , i.e. making plunge cuts and then traversing back and forth to get the finished size. This works O.K. and is my normal way of producing narrow grooves without any chatter and you are correct in saying that the strap runs on this surface so try and achieve a good surface finish.

Regards

Henry Wood