Member postings for Mike Teaman

I've been given a Unimat 1 ( I know, I know ) as I am "into lathes and stuff" and would like to have suggestions for the best materials to use. I am aware that they are not suitable for steels etc, so what would folks suggest? I already have a Myford 3 1/2" so use that for most of my "heavier" work.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

My good lady would say that if you had less "stuff" it would be easier to find. A friend reported his car stolen before it was found on another floor of the multi-storey car park!

Mike

I am going to attempt to make a bezel for a ladies watch in stainless. It's basically a ring of steel around 18mm with a recess in the front for the crystal (push fit) and a recess in the back to "snap" onto the case. I am using stainless tubing. My question is, should I machine both internal recesses first and then part off to the inner recess or should I cut into the tube with the parting tool first and then cut the internal recess outwards to meet the outer cut to part it off?

Mike

I watched this thinking about how much more can you do to stop it. The owner seemed to have covered all the security options but .....

Caravan theft!

Mike

I believe that he said "unique to Triumph"?

Mike

There has been a lot of discussion with regard to the use of stainless on classic bike forums. I would suggest a visit to your bike specific forum. It has been known for "replaced with stainless" bolts to fail in "hard work" situations. Cosmetic issues over practicality?

Mike

New K&N filter fitted and with a one notch lift on the needle, everything is working wonderfully now. Many thanks to all contributors. 4 into 2 will go! (with a bit of tweaking!)

Mike

Hammerite thinners was great. You could get just about anything clean with it! You are correct. It is definitely different. Industrial thinners used to be pretty good too but I haven't seen that around for years now. Come to think of it, I haven't seen any of the guys who used to use it on a daily basis either!

Mike

You are spot on correct John. I have compared the emulsion tube! It seems that 4 stroke to two stroke conversion is OK so long as the drip feed oilway is used to the intake manifold (ie after air/fuel is mixed). The different design for the two stroke mixes some air with the fuel before it is released into the main carb airflow.

I have had a gentle rideout to test the setup but my air filter was a different size and in a slightly different position, so couldn't be fitted to the intake on the new carb. The mixture was therefore a little lean, which became more evident higher up the revs. New filter ordered, so awaiting the postie!

Mike

I compared the two throttle valves and they were identical. I fitted the inlet tube as suggested with slight chamfer/interference fit with loctite and a blob of araldite around the whole thing (externally obviously) for good measure and the whole thing is performing well. Many thanks for the input.

Much appreciated,

Mike

As I'm replacing a VM22 (2S) with a VM22(4S), I shall compare them. Thanks for the info.

Mike

Thanks again for that. I may change plans again (Oh Dear!) as I need to modify thebolted flange fitting on the inlet, to a tube fitting. I have enough space to fit the feed pipe to this steel tube instead of the carb (some two strokes feed directly into the reed valve cavity via a tube to the mounting plate). A friction fit with some circumference centre punching and Loctite should hopefully do the business.

Mike

Excellent advice. I was thinking along the same lines myself. I need tocheck if there is already a drilling. Often they were in the castings (for 2 stroke use) and capped off for the 4 strokes.

Until my new carb arrives, I can't check it.

More later,

Mike

Can't believe it! Looking for a pic, I found just the thing on the bay!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121163423224?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I supose that I could have made one but by the time ............. etc!

Mike

Edited By Mike Teaman on 07/07/2014 20:41:42

It's a 1986 Yamaha engine and it has an oil pump which feeds directly to the carb intake. The pumped supply (from the oil tank) is metered by the throttle opening as it is linked to the accelerator cable. I was thinking of just pre-mixing the oil/petrol but I have been told that the pump needs to be completely removed to do this. The two stroke carbs (with the inlet pipe on the induction side) are like rocking horse manure to find these days so I was going to go with the readily available (new and ridiculously cheap) 4 stroke version and drill and fit a pipe to the inlet.

Mike

Hi Folks,

I am rebuilding an old 2 stroke scooter and am in the process of converting a four stroke carburettor to a two stroke one. Basically I need to drill a hole into the (alloy) carb intake and fit a metal (brass) nippled tube as a feed for the two stroke oil. The old carb has a short pipe of approximately 3mm diameter with a nippled end and appears to be a friction (sealed) fit rather than being tapped. Any suggestions as to the best way to go about things (are there tubes available similar to this in modelmaking circles?).

Mike

When I closed my business some years ago, I let a lot of tools and plant items go. The one that I miss the most is my power hack saw. I really miss that "clump, clump" as it works its way through the metal. Very satisfying to listen to!

Mike

I have seen a number of new vices for sale at what appears to be less than used vices are advertised at. The quality also "looks" good (in a photo). Thoughts please. I have tended to buy older tools as they have always given me good service. I'm a hobby user only,

Mike