Member postings for Martin Botting 2

Hello all.

Question that I am sure will have been discussed in these hallowed halls a couple of times, yet I can't find any postings about machining a back plate on my new WM250v. I have fitted the raw CI backplate and I have to machine a register on it so I can mount my collet chuck and I find I can't get close enough with the saddle or the compound fully wound out to get near the depth. To my eye the "spring" cover for the lead screw stops the carriage getting close enough to the headstock. Any suggestions on this? Apart from having a lot of hang out of the tool from the tool post.

Martin

Hi again.

I have ordered the beast from Mr Warco and I was hoping that if any kindly owner of a WM250 vf could oblige me with a measurement from their machine.

I am building a new bench and want to get the height near enough so I would like the height from the top of the bench to the hand wheel for the carriage please. I am sure I asked before in the forum but I can't find the posting.

Many thanks in advance

Martin

Some common sense advice… I have to ask the folk that say its all useless this, if you saw a co-worker doing something a bit iffy would you say something or let them find out the hard way?

Readers all.

I may have mentioned before I am a union H&S rep not in the engineering trades but I subscribe to the HSE website, WHY I hear you cry but I like to keep up to speed and if you like make sure my colleagues and employer does also.

In this weeks digest from the great thinking ones I offer this pertinent to our hobby and lets be honest most of us me included live by the tenet do as I say and don't look at what I am doing.. In fact go put the kettle on.

I am sure the screams will rise and blood presures pressures with the mention of ELF and safety, but fellow model engineers and swarf makers like myself consider this. Most of the time we are lone working, and at best there maybe someone close by that should an accident happen will be able to help but a lot of the time we are down the workshop alone. so may I ask you all take as long to think about WHAT IF as you do about the job in hand.

Many thanks for reading my cod's wallop happy machining.

Martin

http://www.hse.gov.uk/engineering/lathes.htm?ebul=hsegen&cr=1/12-oct-15

Sorry if this is teaching granny to suck eggs here. I sometimes forget the things my old dad told me and files need to be hung and not slung in a draw… keep em clean, Card/ chalk em. Try and keep two one for Non- and another for ferocious so it really bites… I am sure you will get better answers. Files to some degree are expendables like these new great indexable tips for lathe tools. I have files that were my dad's and some i have picked up at shows and they are good as each other.

M

Hello fellow cyberspace model engineers, could any owners of the Warco WM250v type lathe tell me would one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soba-Piston-Type-Lathe-Quick-Change-Toolpost-Set-/301568849324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4636e775ac

Fit a WM250 and not be to big/small…. I had a dickson type on my old myford and the rigidity was a little bit suspect but the ability to change tooling with out too much gaffing was a boon.

many thanks

Martin

Thanks for all the hints and tips.

I have some of that wonder solder. I got it after I was wooed by the sales person on one of the trade stands. to my surprise it works well and even I managed to get a good result.

I will give the bending rolls a bash next week at the club and see what happens with some ali sheet..

I have found a company online called metal bits that do 4"X 10swg I will contact them and asking if they will do less than the meter. I will alter the other dimensions of the flanges to fit. Thanks for the tip.

Has anyone dealt with metal bits?

Evening all.

could some wise person help me? can 3mm ali sheet be rolled easily without it cracking or distorting the outside diameter needs to be about 100mm and the hight of the cylinder when finished about an 25mm.

I have never done any rolling so not sure what it would turn out like and how easy it would be

many thanks in advance

Martin

Hello all.

I wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of drawings done to gauge 1 ⅜ inch to the foot I think is the imperial order.

I have heard say the gauge one is not pure model engineering more a craft but lets not go into that. (I do love a contentious statement)

I have had a fancy to break away from model boats and the Robroy project has stalled due to back and hip problems and something in G1 just seems a nice diversion.

I was thinking on the lines of a southern railway EMU or the like, ok maybe a bit adventurous so a bogie brake. I have some books with 00 scale drawings and was thinking going to the local print shop and having some blown up. does the panel think this would be a way forward, or could the draftsmen/women readers think this is fraught with problems as the drawings have a minimum of dimensions

Martin

Thanks Neil. I will try that out when I get round to the axles and for other bits. All this info is being stored away in the grey filing cabinet.

I will say it again this forum is like having a club night 24/7 365! many thanks to everyone.

Martin

Jason.

You are right about looking at the bits it connects too. Thats cleared that one up. The axle boxes would need a bit of slop in the horns I am guessing.

The real fun is going to start when it comes to machining the axle's to fit the wheels the drawings call for a 7/16 reamed hole and press fit on the axel as this will be a first time I am thinking down the bottled fitting solution lines, Locktite.

Hope I can get back down the workshop soon as I have a half finished Voith propellor to finish and this sitting around sick is getting on my nerves now, so back to the drawings.

Thanks to everyone for the pointers

I bought a set of castings for a robroy from the well known auctions site and among the bits were no horn guides of the gunmetal type but honking great cast iron ones so I have ordered some from Messrs Blackgates to pick up at the show next weekend. In the box of tricks I found what I think are the crossheads but they are gunmetal not MS as per the drawing. WHEN I get round to butchering this part would you advise making MS ones as they have to run on case hardened steel slide bars.

Many thanks as always.

Martin

The legend 3/16 Bare is attached to a gudgeon pin for a cross head so would I be guessing right that you make the shoulder the exact size as the con rod small end's width so allowing the nut to tighten but leave little slop, maybe see if I can grab a shot of what I am talking about and post it here. also on the horns and axel boxes.

A friend of mine was in service all his working life and asked me to make a cork retriever and drew a sketch so i did some research and found this:

http://www.bullworks.net/daily/2007retr.htm

who would have thought so many different patents taken on a gadget to deal with such a problem.

Would someone give me a clue as to the meanings of legends on some drawings I am reading:

⅜ bare.

3/16th FULL.

.240 = N.S.

I am sure i will come upon many more terms that will need explaining.

Many thanks

Martin

Ooop's what have I started here? I think its good to let vent and I hope this thread has given people the room to put into words what drives them mad around this whole subject.

I really have some strong views myself on the whole subject and I know this might sound strange but I subscribe to the HSE bulletins and when I was a H&S rep would like to keep myself of any potential banana skins that I would have to bring to the attention of my fellow union members at work. If you take a look at the HSE website its quite well constructed.

The HSE is grossly underfunded as are the investigation dept's for most industries the MAIB for my own particular industry. The rates of pay to be a HSE inspector are so low for what you need to know that any practical person would turn their nose up at it. There are dept's of most firms called compliance, now my take on this they are there to make sure the company remains compliant with rules and regs, truth be told they don't really do that because anything to save money is their raisin d etre is to keep the insurance premiums low, There my dear friends is the real reason MONEY! The real driver for these petty "jobs worth's" if they can prove they have tried to minimise the outlay of an insurer if the worst that can happen QED the premiums don't go up..

I could write my take on the rules for H&S but it would be a very large and boring tome with many words that would be un-printable… anyway take a look at this and have a giggle next time you are faced with a pettifogging jobs worth and as many have said in they thread ask them which reg (chapter and verse) are they basing their opinion on… and remember opinions are like A£$£ holes we ALL have them.

enjoy: http://www.hse.gov.uk/Myth/myth-busting/index.htm

Martin

John.

Many thanks for doing that for me and also to Thor for PM'ing me with a very handy grizzly downloadable handbook.

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0602_m.pdf

All things being well I should be able to put it in the same space as the ML7 so I can utilise the foundation bolt studs to hold the bench down.

when I installed my asiatic mill-drill from Mr Warcos emporium I had a problem of getting to the belts when the head was all the way up the column and getting the drawbar out, the tin lid was not able to open fully so I cut a hole in the ceiling and built a skylight! drastic i know but the plus side I can get real daylight over the machine. anyone know where that big orange thing in the sky has gone?

then comes the problem of opening the tin lid when the head is lowered as the hole the column goes through stops the lid opening…. drastic step Mk2… cut the tin lid in half throughout the centre line of the 'ole… and there is me withering on about Elf and safety!