Member postings for Cabinet Enforcer

Compare your cutter to Jasons on the previous page, yours has a lot more relief, and will cut quite aggressively, I would tone it down a touch.

Tempering can most easily be done in a domestic electric oven, just clean and thoroughly degrease the part first, this is much easier than judging temper by colour, especially on such a small piece. You do not need to dunk after tempering, it's just convenient.

You only really need the tips of the cutter to actually be hard, so I wouldnt worry excessively about soak times, remember that this process can be attempted on the same part as often as needed, if it all goes wrong just heat it up, cool slowly in air and you have a soft part you can reshape if needed, before having another try.

My experience has been that PLA is fairly tolerant stuff, and that temperature variation is something to finesse the last few percent of print quality, most of the time.

There are way too many other factors which affect issues such as stringing for temperature to solve alone; retraction settings in particular, since many printer maufacturers turn these down, or some of them off to speed prints up. Cura in particular seems to default to turning off the lift Z for travel and associated retractions, and alters the timing and routing of these moves all in favour of speed.

At least half the different reels of PLA I have bought have had temperature recommendations on them, which have been satisfactory, though to be honest I find 190degC is good enough most of the time that I only vary it if I have a specific problem.

Basically, the temperature question is like a "speeds and feeds?" question where you are still able to vary the diameter of the part, and what type of cutting tool you're using. The ballpark figure should be good enough 99% of the time, and when it isn't there will be part and other specific issues to consider.

An example, like you I had a roll of dark filament that liked lower temps, I think the reel said 170C recommended, I was printing a part with some thin section overhang, and layer adhesion wasn't working well, increasing overall print head temp by 20C made layer adhesion work better in that area, making it acceptable, and the stringing that caused elsewhere was non critical and could be easily fettled.

Sign up to their email spam letter, and they will send you one periodically.

I really wouldn't recommend it though, I wasn't joking.

Most stores have one in (or the CL500, same lathe with added milling monstrosity) so at least you can see one in person and judge the (lack of) quality for yourself.

Well in that case, the Clarke CL430 is right up your street, it can be had in budget if picked up on one of machinemarts many "vat free" promotions and comes the closest to your requirements, bore is 26mm and swing 305mm.

I would only recommend one to a person I was intending to put off lathework for life though.

While the hidden complexity and the machining of that one is admirable, I do like like the elegant simplicity of this puzzle, and it's simple enough to knock up in an afternoon, making a nice gift.

**LINK**

Snopes says you may be a credulous idiot.

https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/taiwan-experts-self-check/

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 15/03/2020 19:31:31

Is there some reason Warco cannot provide spare parts?

Given they are plain gears running in oil they should last practically forever, there will be a reason for the failure and you need to work out what it is before fitting new gears.

Just posting to point out that the one in Lidl this Thursday is a 30A model not the 40A model that Lidl have offered previously in other parts of Europe, and which is reviewed in the link above.

Just as a follow up, Lidl now list the plasma cutter as for sale on the 13th Feb for 80squids.

I think this is the first time that one of these cheap Chinese plasmas has been retailed in the UK.

There are quite a few .999 silver 1 ounce coin designs issued by the royal mint which could make nice rings. Also the silver £20 coin issued for the queen's 90th birthday with a crown and 9 roses in a circle really suits being made into a ring.

If you want matched reeding on the edges then you'll probably have to make your own knurl to match, or remove the reeded edge and re-do it with a bought knurl. A shop made knurl wouldn't need to be all that hard if only used for forming silver.

Danny, I don't really understand why you are complaining to the TAFE, they will obviously ignore you, why not make a complaint to your local H+S regulator, who might even have the actual power to do something???

**LINK**

Or alternatively, Australian ad standards might also have some teeth they could use.

https://adstandards.com.au/lodge-complaint

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 10/01/2020 10:56:31

There isn't much meat on the topslide to be cutting off, to reduce stack height it is much better to reduce the height of the boss which the topslide bolts to. That's what I did to be able to use the 16 and 20mm toolholders on my boxford size Dickson toolpost.

That may well be true, but you already have a Dickson type toolpost which is also a well regarded design, it would seem easier to sort out the problem than splash the cash on a new one.

How well do the holders fit the post, and do they clamp when just slightly "over center"?

I also have a Dickson toolpost on a wm280, and there was a lack of sufficient clamping force onto the topslide, I fitted a needle roller thrust bearing and suitable washers which helped.

Should I find a round tuit, then I will be fitting a larger diameter post to the topslide, as it is too spindly IMO, I think this will cure the problem.

I don't think changing the toolpost type will help much, it would only assist if it reduces overhang, and sometimes, eg boring, the overhang will be much the same anyway and the problem will resurface.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 05/01/2020 18:28:23

I have an AMAT45V, I'm fairly sure they aren't 1500quid though, only the geared head ones with the six speed box were ever near that cheap?

I put mine on a (temporaryish) stand made from 100mm fencing posts, it's easily strong enough, but you description of your bench sounds like it would provide differing support across the bottom, I could imagine issues with vibration when cutting, 300kg is a lot and having it all bearing straight down over seems sensible, you do not want anything that big starting to jump about.

Forgetting the stand for a moment, you said it's to go in a shed, is it on a concrete slab? Also, even breaking it down into parts leaves you with bits that still really need lifting equipment, and a normal sized doorway will present challenges.

The amount of space needed shouldn't be underestimated, table length plus movement plus handles plus a bit of room adds up to quite a lot.

I have a DRO as supplied, and couldn't imagine trying to do any sensible work without it, big tables mean an awful lot of cranking handles, this is much more manageable when you don't have to worry about counting turns, the ability to easily do PCDs is also worth the price alone.

I do like the machine, it has a lot of capability for the money, but my machining experience is pretty limited so I'm not too qualified to give an opinion.

I have a boxford sized Dickson qctp on my 280, I agree that it is probably the "right" size, but the standard centre height range of that model is too high for the lathe, I had to machine a replacement part for the topslide adjustment stack and shorten the t-bolts.

When I get a round tuit, I am going to change to a "4 bolt clamp" and change parts to lower it further so that the extended 20mm holders can be fully utilized.

It's not Bar/litre if it's the product, also said disapplication specifically says it cannot be used if steam is the relevant fluid.

I'm afraid I have no constructive input, but when I saw the title I was expecting a thread on selling a shaper

Robin, I notice no-one has directly answered your questions and most have just started moaning, seems standard on here at the moment, must be the heat.

If you get 20Mb/s on ADSL, then assuming openreach can connect you to FTTC you should get more, either near 40 or near 80 depending on how much you pay.

You can find out directly what you will get from this bt page:**LINK**

If you are talktalk you may need to use the address check version linked to on that page.

It's not a guarantee, as sometimes you can be connected to a different box, but it gives a good idea.

ETA, I had to go to FTTC just to get up to 20, you lucky blighter.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 31/07/2019 17:08:12

I think you probably should have started a new thread Doug...

Try looking for the term "brayer" as that's the proper name for an ink roller, as the "ink" is quite thick and the surfaces hard, you will need a pretty firm roller to ensure an even spread.