Member postings for Cabinet Enforcer

AFAIK all 280s have a 26mm through hole on the spindle, only the 290s have the bigger bearings and larger 31mm spindle. The Chinese one-upmanship that has resulted in the big bore 250s doesn't seem to have hit the 280 class yet.

I have one, what do you want to know?

It's just another RF-45 type mill, they are all much the same really. The two speed box with a VFD seems to be a good compromise, it gives a more useful top speed than the six speed variants. R8 is definitely the better spindle option. A DRO is also a wise choice.

Banggood aren't collecting the VAT yet, though AliExpress started doing so in January, interestingly I could see no way of identifying on the AliExpress package that VAT had been paid, makes me wonder if they are just keeping the cash.

No, they are intended for digital use, Ian really has linked to a three and a half grand USB cable.

Take a look at some of the utterly mind bending drivel in the second of his links, my favourite bit was this " This innovative layout allows the two signal wires to run parallel, compared to the standard twisted-pair configuration, shortening the signal path and drastically increasing transfer speeds"

The thing I really don't understand about audiophiles is why none of them have twigged onto the most obvious way of improving the sound experience, that being reception fidelity interoception. The simple and straightforward application of a pair of underpants to the head supplemented with correct tuned length wood and graphite frequency modifiers in the nasal cavity can take the listening experience from the sublime to the ridiculous in one fell swoop.

The measure of all things by Ken Alder, is one I enjoyed. It is a book about the story of the development of the metre, nominally it's a history book but there are all sorts of nuggets in there.

I never got on with Davey, nor his mate Bob, they both always had a massive chip on their shoulder.

eBay search for lazy Susan bearing.

Not that dear and available in 14" size or even bigger.

No need to do anything daft with the darts, It's easy to make a nerf gun (that fires standard foam darts) which is an "air rifle" or even a section 5 firearm.

I own a nerf gun which would need a license if I lived in Scotland.

Clickspring posted a short video on his "clips" channel a few days ago, apparently he is busy writing a research paper on the antikythera, which has put his main channel on the back burner, I think there may also be patreon content available too.

A recent discovery for me is 'An Engineer's Findings' which was linked to in one of Stefan Gotteswinters videos.

**LINK**

Not many videos, but very thorough and interesting. His self built press brake is pretty impressive.

cousinsuk sell mineral glass rounds intended for watch faces, less than two quid each. I would not muck about making one.

link to the 1.5mm thick ones, other thickness' available.

**LINK**

Same toolpost here, I used to have a needle roller thrust bearing on top which helped. Installed it properly with the proper toolpost stud and it got worse, knurling and parting became impossible, blueing showed the contact area was OK, shimmed it with a sheet of paper and there was a large improvement.

Someone on a US forum had a go at re-writing the chinglish manual for the SINO a few years ago, on the pages I looked at there wasn't any difference...

Once you have the hang of the major functions you will be fine, there are plenty of youtube videos covering the subject, ToT and blondihacks have both done one:

**LINK**

**LINK**

Suppliers of industrial machine tools sell you a support network, with the machine thrown in for free. Hobby machine suppliers sell you a hunk of cast iron and hope you don't come back. If you want fancy manuals and other such handholding it would cost an amount that the market would never bear, same goes for the build quality.

Given how easy it would be to produce even slightly better manuals, I honestly think that UK suppliers prefer things that way as it deters the terminally stupid.

You would need a DRO or the x-axis on the leadscrew will drive you potty. The table size is a masive compromise, and you can't realistically keep a vice mounted either.

I think the only reasons to buy one are either a very specific usage case which fits in the machines envelope, or having no space at all for a mill, as I think it is probably slightly better than using a vertical slide.

I seriously considerered getting a milling head for my 280 but I knew I would just get frustrated with the compromise and stuck out for a mill, it was the right decision.

It's one version of the truth, another is that the machines are pretty much identical to the ones sold by many others and that you would be better served looking mainly at the reputation of the supplier rather than their machines. As above the UK agent is excel who are more into the small scale industrial stuff rather than hobby, so you won't find much experience here, also the optimum mills are priced quite high considering the similarity to other machines.

It used to be the case that (some) optimum mills were machined such that CNC conversion was easier, which would be one reason to look at them particularly, but it has been quite a while since I saw that claim and it would need to be verified it was still the case.

Test your theory by strapping some extra weight to the head?

I take the view that tools wear out, best do something interesting with them before they do. In fact, I hope I wear my lathe out, it'll show I got my moneys worth and I can then justify buying a better one

I only later realised that the question in the OP text was the opposite to the thread title, obviously I was answering the detailed question in the text, but I can see the confusingness...

Should still be around close to the heat death of the universe, though our own sun going off pop might mix it up a bit. Long enough not to worry about.

Not directly from the phase changes in the steel no, this can be repeated indefinitely. The action of heating and quenching on a more macro scale will cause problems eventually with sufficient cycles, and any physical damage accrued while being used as a cutter could also come into play in a sort of stress-corrosion cracking.

But basically, no, crack on.

It's a cheap simple lock, usually easy to pick. You need a tension wrench to provide light torque while giving the pins a jiggle about, the stainless steel strip found in car windscreen wipers makes good tension wrenches though a screwdriver or similar can be pressed into service, lockpicks are typically made from steel shimstock, 25thou to 15thou being a workable range, a single triangle toothed shape to "rake" back and forth would most likely get you into this one.

Loads of videos on youtube, try a search for the lockpickinglawyer for some quality inspiration.

I have picked similar desk drawer locks using paperclips, though I wouldn't recommed that as it is fairly tricky due to the lack of tool strength.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 02/09/2020 12:56:03