Member postings for Phil Catchesides

My workshop is about 10' x 12' of single leaf block construction with a tiled roof, there is no insulation whatsoever. This winter it has been too cold for me to do work out there, I can heat it electrically but all the metal objects stay cold and I get cold handling them. Any thoughts on what to do?

Thanks, Phil

Cheers John but access to nuts to retighten when hot will be very awkward so have got some Loctite on order from fleabay

Phil

Thanks Mick, do you use it with a gasket or just on bare metal?

Phil

I always seem to have trouble getting a reliable (that is it seals first go) and effective seal on things like the valve chest, cylinder covers or dome flange. What do you use ?

Thanks, Phil

Done it ! Used a 1/16 slot drill to cut er, a slot. 3000rpm and 10 thou cuts got me there without breakage and I went right through on one runner for the central 1/2" so the dust can fall out. Thanks for ideas, I'm sure I will be back

But it's weeney, 5/32 square, hard enough to see never mind hold but I will have a go soon, have ordered slot drills from Tracy Tools. Where can I get smaller fingers and better eyes from?

Out of interest why a slot drill and not an end mill? Good ideas thanks. I have a small slitting saw but the arbor fouls the vice or the milling machine fouls the vice depending on how I organise it. I think I will get a couple of slot drills and go slowly, presumably the machine speed is pretty much as fast as it goes? 2500 rpm ish for me

The drawing specifies that they are 5/32 square (OK), 3" long (OK) with a 1/16 wide by 3/32 deep slot for the door to slide in. A 1/16 end mill will break if I look at it funny but I can't think of another solution. You chaps are clever, ideas appreciated

Phil

Done it. Made a broach from silver steel and tapped it through, just needed a clean up with a file afterwards but assembled now and happy with result

Cheers, Phil

I am looking at 1 hole in steel. I like the 5 hole approach for bigger square holes but I think for me the corner holes, at under 1mm, are too small for success. At the moment I am thinking of a tool made from silver steel which I push through a central 5/32 hole with my vice. Appearance doesn't have to be perfect as this bit is on the regulator buried inside the (huge) dome, the regulator rod, with a square end, from the cab engages in it

Some good stuff here thanks. The square hole is 5/32 square by 3/16 deep and goes through - not blind. Which technique would be favourite ?

Parts of my Pansy require square holes, the usual suppliers don't have square drills so apart from using a square file and hoping for a good outcome is there a better way of doing it ?

Thanks for help guys - extremely useful. For the want of anything better I am doing my feeble best to do model 5786 as she left the shop in 1929. Why 5786? - it is on the South Devon railway. Obviously I can't be exact but life is full of choices and compromises, especially in 5" gauge

Phil

The postman bought me Robin Jones' book 'Great Western Railway Pannier Tanks' from Amazon and it is very interesting with loads of photos so I should be asking fewer daft questions. I think the cab roof and the inside of the bunker are painted black, can you confirm?

cheers,Phil

Thanks Bob, very useful and it certainly answers the question as to why all the drivers appeared to be 6' 6" tall. I like to get the detail as good as I can as I am not really interested in driving around, for me it is looking at the model and saying 'I made that'. I would love to get to the SDR but can't see how at present

Thanks again, Phil

Looking at some pictures on line of 5786 on the South Devon Railway it looks like there is a floor some 9" (guess) above the running board / metal cab floor level. Is this right? was it metal or wood? any better pics?

Thanks, Phil

I have used Model Engineer Laser a few times and Malcolm puts the invoice in with the delivery, no money up front. We model engineers must be honest chaps

I have just got some number plates for my 5" gauge Pansy from STEAMPLATES, very pleased, worth a look

Thanks Julian, any drawings appreciated - the coupling looks good. Are the lamps that Blackgates sell any good? they didn't have any at the Bristol show I like to think that I have a well equipped workshop but I do need smaller fingers and better eyes, especially for these fiddly bits. If the lights are ok and the coupling drawing is on its way this really leaves the vacuum brake coupling and steam heating - any info on these?

Thanks a lot, Phil

Thanks but no use to me, anywhere else?

Phil