Member postings for Manofkent

The oli level glass is at the back of the machine - sort of above the motor behind the headstock - and is combined with the oil fill and drain on my L5. The L5 is an excellent machine in my (biased) opinion...

Hi Malc. I am a member in Taunton Somerset. An excellent group, not very many of us but good mostly retired engineers of all types. I have found it a refreshing challenge, and thoroughly recommend joining.

I moved my Harrison L5 using a 1 ton capacity braked trailer hitched to my car. I got the lathe off the trailer using an engine crane, and rolled it on shortened scaffold tubes into its place in the garage. All single handed.

I have learned the hard way how important it is to let the item cool before trusting a measurement! Other than that a spray from a can or washing up bottle is less messy around the chuck than putting the coolant pump on

John (Olsen). Thank you for this. Most helpful. Mine is an outside admission piston valve, so I am relying on a crack of air from the drain cocks to tell me when steam will be first admitted. Your description of the eccentrics relative to the track etc is great, and I will give this a go. Are the opposing eccentrics (front and back) going to be at 180 degrees to each other as a general rule?

John

This is a problem I have wrestled with in the last few weeks. Now, I do exactly as the details say, but which way do you turn the eccentric to match before securing? If I get it wrong the valve will travel the wrong way - ending up with one forward and one reverse! So - is there a golden rule for the direction and placement of the eccentric please?

I'm with Farmer Dave on this. I tried a cheap 2kw fan heater for a while and was cold. Then I bought the Screwfix workshop heater 2kw. It is quieter, has a "black" heater element and is much warmer.

Money well spent in my opinion.

I was told recently that engineering apprentices at a local college make stationary steam engines as their project. Part of the judgement of the quality of workmanship is to run the engine on the lowest possible compressed air pressure. The better the build the better it runs.

I was told recently that engineering apprentices at a local college make stationary steam engines as their project. Part of the judgement of the quality of workmanship is to run the engine on the lowest possible compressed air pressure. The better the build the better it runs.

Derek. I see you plan to purchase a mini mill soon. I bought a proxxon now mf70 for some small bits I wanted to make (I also have a "normal" mill), but got a CNC conversion kit as well. I wouldn't be without it now. All those tricky shapes like expansion links, connecting rods etc are so easy now. Just a thought.

Hi Izack. I have 2 or 3 unused machine hacksaw blades lying around from a qualter donkey saw. I don't know what to do with them. Do contact me if these could be of use - yours for the postage cost.

john

It looks like the stand of a comparator. These were always pretty solidly built.

Thanks guys. You have saved me a lot of hassle in the future. I will be hunting for a slab of bronze at the midlands exhibition on Thursday.

Hi

I am just starting the boiler fittings for my 3 1/2" gauge pacific loco.

I have a lot of aluminium and a little brass / bronze.

Having short arms and deep pockets (!) I wondered if I could use the Aluminium to make the regulator valve which sits in the boiler. There are no brazed parts on this - I am using a Southern Disc type design.

I expect there is a compelling reason why this is a bad idea - can anyone enlighten me please?

Many thanks

My thanks to all for this advice. Looks like threaded copper stays, silver soldered outside first ( !), nutted and comsol on the inside. This should be pretty straightforward with my cyclone burner.

Julian - apologies for calling you Julienne - not intended - it's this dam ipad that keeps finishing words for me!

really grateful for all your comments.

john

Thanks Julienne. That's helpful.

I have two propane torches with a range of a Sievert burners.

what material would you suggest for the threaded stays? Is it Gunmetal?

john

I am finishing a boiler for the Martin Evans 3.5" gauge Jubilee tank.

The firebox is so narrow I am not sure how to complete the stays. ME says to soft solder them, but on previous boilers my club inspector have always frowned when soft solder is mentioned. If it is to be silver solder how do I get enough heat for the job.

i should mention it is a belpair shape, and the back head is already on.

has anyone out there made one of these (or similar) and if so how is it done please?

many thanks

I see it is located in Usk. I nearly fell for a similar scam once - located in remote Scotland. A friend telephoned the local post office who confirmed the address was a summer holiday letting property! This would only work in small villages of course!

Hello. I too have the loco Pamela. It is rather old and I will have to renew the axleboxes. Does anyone know where castings for this Loco can be bought. I can't see it on the Reeves website. I ask just in case I break a wheel when removing it from the axle.

Many thanks

Is that Neil the Naughty engine then!

If it is possibly a freelance then the builder would probably be using something to base his model on.

Does the model look like anything else? i.e. the cylinders and valve gear?

I know its a long shot.

I will try and put up a pic ofg the boiler in the morning - a short stubby monster with a huge firebox - brazed (yes brazed) all around. Untidy but I reckon it will be strong.

Thanks

john