Member postings for KEITH BEAUMONT

That was an amazing and very interesting video. My Father joined the RAF in 1921 as an Engine Mechanic. I still have his beatuifuly written note book of the Gnome Monosoupape when he was on a course,firrst dated April 3rd 1923.. Watching the video and with this notebook in front of me I was able to folow his notes easily.. I remember him telling me that the plug leads were piano wire and needed constant re-tensioning due to the centrifical force on them. I still have, somewhere, the gauge he made while on that course to check tension. The wire is placed in and around a pillar, that moves against a scale when tension is increased.

Keith.

Emgee, Tug, I wondered about the Perry carb at the time. In fact ,it was the first time I hade seen one. To mount it with its side screw fixing,a very neat,shaped flanged stub tube with two mounting screws to hold it all down on the front bearing housing is fitted. The front bearing is another type of Ali bushed in the housing. I have a suspicion that a ball bearing is fitted to the crankshaft, but I have not removed the front to see. The fins are integral with the steel cylinder. The plain piston has a deflector on the top, with matching space in the head. I have run it two or three times,with 5% fuel, getting 11600RPM. For some unknown reason ,I have not noted the prop size, probably a 10 x8". I did not notice any overheating problems..

Chis Boll did publish in ME in 2016,I believe as a .49cu/in Glow. He says ME made a mess of it ! I got hard copies of the drawings direct from Chris.

Keith

Tug, I agree about the odd prop driver. I does not relate to the rest of the engine ,which has been made by someone witth similar milling skills to yourself. Recently I have been re-testing some of my engines on a new rig that measures static thrust. Also sorting bits out to make another of Chris Bolls designs. This time an 8cc glow.

Keith

Tug, The unidentified engine is in my photos, in the Chennery Vee Twin album ,3rd row down.. Just in case you can recognise it.

Keith.

Tug, That is a fine looking model and should have an interesting future with the Merco 61 fitted.! Keep the information coming. In the 60s that was the engine to have for stunt flying. About 3 years ago, I was given an open cardboard box, by a friend of a friend, that contained several very dirty engines,that had belonged to his late father-in -law, a keen stunt flyer. One of these was a Merco 61 and like yours was totally gummed up. It cleaned up quite well, but I only removed the head and the backplate. It had a lot of carbon on the top of the piston, so had been well used,but still had super compression and had clearly been looked after. On test, my notes show it was running at just over 12000 RPM with an 11 x 6" Master prop. Also in the box were 7 Cox.049, all different, plus another glow engine of about 8cc that I have been unable to identify. General opinion is that it was a hand made prototype.

That implies that those that add vat to the items only are incorrect. I hope I have not opened a can of worms here!

Keith

I notice that some suppliers quote the inc vat price on an invoice, then add the postage,etc, so vat is only charged for the item(s). Others quote the minus vat price, add the postage ,etc, then add the vat to the total, meaning we are also paying vat on the postage charge. This obviously makes an item a lot more expensive than it first looked and I wonder which way is correct.

Keith.

If you wish to try decanting ether from an aerosol engine starter,the JOHN DEERE version is 80% ether and works well. The other 20 % are Cetane improvers and lube. I ignore the 80% factor and call it 100% for mixing. The BRITAX version is only 50% ether and I have not had much success with that.

Keith

Tug,

Thanks Tug, I am very pleased with the green too.I could not make my mind up whether green would look OK, I then thought of using a green felt pen to see the effect and that convinced me. I do not do the anodising myself. I have a local firm who is happy to do my bits.

Keith.

Rod,

Thanks for your comments and I hope you have overcome your copywright problem.! I hope Neil notices I have gone "Green"

Keith

Hi Niels,

I have put a message in your box.

Keith

Niels, I will contact him for permission to send you his e mail address, by message.

Keith

Emgee,, It started out at 1.5" diameter, and did make a lot of swarf. With my record with inserting photos,any vid will probably run backwards!

Keith

I have recently completed another of Chris Bolls diesel engine designs, this time the Boll- Major 4.4cc (Not quite 5cc Tug!) Chris designs engines to be made from bar stock and with the minimum of frills to encourage modelers with the minimum of equipment to try their hand at making an I/C engine. Such a design therefore gives you the opportunity to alter things as you wish. I have done just that and only used the original Bore,Stroke and timing. Everything else has been modified in some way to suit my way of working. Chris has seen my modifications and approves of them.

.I had no difficulty in getting it to fire up. To date it has had 6 x 3 minute runs at a rich setting and is turning over at around 6400 RPM with an 11"x4" Master nylon prop.. It is still a little tight so the revs will improve to the around 8000 rpm that Chris gets with his version. I have several different propellors to try out.

Once again I have failed to get my photos inserted in the correct order. I have clicked on them as I intended them to be, but they seem to always go in the reverse.

Keith.

Edited By KEITH BEAUMONT on 01/05/2021 17:39:53

Jason,

I was not thinking about absolute detail,so much as the use of small reder heads and the application of magnetic tape.

Keith

In reading this thread,although I will admit to being lost here and there, I would think that all the questions /problems of fitting a DRO to a WM 280V were set out in my article in MEW300, Fitting DRO to a Mini Lathe. It is just a question of scale. The system I installed has now been in use for two years and has not required any modification.

Keith

About the middle of last summer, I had just finished polishing the spherical ends of the tee bar for the compression screw of the diesel engine I was making, when I dropped it. I spent an hour looking and sweeping the floor,checking the sweepings with a magnet,etc,all to no good, so I made another one.

This morning as I was entering my garage/workshop, my neighbour, who was working on the front of his house and was high up on a ladder, told me that the gutter running above the door was full of moss. As it was dry I thought I might as well clean it out. When I was scooping the moss out of the gutter I saw something shiny and, guess what, it was my long lost tee bar! Just how it got in the gutter is anyones guess. I think the part bounced further than I had swepped and had ended up out side on my drive. Perhaps a bird was then attracted to it and took it up on the roof and then dropped it,so it rolled down in to the gutter. We do have a lot of Magpies around. At least I now have a finished tee bar that will fit my latest effort.

Keith.

I have the Scheppach/Aldi saw. Looking at your" video I would suggest you are putting a lot of down pressure on the cut.This afternoon I have cut a piece of Ali 2.5 x1.5" without any feel of jump . If I increased the down pressure it did cause a jump every revolution. Slackening off the pressure to my normal "feel" stopped it. The blades that came with mine are M42 and look well finished. I cannot visually detect any sign of a weld in either of the two blades supplied.

Keith.

Speedy Builder 5,

If you Google "How to make pulse jet reed valves" there is a Video of an Aussie making them by electro etching, using a simple battery charger and a common salt bath. For some reason I cannot fix a link.

Keith

Old School,,

Now that you have given yourself the idea,you must carry it out. Think of the noise it will make! Check the leaf valves are still OK first.though.

Keith