Member postings for clogs

very nice idea........

can I ask how much said parts cost to get made.........

thanks

Like Clive lost count of how many times I was asked to DESTROY a bumble bee nest.......

I was a reg Beekeeper with (25 hives) and emergency reponse call out for the local council and the police for swarms....

I always tried to talk them out of killing the nest.....

Usually quite soon the council would turn up and kill the nest anyway because of moronic humans......

Actually...

I was almost ready to take my Master Bee Keeper Cert but suddenly became super sensitive to the venom....

Had to quit, broke my heart......

just to add ....chips cooked in BEEF dripping or oil when hot.........mmmmmmm

hahaha........

but normally cos of cholesterol usually olive oil......still naughty I know but living in S/ Europe

it's cheap as CHIPS........hahaha.......

G-Day.......

Kiwi Bloke

understand fully BUT often it one of conveinience regarding oils n lube's........

I have at least 6 vehicles and many stationary engines on my plot.........

Have to keep enough XXap around to keep everything running.....

I just dont need more stock........

and after years of doing the AUTO product lubes......and have never had a problem........

2 big milling machines and 3 lathes at the moment plus tons of other gear.....

Almost 71 and still working 7x365......

I will still recomend Synthetic engine oil, Auto trans fluid and Chainsaw blade oil.........

over n out.........

did say before, had a metal cupboard full of weird and wonderful oils n grease's........

had to downsize due to a big move......and sick of the fluff n mess anyway......

Now only use Synthetic engine oil on all oiling points inc bedways.....inc the oil pump system on the Bridgeport.....

Chain Saw oil on the back gears (just a Few drops).....

and if there is a proper gearbox (Colchester Student) I use the RED Auto trans fluid in there.....

it's ANTI-FROTHING....

also ripped out the useless ball bearing oil caps on my Myford and replaced them with tiny oil droppers where room permits and disc magnets where not....just fill em full every day I use the machine...

was never happy with the oiling arrangement on the end bearings on the Student (the lead screw, tailsock end  

so drilled and tapped another oil hole and put drippers on there.....now I can see oil ouze from the bearings......

thaiguzzi.......

rather like ur degree circle.....tool post.....

as I'm getting olde this would make a good add on.........

did u make it......?

ta

I worked for an oversea's firm with it's RnD in the UK.....

the finished machine ran out at just over £4.5mill......

Our part was about a Mill......

All designed by Persons not knowing one end of a spanner from the other........yes, bias'd view.....

I spotted a major design fault, on telling the powers that B of the prob..... was told that it was calculated by a computor code by somebody with more letters after his name than the Alphabet......and not a low life like me.....

Neadless to say machine No 2 destroyed itself......

I was called to the office as the person in charge/responsible for the build......

Turned out I was correct in my thinking......

My very first eMail ever was to send (now known as a Round Robin) to all concerned...that I was not happy with the design....

that got my head of the block......

Outcome of the headache......a major refit of the machines and the £4.5mill......well, that was swept under the carpet as apperently the whole project was funded by the EU.......

so thats all right then...!!!!!!!!!!

there will ALWAYS be them in suits and us with dirty hands.....

could go on but very few in the design office will ever earn my RESPECT.....rant over.....hahaha

now 70 and enjoying my retirement thanks......

Totally agree but as per Usual managment prefer pub lunches than re invest it the product.....

have a little used 6" Sq top Student....(can trace its history from new)....love it......

but then have 3 phase at home.......

Shame is u can import "broom sticks" from China and make more money via eBay.......!!!!!!!

have repaired most of my work /walking boots with Polyurethane glue.....Comes in a tube a bit like Silicone......

IT's my go to heavy glue these days.......flexable and totaly w/poof.....

apply the glue, then put gentle weight on the item to hold the parts together ......

24hours and hey presto job done.....

My work boots regardless of make always has the soles peeling off at the toes.....(scrubbing around on floors)

the rest of the boot falls aparts before the toes go again....

Available in all colours and not so expensive anymore......

just use and RTV silcone sealant...u don't need much and it's what car manufacturers use now.....

get mine from the States......

u can even get it in dif colours as well as clear......

would have thought it'd be easy to make it urself.....

nice peice of round bar say 14/15mm dia....and a modified broken drill shank at the least for the cutter......

secured into a hole pre drilled into the shaft.....

no need for complication....it's only ally....

woz it a proper firms rods n flux or off the bay of Fleas....?????

ta

I got the idea from MR S O duffer........

my lathe is a Student sq top......sorry cant load the photo's.....

but

used a deck lever from a 60's ride on mower with a long adjustment rod to the motor mounting plate......

life is so much better now....

is it me or does there seem to be a lot of problems with Warco lately....?

I was gonna buy one of their milling machine, little used......

begining think glad I didn't........

now have a Bridgeport......

I run an old 6" Student sq top.......

found when I bought it it was coverd in a thick dried oil glue.....

partic in the notches and indents around the gear selctor (threading)

but it could be as simple as a loose nut/bolt on the selector mech.....

R the levers loose and / or moving fully ?????

try the simple things first cos it's usually them.....

I should get mine outta storage v/ soon if u get stuck pm me.....

be happy to help......

if it's the same aucioneers I was gonna use it's not the end of the price fixing....and there are others.......

(buyer beware, not the items it's the machine auctioneers)......

and they charge for everything.....

what I was looking at ended up with fees almost double......

and u can only move the items on their timescale......

forget em......better wait and buy privately.....

the more people buy from these clowns the more they can get away with......

I'd like a new Merc and a Learjet for me hols........but then some of us have to ACTUALLY work for a living.......

ps,

looking at the length of ur collet chuck u could machine a couple of flats for another spanner to hold the chuck body whilst u undo the ring nut I suppose.......

But I've not found it necc..........

Bill, this is quite a common problem.....

have the same thing on my Bridgeport and Myford VMF mill's...

on the Bridgeport use a low gear and shock the collet spanner with my hand.....

simmilar on the VMF but have to use a spanner on the quill.....

BUT u dont need to tighten the collet nut very tight in the first place.....

just a good nip is all u need.........

there are all kinds'a mod to use air guns and drill drivers to Auto / ease the change-over of tooling

but I don't need a production problem solver.....

for me using these machines is for pleasure, NOT a race.....

can't explain a good nip, but use the spanner on the draw bar nut and then give the collet ring a good nip.....

practice will help....

I've been undoing nuts and bolts all my life and can't explain the feel.....

unless ur hogging metal off on the mill the cutter will not come loose anyway.....regardless of what others may say...

never happened to me in my lifetime....and sometimes I'm machining on the edge of what should be OK....hahaha...

this is providing the cutter and the collet chuck it's free of oil and metal swarf....

I always use an airline to clean the chuck before use and cutter swap over....

if u have an old cutter u could mount it in the collet holder and try to turn it with pipe pliers to gauge how tight u need the ring nut to be......

wish I was local to show u how I do it.....sorry.......

last time I used this "Crackle finish paint".....

was very easy......warm the item up in the oven....wife was out....hahaha.....

spray on the paint (aerosol) and it Crackles in front of ur eyes.....

waited several days before touching the item....

Harley cast iron cylinder barrels.......

the paint went hard and the heat did not affect the finish,

but they did stink for a while when warming up the engine for the first time...

easy peasy........

I nearly bought a WM mill......

after reading this and other problems with the brand.......RATHER glad I didn't.....

with all the world sales I would have thought that the factory should have got it right by now.......

Overpriced and over comes to mind.......