Member postings for clogs

Hi all,

anybody know anyone in Hollywood......get this lad a job.......

Great stuff, like Mr,Duffer it took me a while to figure them out.....

Terrific job.........Clogs

Martin,

exhaust are "Aluminium'ised" (some sort of electro coated steel ) with some of the special bit's near the engine that are now often Stainless...silencer's are mostly, not welded anymore, just crimped.....on the older but newish types of exhaust they we're made from zinc plated biscuit tins but as soon as they we're welded there was no protection from the water inside or out.....hence rust at the seam's......

And

the Jap's took hold of everything with engines because the Axxx Hole's in management that we're to busy getting pissed or playing golf or believing the gen public don't know any better and will buy what ever crap they produced by like's of "RED LEN" .?????? whatever.....

Note to self, some new things are quite good.........hahaha........

Clogs

I know what ya mean Duncan,

but I'm lucky enough to have place with a car lift and room enough to move about.....my current vehicles are a 1989 Reno Extra 1.6 D...the speedo stopped at 380,000klms and still does over 60 to the gall...when I bought it I just dropped out the eng/g/box replaced the clutch, w/pump , t/belt etc etc that was 100,000 klm's ago.....the other is a, 99,T4 5 seater Transporter D, (my forever car) that's got 330,000klms on it, new engine and clutch, replaced all the sus joints, needed or not + the brakes etc etc.....neither of them has any rust holes and the paint aint pretty......u just gotta spend a few quid at the start and usually all will be well..... My other old vehicle is a 1928 Citroen C4 pick up, just made or replaced ALL the wearing items, bearing's, bushes etc etc.......not cheap but she'll be an almost daily driver when the body is finished.....

Old cars are great but u can't do it on the cheap....do the job once but do it properly......besides, mostly these old cars get more valuable with age....not like the newer models.....

if I need to go ball's to the wall on long distance, there's plenty of cheap rental car's that u can drive like u stole it....

No, I'm not rich but have a weird take on life......

Oil on ya shoes, bee's in ya hair......hahaha.......clogs mmmmmm, Castrol "R"...........

Thanks all,

taking in the recommendations ........

Neil W....what a work of art !!!....it'd be good if I could draw that free hand let alone live long enough to get the skill/knowledge to do something like that.......

all I'd be happy with is square box's and the another box coming of at right angles, a pointy roof and stairs.......absolutely nothing fancy.......

again many thanks.....Clogs

Hi Bazyle,

that's why I only use St/Steel rivnuts plus in general everything under 8mm dia I always use St/St fasteners anyway that's unless of course it need's high strength.......

St/St fasteners bought in bulk are almost as cheap as Zinc plated......if you have too......look at Screw fix prices and let's face it most general fastener's are made in Asia anyway and nobody will admit it.......

Clogs

Hi Mark, I can assure u that they work a treat......

I tend to buy just the stainless sort......that kit with those pop-rivet type pliers are ok but if u want to use them on a regular basis get a heavier plier setting tool....mine is the concertina type.....I would say, that set properly they are as strong as nut's in shear but not quite so reliable in pull out situations but Ok for light loading..........

ONE thing to point out that the hole they fit in HAS to be very accurate in size, u only have a 1/4 mill for a good fit....to tight, u can't tap em in....to loose and the set is not so good......they are available to suit various thicknesses of metal and with or without a counter sink head..........

I have some that can be used in 10mm thick plate.....for this job in question it was use these nut's or drill and tap about a hundred 10mm bolt holes working of a ladder.....on that job I only used new drill bits....once they started to blunt ---change em....if the drill fluts get worn i.e. with thick metal u get probs with the fit of the nut's....on thin metal not such a problem....after u've done a few u get the feel of them....even some times a quick flick with a file will just clean up the holes enough.....they are life saver at times......

Clogs

Hi Clive,

that system was also used in Submarines.....after a designed time period they had to take in fresh air to re-charge the air top up system but also to remove the Hydrogen (I think) from the huge battery banks......

what upsets me most is those wonderful Gardner 4LK's that went to the bottom ...I wanted one for an antique truck conversion....anyway.......

also, the Diesel engine will run on it's exhaust with just a wiff of pure Oxygen......that's if u can afford it......

I think, if the Yanks said as from Jan 1st, 2020 no petrol, diesel vehicle will be sold to the gen public we'd soon be driving using Hydrogen or such like .....

over to u.......Clogs........

HI, just 2 penny worth.....read till the end please.......

all the salt that eats car's works out just fine for the manufactures.....!!!!!! So when the dam things are eaten away by the rust bug or as the norm these days, nobody can fix the electronic crap, hence it goes the scrappers......

How much extra does it cost the environment to make replacement vehicle......(emissions from the power station)....than rebuild a perfectly good old'un.....

I for one run pre 1990 Diesel vehicles with no electronic's.......infinitely repairable.....luckily cavity wax filled from new.....

When I worked in california, we used to go to the junk yard buy a nice car (not to banged about) then buy a later (new) engine and trans from the factory, rebuild the chassis components, brake and susp, get the Mexicans to replace the upholstery and a repaint .....all this for a little over 1/2 the cost of a new'n.....no contest really....everybody was doing it.....

thats until the FED's offered a price to scrap the older cars that went for trade in.....RING ANY BELL"S......

I had a sweet mid size type EL-Camino pick-up, V8 Diesel (6.3) and was just gonna buy a 60's Ford Thunderbird with a continental pack, (spare in the r/bumper sort) but I had to come back to blighty......

U see it's all crap, the country need emission problems so that the gov can get extra tax's out of us.....if everybody quit smoking where would the tax money come from next...?????....

u get more shxte out of politician gob than u get from a Diesel......Rant over.......hahaha...

sorry, but keep the old car's going..............

HI all,

guess this'll open a can of worms but here goes......

I like to down-load a simple easy to use (if there is such a thing) and free, Cad drawing program, suitable for the latest version of iMac and the elderly.....hahaha..

I would like to design a house and lay out a new workshop......have tried with graph paper and cut out's but it generally ends up with the cat having fun or "clear the table cos ur T is ready"......

it would be nice to learn how to use the system for engineering related topics BUT only simple stuff.......as yet don't want to draw gear's etc but happy to practice on rainy nights.......

Any suggestion please? ta Clogs

Well many thanks.....you have made it quite fathomable now.......

I was always taught that 3 phase was a "black art" .....he,he.........

Because I'm looking for a place that will need a 3 phase supply, (not alway's supplied as standard) the three wire system was making me loose sleep....it's alway difficult to explain what you want and then in another language and now I have a further understanding of how it goes I feel a lot better....when I first visit a property I look at/for the power lines, usually overhead.....I don't want a place without 440volt......Madame looks at the house and all the silly bits, all I care about is the site for the new workshop and if you can get an Artic down the driveway ......Simples.....

Ta Clogs......

Hi all,

be nice to clear up something.....living out in the sticks......I understand the 4cable system from pole to pole.....3 live and 1 neutral......BUT more and more I'm seeing just three wires between poles......we are talking thick heavy wires along country roads..........where is the neutral, do they use one phase as a neutral return ?????? As 240v needs a neutral what do they then use on this 3wire system......just need to get my head around it......thanks.......Clogs.....

Hi Alan,

often have to the same job myself and in st/st.......I use a small pilot drill then hit it with say a13mm to within 5mm of the required depth.......once that's done just open it out with rotorbroch's as close as poss to the finish size....then clean up with a boring bar.....

I was lucky to buy a large job lot of rotorbroaches and an er42 collet chuck....it really doesn't take long.....slow chuck speed and loads of coolant, you soon learn to feed in at a firm steady pace....just watch out for long razor sharp waste......

Clogs

I'm with Russell on this one......

those old BSP taps + dies, large and small I nearly threw out on my move here (inherited and quite rusty) has saved the bacon or should say the cheese of many a French mate......oh yes, there are a few nice people here.....hahaha....

I think that even in the US of A they use BSP ? Do they, over to you......

Clogs.......

Hi Andrew,

my dad had a brilliant rooting of the stuff', in the same place for forty years.......after he died I dug up 1/2......it never took, as ur neighbor, everything I bought also died......now I just think of Rhubarb crumble along with Goseberry pie as something from the past.....fond memories, the same as Spotted dick etc....

.good on you......Clogs

John.

sound like loads'a fun.........all the best.....Clogs.......

Tim,

this will be prob to late for you but.......when apprenticed a v/large Ford main dealer's 40 odd years ago we used to repair/overhaul the diff's from the complete range of model's......I cannot remember the numbers/preload values but in all cases we used (gen Ford part) a thin walled tube as a spacer between the bearings.......the nut a 1" ish all metal locking nut was used to set the preload....the tube was crushed/deformed and everything held in place by the Self locking nut... The new oil seal was already fitted, Fords allowed for the oil seal drag in the spec's.....

There was no specific torque value on the nut although over time we worked it out to get the lower pre-load limit to speed up the job, the preload was measured using a long bar with a measured scale and a weight locked to the bar with a thumb screw bolt ....giving lbs ft---hence drag/pre load........

this bar was bolted to the front flange of the diff with a plate, a hole in the plates centre was big enough for the socket and an additional couple of pins was used so as to attach a locking bar making it possible to tighten the locknut without taking the weight bar off.....turning the whole pinion shaft assy (weight bar as well) a few times (after tightening the nut, EVERYTIME) to settle the bearings in.....

Normally this took about 5-10mins to set up with practice.......remember if u got the preload too tight it was nec to strip it out and replace the tube.........then of course u need to start the whole process again.......

REMEMBERING, at no time can you loosen the nut......if you need to loosen the nut the crush tube will need to be changed.........sounds difficult but it was a very easy job to do......

hope this may help.....this idea would/should be quite adaptable and Ford used this method on millions of cars....Clogs

U, naughty boy,

you just may getaway with it, perhaps a few may get wasted... Why not make new spokes from something suitable, I know the standard end that attaches to the hub would be diff but what about making the end a hook.....don't think it'd look outa place....I'm sure u can make the hooks small enough (heat) and look identical......those early bikes can be quite ''rustic''......

be nice to see the finished article....Clogs.....

Rex,

as a temp-semi permeant fix, how about cutting up an old/punctured commercial/farming inner tube...they are pretty stretchy and thick walled, I'm sure u'll get something close diameter wise.....I make them into bands to keep ratchet straps tidy...... this should either do or give u time to save up for the import duty.....

good luck Clogs

HI J.Noci,

as I work with old stuff (motorcycle tractors and machinery), hence weird size bearing's I seem to remember a firm well actually a Mum + Dad effort who will modify existing bearing's ...........in the blurb they say they'll regrind etc a new bearing to match and older sized or specials.... AND refurb bearings , they showed a cup and cone bearing that was rebuilt for a very early m/cycle.......

Whilst I under stand headstock bearing are very, very special these people and other's may be able to help in more normal bearing placements.......

These people advertise in the likes of Classic Bike etc and based in the UK ........I mention this out of interest to others in our community as all is not lost when bearing size's cause a problem........

Clogs

Hi, I would say the same as Kwil...the hammer action will tighten an loosen the bolt with ease, should u worry holding the quill in ya mit will be enough........Mind the bigger impact wrenches, on my mill the quill bolt is only 3/8UNF.....the threaded part won't let go but I feel this long rod will wind up and snap eventually, I suppose u could make a heavier shafted bolt.....I'd like the system myself but for two reasons, not enough head room and I'd need a ladder......yes, yes, I know u can have the controls lower down but there's enough going on around the quill already......still need room for the mug of tea !!!!!!!.....clogs