Member postings for michael darby

Powder coating is a con. it is simply paint which is hardened in an oven. the paint drys before the base material is even warm and very hard. Once the item is in sevice,the material expands and contracts and the "Hard " paint cracks,allowing moisture under the top coat (no undercoat used). in all my time in contract engineering, I have never seen 1 successful application

At 5mm you wont have much holding it. The stud will be tapered to allow the cutter to start the thread and the nut likewise

Sorry, thinking of box section. You could always counterbore the bar and fit a nut in the recess

You could open the top hole and use a regular nut tightened with a socket

Yes, its possible. but if the public are anywhere near it, get it built and certified.

Tig would be a complete fusion of the joint,if done correctly .where as silver solder is simply a "glue" at microscopic level.A TIG welded joint will out perform silver soldered in all tests.

closed cell neoprene foam is available,and should do the job

Any Gate manufacturer will have 12mm sq black bar.its dirt cheap look for a local place and call in

The problems that most beginners have is that they use either cheap or old electrodes that they are given with the welder, you need electrodes which are suitable for use with the power source you have available.They need to be kept perfectly dry( any moisture turns to steam and creates spatter and holes in the weld)A high volume of iron powder in the coating will assist in the free running of the rod and allow it to be "dragged" along the joint with little weakening of the weld structure.Also choose an electrode size that your power source will cope with . Most power sources will cope with 2.5mm (90-120amp)some 3.25mm (110 -140 amp) and a few 4mm (130-180 amp)

The so called "upset expert "is nothing more than a pratt . the whole purpose of this type of forum is to exchange ideas and further knowledge.The OP should ask as many questions as he likes, and those with the appropriate knowledge ,I am sure,will be only too willing to help, in order assist the OP.

He would have used a nickel based filler which as I stated earlier would not have "Welded" the joint " because the filler could not use up the free carbon it would have "adhered" to the iron molecules in the casting forming a nickel rich iron moleclue. the problem with this is that you have free carbon atatchments to the iron creating brittle edges within the structure of the material hence the post heating cycle to attempt to reduce the brittle edges

The only way to "WELD" cast iron is using oxy /acetylene. Any other systenm is adhesion on a microscopic level.The problem is the free carbon available in the cast iron which has a tendency to embrittle any filler material. The use of nickel helps to reduce this tendancy,because it does not combine with the carbon.

"Stainless" is not always the answer. it does not suit some applications and not all "stainless " bolts purchased are what you expect to purchase. There is a lot of cr&p out there

You can weld that quite easily using oxy/acetylene and cast iron filler material .you will need a flux to float off any carbon in the casting.

For a better finish, try iron powder electrodes they will give a smoother finish with less dressing needed Try esab femax 33.80

You certainly dont want HARD you need tough hard will shatter

Try your local fabricators or sheet metal shop,they will have the necessary equipment

its simple really ,as the piston goes down ,it creates a low pressure in the cylinder the inlet valve opens and air rushes into the low pressure area through the carburetor as it passes over the jet it sucks petrol out of the jet into the cylinder. the bigger the jet the more fuel the bigger the carb more air. theneedle is tapered and controls the amount of fuel. small amounts for slow running larger amount for fast running, some carbs do not use a needle and have more than 1 jet to achive a similar result.

Engines are "tuned" for different reasons, the car engines are set up to be reliable and economical. race engines are usually tuned for outright power.,which loses the reliability and economy. basically its about getting the largest charge,ie fuel/air mixture into the cylinder and producing the biggest bang. this could involve larger carburretor, longer injection timing,higher valve lift,longer valve opening timing and higher compression. but everything is a trade off more power means shorter component life more wear and less reliability.

The hammer is called a Monday hammer,we had them in heavy fabrication shops for "setting" the edges of plates prior to rolling, My mates dad who was about 10 stone wet through could swing it all day,I couldnt even lift it over my head.