Member postings for Bezzer

My Clarke 300 was always bolted down to a 30ish mm workbench, was luckily level from the off with no need to shim it., Needed to be fixed down anyway a couple of years ago as I got fed up of blowing the control board and fitted another motor and pulley set, it's currently loose and in a corner while I decide what to finally do with it.

Didn't think a Tornado had a rounded end cap and is Hungarian not Czech.

The rounded off bit on the trigger that holds the piston cocked is the sear. It can be worked on to give a more positive safe lock when cocked but usually needs a bit of experience to make it a safe useable progressive firer, What make is it ? because there's a surprising amount of spares for loads of older rifles about and you might find a replacement trigger unit is readily available which would save a lot of hassle.

That's a BP light propane cylinder, same as I was on about.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 29/12/2014 12:50:34

Patio gas cylinders are nothing special, they're just a standard propane cylinder with a quick connector. Calor do them as a "special" type and don't push them for other uses. BP on the other hand sell BP Lite -a lightweight propane container with the same 27mm quick connector as Calor ones and advertise them for for patio heaters, caravans, boats etc. I've got a pair in our touring caravan, just needed a readily available pigtail to fit the bottle to the van's regulator. You can get a regulator/quick connector unit for them.

Had a Staffy for the last 7 years, worst dog we've ever had, literally autistic. Give me Rottweilers any day, biggest mistake we ever made to go for a smaller dog for caravanning.

You sure it's a left hand thread, is it in the manual?, mains and battery ones, though not Makita, I've done in the past have always been normal right hand. Stands to reason they should be right hand as the majority of time the drill is being used forward not reverse.

I cant see you drilling through a stack of 50, the key to stainless is to keep steady constant pressure all the way through. The slightest let up forms a hard layer in the stainless even on the easily drilled 304, 316, 430 etc. However you  clamp them up there will always be a miniscule gap between each one which will cause a bit of rubbing/hardening and it will become harder the deeper you go quickly dulling the drill. Drilling pilot holes is also a bad idea for the same reason. I've drilled 10mm holes in 316 and 430 sheet using HSS in one with no problem. May take a a lot longer but I'd be doing them one at a time, if you've got some scrap pieces try it and see.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 06/11/2014 23:51:50

Bikes and model/home engineering hobbies go together in a lot of ways for a lot of people, particularly over 50s as they were brought up in the era of DIY repairs and mechanics. From spotty youths bodging things up to keep on the road or trying to make it go faster evolving into an older and hopefully wiser adult who decides try and do bigger and better things and joins the ranks of the amateur engineering types. What was initially just a one track bike hobby then evolves into a wider engineering one.

They are both mainly "loner" hobbies and fit well together, I reckon most people on here enjoy a club meet or show but are most at home out alone on their bike or in their workshop.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 20/10/2014 11:46:03

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 20/10/2014 11:48:03

Airgun and Paintball regulators are pretty small, not too hard to make and there's plenty of info/designs out there such as

**LINK** and **LINK**

sorry another hobby blinded me, you probably want a constant one not an intermitttent.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 27/07/2014 23:08:19

Replacing HT fixings on things like suspension and brakes I can see the point and though I've never done it myself I know of plenty that do on classic and modern machines and I've yet to hear of a failure on any of the many bike forums I visit.

Engine mount bolts clamp up tight with spacers with no free length to stress a particular area of the bolt ,I have and would still use stainless for them in a cradle frame.

Jamie - ring Steve's stainless as I posted earlier, he does the long bolts.

I've replaced a few M10 and M12 bike engine long mounting bolts and used stainless as have loads of other people I know with no problem. They are usually M10x1.25 and M12x1.5 fine threads but I just bought standard thread ones, used a penny washer turned down to the OE diameter if need be instead of a flange and nyloc nuts to secure. Never had one loosen or cause any problem.

They are hard to find at that length I get mine from Steve's stainless, you should be able to get a 200mm long one then cut to length and add any extra thread length with a die.

**LINK**

Know the feeling, wasn't looking forward to Saturday as the weathermen were predicting Armageddon but the sun was out most of the day .

Bought some tool inserts and milling cutters from Jenny, some left hand drills , replacement taps and dies from Tracey Tools, bit of metal stock and other odds an sods ready for the restoration of a wreck of a Suzuki Kettle I've just bought..

It's not common in general use as said but it does crop up regularly in automotive applications. You'll find it on BMW and VW cars and Suzuki motorcycles that I know of and probably loads more I don't have personal knowledge of.

Is it a metric or imperial version and have you checked the machine's manual threading section? you often find cutting metric on an imperial you ignore the dial indicator but have to leave the half nuts engaged permanently and stop/reverse at the end of each pass like a Chester DB10 I've got.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 31/01/2014 11:18:17

Not really, it's a Staffordshire Knot , Denbigh were from Tipton, Staffs, that's before border changes put Tipton into the West Midlands

Dunno if these are going to be any good but Lidl have a clip on GU10 LED spot for £3.99 on offer Moday 27th Jan, going to get the wife to call in and hopefully get a couple to try them out at that price.

**LINK**

Nothing simpler, jam nozzle into the ball and pump, it does push the ball a touch but the tapered nozzle does make a fairly good seal as well and usually no oil escapes around it. That's using a small can, the nozzles on the larger ones can be too big to seal well.depending on the oiler size.