Here is a list of all the postings Lloyd Bowers has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: SPARK PLUGS. |
07/03/2013 09:46:09 |
Posted by Graham Meek on 07/03/2013 09:27:06:
In his series of articles in ME April 1971, L. C. Mason says he sucessfully made some 4 BA spark plugs for his 4 Cylinder 4 cc 4 stroke engine, there is also a drawing for a 5/32 x 40 TPI spark plug with an Araldite insulator, these should be available digitally I would imagine. Gray, that would be good. ill have to start googling!!! cheers |
06/03/2013 19:55:07 |
OK thanks. I did say if I was keeping to scale I'd be looking at 3mm. But as a novice I didn't know what sizes are available or used normally. Ill have a bit more of a look and decide. I guess I'm going to be looking at 4-6mm. Thanks |
06/03/2013 14:14:40 |
some helpful comments thanks. dont know what way to go, scale version of 3mm is a bit small to work with. |
06/03/2013 13:08:04 |
ok im after 3mm if im keeping to scale, but i was looking at converting or making plug from nitro glow pulgs, i think there about 4-6mm. how do you make your own, or i should say what material do you use for insulating? |
06/03/2013 12:33:31 |
Hi all, question is sparkplugs. where do you get them or do you make them? im doing a specific one off 6cyl engine. and this is mostly my first model. although i do "dabble" and make lots of things. so sorry if some of my questions are simple or strange. |
Thread: squeak, squeal and chatter |
25/02/2013 21:23:04 |
well that was better, having some confidence and using wd40 it was loads better.
thanks all. again! |
25/02/2013 14:11:20 |
ok, thank you all, ill have to look at larger pulleys, or a back pulley system to lower the rpm. I only have hand feed, will try a few things and wd40.. thanks |
25/02/2013 10:44:23 |
ok cheers, i guess feeding too fast and it jams, so get a nice inbetween? just enough to stop the squeeling? will it cause any damage squeeling? Ive tried a 1/8th parting tool (blade and holder) which did the same but again i am taking it easy, so maybe feed a bit quicker. - i notice that sometimes the 1/8th did start to wobble left/right and causing a slanted cut, could that also be too lean on feed speed? |
25/02/2013 10:04:36 |
Posted by KWIL on 25/02/2013 09:18:53:
What are you cutting, what diameter and at what speed? im cutting an ofcut of steel, which is 18mm down to about 5mm. speed....slowest (which isnt that slow) on my exe 3.5 super. i know thats not much help but i dont reall know the RPM. i have a 50mm pully of my motor turing at a guess 150mm. you could probably guess or guage it better from my pic's. I guess thats one thing i should really know and work out. motor RPM and ratio's of pulleys. thanks for your reply.
Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 25/02/2013 10:05:57 Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 25/02/2013 10:06:17 |
25/02/2013 09:03:15 |
Am i right in thinking these are general the same thing first, squeak/squeal is chattering? or are they different, Im getting a squealing squeaky noice sometimes (tends to be when lightly cutting) while trying to cut a grove with a 3.5mm tip grove/parting tool. Ive centralised the tool. kept it sharp. I dont want to cut too quickly/heavy as im taking my time and also dont want to a jam and damage my workpiece or tool. is there something im missing to not doing right, or is it ok while cutting slowly? Am i right in thinking it will squeak because its sliding against the surface of the workpiece with not enough preasure or should i be using cutting fluid to stop this, will the squeal cause any problems (apart for annoying anyone close?) cheers |
Thread: thread / screwcutting and gears |
24/02/2013 21:00:59 |
good idea, i also found out that ive been a muppet, and the numbers stamped on the gear ar not the what all the gear are, so ive got 60, 52,46,32,32 and 28, which does give a bit more of a range, oh well, as they say, we learn something new every day, and it never stops. |
23/02/2013 23:46:40 |
well, it worked, talk about a steep learning curve, cut my own 55deg internal thread tool form hss steel. then turned the thread into the inside of the faceplate. (well after flattening the old thread) and now just touching up the outside. but it all worked well, even using the gears etc to get the right thread, i did turn it by hand though to cut the read, ensuring slow speed!!! thanks all for your help.. Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 24/02/2013 00:01:42 |
Thread: alinement of tailstock |
21/02/2013 11:29:18 |
ah ok , thanks. so as i have no point to bolt onto my saddle and my saddle top is fully used by the cross slide, ill have to use one bolted onto the side of the saddle. which will mean tapping a thread into the saddle? |
20/02/2013 22:45:05 |
cheers, will have a look. |
20/02/2013 21:29:59 |
If i want to buy (or i guess make if im adventurious) a travel steady, i need to check the hight from the base to the centre line (which is 2" 3/16th). im gessing this is the only main thing to check for? Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 20/02/2013 21:48:37 |
20/02/2013 21:11:25 |
AH, i think apologies are in order, ive been a bit dim, i dont know all the terminology (maybe some one can correct me) but i have the lump that sits on the lathe bed and moves with the leadscrew. A slide plate on top ( with the bolt slots) which slides 90deg to the bed. then bolted down to that is another slider (thinking about it this may be the cross slide, mines oneway???) this has my tool post (single mount). so the travel steady bolts using the slots in the 90deg slider? sorry fo rthe blond moment. |
Thread: thread / screwcutting and gears |
20/02/2013 18:32:23 |
the spindle is 1" 3/16th as a quick measurement and about 1/2 long. i think ill try and make it fit, if all else fails least ive practiced and learn from it, then if it all goes down the pan, i can buy one. cheers all for your help. |
Thread: alinement of tailstock |
20/02/2013 14:14:16 |
Posted by Ady1 on 20/02/2013 11:22:13:
travel steady's, Isnt the saddle the bit that slides across that the tool post is bolted to? do you cut to depth then stop and adjust travel steady to suit, otherwise it'll move away when cutting into the work piece? --- It goes on the back of the saddle and avoids the cross slide movement After each cut it does need to be adjusted so ill have to check to see if mines threadded in any way for a travel steady? if not can i just tap into it? |
20/02/2013 08:44:20 |
Posted by speelwerk on 19/02/2013 22:18:51:
For checking the alignment of the tailstock it is not necessary to turn the bar the full length, just the tail- and headstock end is enough, that is why you solder on the ends a larger diameter with a length, of ca.15mm, so can you pas the full length without taking a cut. Niko. yeah, i understood but didnt have the right sizes and kit etc at the time, it will be something i will make though. I guess i could mig 2 nut on to the bar?
Time is never kind when you have kids! Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 20/02/2013 08:45:04 Edited By Lloyd Bowers on 20/02/2013 08:45:40 |
20/02/2013 08:41:43 |
Posted by Ady1 on 19/02/2013 22:18:44:
The fixed steady goes on the lathe bed The travelling steady goes on the back of the cross slide saddle ok, got a fix steady which works well. travel steady's, Isnt the saddle the bit that slides across that the tool post is bolted to? do you cut to depth then stop and adjust travel steady to suit, otherwise it'll move away when cutting into the work piece? |
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