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Member postings for JP Santos

Here is a list of all the postings JP Santos has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Die head and chasers... got a bunch, no idea! swap for knowledge?
05/03/2023 17:48:35
Posted by Martin Kyte on 05/03/2023 17:44:06:

What a shame you didn’t pick up the Whitworth chasers. If you decide to sell one of the heads sit would make it so much more saleable.

regards Martin

Are they desirable? I can go back Monday evening for another look, i'm sure they'll still be there.
you mean one of the heads I have with whitworth would make it desirable?
I'll probably end up selling these 2 heads so I can buy a 3/4 head as that's the most of the chasers I have.

Didn't think they would be desirable, I have a bunch of Whitworth spanners, even tried to given them away, some good old english brands, tried everywhere, lathe groups, steam engines, etc... no one wanted. so I use them to when I need to modify a spanner, cut them, grind them, etc... it breaks my heart doing so, but was that was chucking in the skip after no one was interested.

05/03/2023 17:30:02

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for those photos, it helps!

While I was sorting all the bits out I had a dig about on the internet and ended up finding some more info.

So the dies heads I have are 1/2"...unfortunately only have 2 complete sets of thread chasers!

However... I have about 16 complete sets of 3/4" ! meaning I'll have to get a die head for the 3/4"

I did find a nice table with all the details on the chasers.
and also learned about how they are numbered (that's how I've put all the loose set together).

Guess next step now is to sell some of the big sets I have no use, some of the bigs taps and fund a second hand 3/4 die head.

One thing that I'm quite not sure yet is how to the attach them on the lathe. the one with the MT end, easy enough, straight on the tail stock, but the other one....? I seen some videos on youtube where people have held them on just a chuck, but somehow to me that doesnt look correct?
 

Lip type

 

Typical materials

 

 

 

coventrydiemarking150

 

 

 

 

S

s-lip

Low/medium carbon steels

AM5

am5-lip

High tensile steel

S5

s5-lip

Stainless (316, 303), Inconel

AS

as-lip

Stainless (S98, S99) Nimonic, Ni-chrome

B

b-lip

Brass free-cutting, Nylon

M

m-lip

Gunmetal, Phosphor bronze, Cast Iron

M5

m5-lip

Medium carbon steel, taper threads

M8

m8-lip

M8 Steel, acme threads

Edited By JP Santos on 05/03/2023 17:45:04

05/03/2023 13:00:57

Hi all.

here's me reaching out again for a little help.
Recently, a local machine / metal fabricator shop closed down after 50 years in business.
I went over and although I wanted to take a lot of the machines I don't have space, did get a N2 fly press and a bunch of stuff.

As everything little was likely to get to the scrap I managed to save a bunch of reamers, taps and dies.
And also 2 small die heads and a box full of chasers.
All UNF and UNC as that's what I use, there was a bunch of BSW and BSF but left that behind.

Now, I have seen these being used on youtube, but to be honest I don't have a clue, but always fancied having one for threading now and again. Never bought because they were kind of pricey, but as this was free... I want to learn now.

Could anyone explain what I have? It seems like 2 small die heads, the one that looks like it might work is missing the top plate though?
Also, only have a couple of chasers that will fit, all the others are bigger....
Although it does seems like I have a lot of sets of the same size, which I think they are 3/4... so I'd need a 3/4 die head? - I'm still sorting through the loose chasers in the big box.

Now... I have a bunch of this stuff, some of the big chasers I have no use, so I wonder if someone local to Andover, Hampshire would be interested in swapping for knowledge? show me on their lathe the use of a die head? maybe they have a die head spare that would fit most of my chasers and willing to swap for some of the bigger chasers? or some of the big taps I have?

thanks!

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Edited By JP Santos on 05/03/2023 13:01:30

Thread: Advice on lifting and moving lathe please
05/02/2023 20:59:24

I'm lucky in the sense of where to move from and to..

It's coming out of my single garage..so straight flat to the driveway and into the new garage, again all flat...

Thankfully no steps or awkward corners to negotiate.

Should be a pretty simple move but was worried if lifting by those blocks would damage it.

I really don't want to take anything apart, so to make it a more straight forward move..

05/02/2023 17:40:09
Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 05/02/2023 17:09:53:

Use strops,not chains,it you lift on the cast cross braces chains would be ok but as the motor adds weight to the rear of the lathe so there is a good chance that the lathe will tilt ,and a chain around the cross braces could rub or damage the machined edges of the bed,for machines of up to say 3 tons proffessional movers use strops, Larger modern machines tend to have lifting rings built in at the top of the machine,and then the crane will lift a ring and up to 4 chains with hooks, most modern machines that I have had some involvement with have large relatively flimsey covers and cannot be lifted with a strop around them. I doubt if your Boxford weighs 400 kilos i would have thought a lot less.Lifting on the bed castngs will not harm the lathe,as others have stated some lathes just have a tapped hole in the bed,My Colchester Triumph at around two tons could be lifted on one Tapped hole of around 1 inch UNC, just make sure the eye is stamped up with max weight,there are a lot of eyes around not marked and a bit suspect,

I did think that, with the move, the chains hitting the edges, I was planning on putting planks of wood either side to protect the edges, that should be ok?

05/02/2023 17:39:01
Posted by Bazyle on 05/02/2023 17:34:56:

You can put the strop through the bed close to the headstock and around a bit of 2x3 wood under the bed. Simple. Importantly then put a thin rope though the spindle, around the strop, and back through again to pull the strop close to the headstock otherwise it can sip down the bed. This also ensured the pivot point when lifting a bare lathe without a cabinet is above the CofG.
Last time I stripped a Boxford I weighted the bed alone and it was 60lb and i wrote it on it. Unfortunately that's the only marking left but I think the all up is more like 400lb than kg including cabinet.

ahhh you probably right! i read somewhere 400...so it was likely 400lbs, around 180kg then.
that's a good tip using the thinner rope to keep it close to the tailstock.

05/02/2023 16:25:07

Thanks for the tips so far, let me try answer them all.

Just been in the garage and mine doesn't have any holes on the cabinet near the top. I did see a photo like that online, with the solid bars across, but can't do that on mine.

Also no threaded hole to put a lifting eye.

I have a spare saddle, so I could at least strap that extra one to the lighter end to help counter balance even more.

I did read online about putting the saddle as far right as it can go, that's why it's already on that position on the photos.

My worry was really if lifting on those blocks would damage it.

I reckon we can do it, we are used to lift big block V8 chevy engines attached to gearbox into American cars.

05/02/2023 15:26:52

Hi all,

Hope someone can give some advice.

Im moving home soon and need to lift my little Boxford into the back of a van.

For this I'm planning on using and engine crane and a hoist leveller to help with the difference in weight at one end. There will be 3 of us doing this.

I tried to find ways of doing it but everything is in the way when I think of using straps - the motor, the gearbox, the lead screw, etc..

So I was planning on using the blocks in the middle of the bed, get the leveller chains through it, like on the photos, then connect the angled brackets with 1/2" threaded rod, about 6" long to keep them apart the same width as each block.

My question is, would lifting by these blocks risk damaging the bed? It's all pretty solid, but thought of asking the experts.... I think the lathe weights about 400kg

Thank you

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Edited By JP Santos on 05/02/2023 15:27:38

Thread: Is there a demand for Whitworth tools?
03/12/2021 10:03:09

thanks all for your input.
I have put them all back in the box as I needed the lift space back. I might chuck them all as a job lot on ebay and see what happens

01/12/2021 16:15:48
Posted by Gerard O'Toole on 01/12/2021 15:58:46:
Posted by Gerard O'Toole on 01/12/2021 15:55:01:
Posted by JP Santos on 01/12/2021 13:51:18:
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 01/12/2021 13:10:53:

You say you "mainly use Imperial" but don't need BSW/F spanners?

Many model- and preservation- engineers need them, though.

Put an ad. in the For Sale list here.


yes, I work, as a hobby on my old harleys and old american cars and have plenty of AF sockets and spanners.
the BSW/F spanners just sit in a box on the side, so I thought trying to find someone who could have an interest in them.

 

Sorry duplicate post.

Any fellow motorcyclist with AJS, Norton, Velocette , etc , or BSA/Triumph to early 60's would find good use for them. I have a couple of sets , as well as sockets but often pick extra items up at car boot sales etc. You should definitely sell them on to someone who might have more use for them. Or maybe ask at a local classic/vintage motorcycle club.


yes I see what you say, unfortunately everyone I know we have old harley or old american cars, dont know anyone with british classics, my first thought was trying here...

Ideally I'd like to swap them for lathe knowledge if there was someone local to me, if not I'll try sell them on ebay or something, but rather not having to deal with ebay.

I use my lathe for basic stuff, like spacers and things like that, but i'd like to learn screw cutting and someone to look into why my lathe is so noise in certain settings (I'm guessing probably a bearing)

this is the type of things I build, this one is a 1951 harley Panhead.

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Edited By JP Santos on 01/12/2021 16:16:08

01/12/2021 13:51:18
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 01/12/2021 13:10:53:

You say you "mainly use Imperial" but don't need BSW/F spanners?

Many model- and preservation- engineers need them, though.

Put an ad. in the For Sale list here.


yes, I work, as a hobby on my old harleys and old american cars and have plenty of AF sockets and spanners.
the BSW/F spanners just sit in a box on the side, so I thought trying to find someone who could have an interest in them.

01/12/2021 12:15:53

I agree, I thought they wouldnt be worth much, but then looked on ebay completed listings and some do good for some money, I saw some sets for like 50 quid?? not that I'm looking to get rich, I'd much rather trade it for knowledge and help.

01/12/2021 11:35:00

Hi all, long time no post on the site.

I have been through my spanner addiction and I have a lot of Whitworth spanners.
I mainly use imperial and have no need for this, wonder if there's any demand for it these days?
If I'm getting this right they are mainly useful for old british machinery, tractors, motorcycles etc..?

I had a look on ebay and some can go for quite a bit of money, the brands I have are King Dick, Matador, Elora, Snail Brand, Gordon tools, Super Slim and a few odd ones.

What should I do with this? sell? trade for something else?
anyone here interested in them? I'm in Andover, Hampshire, wouldn't mind trading these for someone willing to maybe service my lathe, give it a once over kind of thing?

thank you!
 

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Edited By JP Santos on 01/12/2021 11:37:32

Edited By JP Santos on 01/12/2021 11:37:41

Thread: Boxford Model A stopping on slow speeds...?
02/11/2018 17:07:56

Wow! thanks gents... you guys are like encyclopedia of information!!

Been a bit too cold to venture out in the garage, but do need to get some bits done, so want to make sure everything is in tiptop condition before using the lathe more.

30/10/2018 22:04:56

interesting.. just had a look on my lathe, and most of the nipples dont like for oil? they just look like normal grease nipples? although a tad smaller than the normal grease ones?

and did find that one tucked away!

 

Edited By JP Santos on 30/10/2018 22:06:40

29/10/2018 20:01:26

thanks for the replies gents! I actually have that book "know your lathe" somewhere, was given to me a few years ago by the old boy who sold me my south bend lathe...

I have a big plastic container with lathe oil that I bought years ago and still going that's how big that thing is..at the time didn't know how much i'd need so bought I think 4L or something...

Need to buy a oil gun then, haven't looked in detail how are the fittings but from the top of my head i think they are that ball bearing type, but probably can find something on ebay.

thanks for the detail on the back of the headstock, who would have known there was something in there!

26/10/2018 20:07:44

Just another small question, the nipples all around the lathe.. are they for grease?

Reason I ask is my old Myford and the southbend both had cups for oil to drip, more the myford than the southbend, but the Boxford... is there such thing as oil that can be shot in there?

or is actually just grease, with a normal grease gun?

thanks!

btw.. used the lathe today, now with the back gear engaged.. what a beauty!

24/10/2018 20:10:10

Hi all, thank you very much for your replies.

First of all, many thanks for pointing out I dont have much holding on the chuck for parting! That was incredibly stupid of me!
I'm a beginner but been using a lathe for about 6 years, so I'm alright with the facing, parting, etc and even grind my own tools for the shapes I want.
but thanks for pointing it out because it completely slipped my mind on that one...health and safety head wasn't working here!

Just been in the garage and you are all correct! I missed engaging the back gear! I lost count how many times I looked at the little plate to make sure I had it all on the right settings...and missed that!
I have just tried it now and it's fine.... with the back gear engaged it doesn't stop... damn.. I feel dumb! such a simple thing!

Also thanks to Robbo - there is indeed a bolt on a spring that holds the motor, that allows to lift it and change the belt on the motor! I did have a look around but is so tucked under there that I missed it. so thanks for the information.

I would like to say a big thanks for all your responses gents, I really thought there was something major wrong with it!

JP

23/10/2018 23:05:36

Hi all,

real beginner here on the lathe front.... I recently bought a Boxford Model A, which you guys kindly helped me to sort the backlash.

Well, today I had the need to part a piece and when on any low speed, as soon as I touch the piece it comes to a halt!
The gears keep spinning, the belt, etc, I had a look inside and its actually just the chuck that stops spinning.... how's that?

is there something wrong that is not tighten up? the chuck just slows down..and stops. I thought for parting you'd need really slow speeds, but the only way I can do it is like at 250rpm, which seems too fast?

Also while I'm here... if anyone has one of these lathes, how do you change the belt on the motor drive? for the gears there's enough slack to slip the belt over, but on the motor it doesnt slack as the whole fixture moves... or am I missing something again?

I have done a little video of the problem I'm having...

Thanks!

JP

Thread: Boxford Model A backlash
29/09/2018 12:07:06

Hi all again, was going to open a new thread to discuss something else, but probably not worth as it probably has a simple answer, so I'll try on this one instead.

I see on youtube videos people setting their workpiece, then the cross slide and then they zero it by turning the graduated dial.

I think this is very useful in order to know how much you taking out of your piece and keep consistency, but on my Boxford I can't rotate the dial, unless I undo the grubscrew - which I think it's not the correct way?

Is there a way to convert my boxford to have those graduated dials where I can turn it to zero?

thanks in advance
JP

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