Member postings for Lynne

Recently bought 100w 240v Traffic Signal GLS BC -B22d Pearl. Packaging clearly state 'not suitable for

household illumination'. This statement satisfies european legislation. Work fine in my front room.

Regards, Lynne.

Amazon- Hydraulic oil- Triad 32- 5litres- £18.84- post- £6.34 DLJ.

Has anyone found whitworth external form inserts on the Banggood site. I can only find metric. Lynne

Good Afternoon, Have got the pushrod out; threaded portion looks rather short. Does anyone just happen to have details of the overall length?, and length of thread would be usefull.

Myford do a spare. I have asked if they could supply length etc, but no response. Just looking for a sale I guess. Regards, Lynne

Hello Mike, Thanks for your post. The situation is that if I am to return the clutch system to its original form, I will have to extract the operating rod. As I said in my post, the screwed end of the rod has been retained in the driver plate by means of centre pops around the edge to displace metal and is locked by this , rather than the hex nut. I will remove countershaft, to investigate whether the ball is there or not. Regards Lynne

Good Day, Thanks for all the responses to the problem I raised.

Roderick. The slot is just below the face of the cone, and on closer inspection I can see that it has been centre popped around the edge, so there was no intention to replace the hex nut. The missing ball would appear to be a likely scenario, but to find out for sure, I am going to have to 'go in'. I cannot find the posts I read about the uncompromising spring. The 'keyword' search, I find, is pretty useless. Was it KWIL who posted a method of dealing with the the spring issue, by the use of long screws , and removal from the drive plate end. It would be usefull for me to have more detail of this approach. If it was KWIL, perhaps you could go through this method again. A PM perhaps?.

Eric. Many thanks for posting me the Myford info sheet. Cup of tea time, and a read.

Best regards, Lynne

I have been machining a piece of sq. bar 32mm A/f to the round over a distance of 1 1/2" Relativly modest cut .005" or so. Heavier cuts result in a resonant clatter from the clutch/countershaft assy. Investigation reveals a fair bit of radial movement in the clutch drive, before the drive is taken up. As machining off the corners is an intermittant load this is being replicated at the clutch drive , and hence the clatter. Having looked at the exploded view of the motorising assy, it appears to me that the drive is through cone and the two projections (dogs) on the driver plate. Now this may be the norm, but I am of the view that it should not be.( the noise)

Question is, has anyone else come up against the problem, and if you have, was it resolved. Having read the threads of clutch issues, I will not be dismantling to have a look.

Question 2. The assy. drg. shows a hex nut securing the push rod. I attach picture of the assy of my lathe . No hex nut !! Has there been a mod. and it now simply screw into the drive plate?. I look forward to your comments.

Regards Lynne

John Lavin, I have sent yyou a private message. Regards Lynne

Hi, John Fletcher1, My apologies for having missed your post ref. manual for the RDM350.

I do not have a users manual, and would certainly appreciate you sending me a copy. Presumablyvia the PM route. Many thanks . Regards , Lynne.

Colin, Ihave sent you private message, re bike restoration. Lynne

Thanks to all who have responded. Have never seen smoke, nor have I noticed the cabling getting hot. Had miscounted the number of strands of the larger cable, mainly because some had severed close to the sleeve. I have a stock of 40 strand cable, so I will upgrade the 30 strand cable to this. Regards Lynne

I am fitting a new NVR switch to a Naerok mill. The motor is probably 1/2 hp,.

but cannot be sure as it is not plated. Have noticed that the wiring to the motor, from the switch has 37 may be 38 strands of .007" dia. The wiring from the mains to the switch has 30 strands of .007" dia. I have tried to establish what the load carrying capacity of the cables,by going on line, but I cannot make a lot of sense from what I read. I feel sure that the electrical members on here can enlighten me. regards Lynne

ps. I did look to see if there was a topic for electrical, but could only find electronics.

There is a 2 n/d hand Picador imp. stand for sale on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Picador-No-29-Drill-Bit-Holder-3-64-1-2 Lynne

Thank you all for your helpful responses. Now its make my mind up time. Regards Lynne

There was a recent posting giving details of a lever type dti on ebay for £7. I cannot track down the posting, neither can I find the listing on ebay. I would appreciate some help. Thanks . Regards Lynne

Hello Michael, I have sent you PM. Lynne

Thanks to Jason B, and Ketan, for the specific info. on mills that are suitable to use on brass. The other posts whilst of interest, do not address the question I asked. Regards Lynne.

I am thinking of getteng some end mills which I intend to only use on brass . Need some advice on what to go for. Regards Lynne.

Curtis, I have sent you a private message . Lynne

Thanks for the responses.

Michael & Bob. 8 day longcase, english movement, well, the name on the brass face is Geo. Booth, Manchester. Hasn't ticked for 40 years that I know of. Weights, one cast iron, could be original, the other, pretty poor lead casting. Also missing the gathering pallet, which will be a challenge. The hands need attention, minute hand broken, but I have the pieces. There is more.

Catalogue. Meadows & Passmore. They describe them as Rack & minute wheel studs. Cousins describe them as Rack & lifting piece posts/studs. The 22mm length is insufficient, I need 25mm, so I will have to do a repair. Minute post is sound, Maj. thread dia. is 3.43mm, hole dia. 3mm. tread pitch using BA guage would appear to be 3BA.

So, what to do? drill 3.4 and tap 3BA, or try to match the original form. Regards Lynne