Here is a list of all the postings Peter Spink has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Carbide Insert Designations & Suppliers |
11/05/2020 08:23:20 |
Posted by JasonB on 11/05/2020 07:00:12:
Michael, no, the lines are what the stepover leaves at the edge of the diameter of the cut so size of tool would not matter. Totally impractical but would give straight marks on the surface. Peter, those plain shank flycutters are usually 1/2" or 12mm shank so that tool looks to be 6mm sq John, how do you get on with aright hand tool when I put one in my flycutter it would need to run in reverse and it also puts the insert off of the radial line so you end up with negative rake. Left Jason thanks for pointing that out - my flycutter takes 1/4" square toolbits (slot is about 8mm) so I would need a 6mm toolholder and shim it to get the cutting edge on the centre line. I don't think the CCGT button inserts are robust enough generally for interrupted cuts but maybe OK for a very fine finishing cut on Ally? Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2020 10:01:29 |
10/05/2020 23:09:29 |
Posted by John Hinkley on 10/05/2020 21:35:06:
Peter, JB Cutting tools do a "button" insert holder in 8mm. It uses an 8mm diameter insert. If you want a larger radius, you'd have to get a larger tool and grind it down. Or a carbide end mill might do the trick, too. By the by, I bought a box of 10 CCGT polished inserts at last year's Doncaster show (from the JB stand) ostensibly for machining aluminium, but just lately I've been using them more and more on steel. Once I got the speeds (high) and feeds (low for my lathe),right, the finish was really good. Incidentally, I use a righthand insert tool in my flycutter with good results. Not that I use it very often. John
Perfect John, Many thanks Peter |
10/05/2020 19:37:20 |
Is that an 8mm square shank? May I ask where from? Edited By Peter Spink on 10/05/2020 19:38:23 |
Thread: Boring vs Reaming |
08/05/2020 21:34:37 |
Bore it! Turn up a go-no gauge as in the book and you'll be fine. Made mine probably twenty+ years ago an it's one of the most used tools in the workshop, mainly for tapping. The original GHT handle was not at all user friendly so I made up my own. Forget the sensitive drilling attachment as more modern alternatives available now.
For bigger taps, an ER11 collet chuck which can pass through the arm with the nut removed. For even bigger taps a Jacobs chuck with a bayonet to disconnect the handle so it will pass through the arm. |
Thread: 3D Printed Newtonian Telescope |
03/05/2020 08:07:26 |
Wow that's a super job! +1 for details of your printer and set up please |
Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020 |
25/04/2020 20:32:40 |
Hi Joe, Not using Mach 3 to control the machine at all. Just using it with the camera software plug in! As I said I've just noticed the camera software is available as a stand alone so will check it out. Peter |
25/04/2020 20:05:06 |
Hi Martin, This: LINK is the bore scope. And this is the business end as installed. This bore scope may not be the best to use in this instance as the last 1M cable at the camera end is semi rigid - a more flexible lead may be preferable but I had this to hand. There are lots of these cameras around so maybe other options to experiment with but not sure whether they have metal tubes around the camera rather than plastic which wouldn't be so good for the grub screws to bear on.
Rgds, Peter
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24/04/2020 20:50:43 |
I've been using a USB 'Centrecam' with software by Mike Tretheway for some years now and it's been invaluable but unsupported for some time. Unfortunately it failed recently and having faffed around trying to fix it I decided it was time for a rethink. I was given, as an xmas present, a rifle borescope, 5.5mm dia with built in leds so decided to see if I could adapt it to replace the Centrecam. Ally housing machined up with M3 adjustment screws and fitted to original MT2 taper.
Downloaded and installed demo Mach 3 software and camera plug in LINK Very pleased with the results - much smaller and easier to align with the centre of the quill and added bonus of a microscope able to look at the state of tool tips as shown
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Thread: Ace Myford S. 7 mod |
19/04/2020 19:38:34 |
Cleaning? |
Thread: It would happen now! |
15/04/2020 14:15:47 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 15/04/2020 12:24:21:
Posted by Clive Hartland on 14/04/2020 15:44:45:
Thank youm gentlemen, all good info. spent an hour talking to an engineer from Swale gas based near me in Sittingbourne. Quite busy around this area. End result is a quote of £2788 to do the fitting of a wall mounted boiler, a WorcesterGreenstar.18R1 A rated boiler plus pipe work and flue connection. They will look at the Gledhill hot tank and if necessary repair it. I am happy with that quote so will tell them to go ahead soonest. PS, if hot tank no good then another quote! All within 48 hrs. Clive Sounds a lot to fit a £900 boiler, and you definitely don't need a that water tank with a combi boiler. The greenstar will give you hot water at a higher pressure and faster rate than most tanks. Greenstar 18Ri is a system boiler not a combi I would say installation cost is ballpark depending on which part of the country (!) |
14/04/2020 11:06:55 |
Posted by Clive Hartland on 14/04/2020 07:16:12:
I woke up last saturday to find that my boiler had failed, so with help from my Son we had a Plumber look at it. 'Kaput', he says, obsolete and no spares available, looks at hot tank and says it is leaking. Also there is a perforation of the flue just an inch or so from the boiler. It is all switched off now. This system is a Kingfisher boiler and a Gledhill tank system and quite efficient and is only the second breakdown in 20 years. Give me a quote:- Oh yes, thank you Sir. Comes the quote £5750, two men over 3 days. New boiler and a pressure tank. Running on the immersion heater at the moment at about £5.00 daily. but I am usng no gas so that should even out. Does sound like a lot but without more info it's difficult to give a definitive answer. Just a few of the questions to ask. Does that include powerflushing? (Essential for manufacturers guarantee) Gas supply adequate for new boiler? Flue in same place or need re-routing? Position of flue discharge and plume management? Somewhere for condensate to drain? TRVs to be fitted to radiators? A decent boiler (Vaillant, Worcester IMHO) will set you back about £1K plus flue and bits. The installation will have to comply with regs so a simple replacement thermostat will not comply. |
Thread: ARC Digital scales converted to mains power. |
10/04/2020 21:10:02 |
Surprised - current draw in these scales is tiny and batteries usually last for ages. Have you put in a new battery? Maybe original was duff.
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Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020 |
29/03/2020 12:27:04 |
Plenty of time on my hands self isolating in the workshop so making progress with the bottom end of the Lynx |
Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917 |
21/03/2020 23:00:36 |
Crikey, great work! I'm genuinely amazed by the quality of work by people on this forum - truly inspirational |
Thread: vfd question |
21/03/2020 10:17:51 |
Is this: LINK the one? Testing the earth continuity at 04.17 it appears that the earth is also switched via the locking pushbutton
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Thread: Electrolytic capacitor |
17/03/2020 18:42:46 |
Interesting stuff and great explanation - ta! |
Thread: Super 7 lubrication |
06/03/2020 20:20:47 |
Interesting and useful document. Against all my instincts I've heard that one should oil the clutch on the S7. I've never lubricated the clutch on my S7 and it's not been a problem in the 25+ years that I've owned it. Photo 5 in the document shows an arrow pointing at the clutch but no reference in the text that I can see. So what's the answer?
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Thread: Nemet - Lynx |
05/03/2020 07:29:22 |
That's great - a picture is worth a thousand words Many thanks chaps! Peter |
04/03/2020 08:25:12 |
Thanks David, useful info but not a great endorsement!p I think quite a lot have been built successfully so worth giving it a go. Not too bothered about usefulness - getting it to run at all would be a major achievement for me! Regards, Peter |
02/03/2020 20:12:25 |
Good evening all. Always wanted to build an IC engine so about make a start on the construction of this one. A couple of points - I'd rather like to use valve inserts in the head rather than seating the valves in the ally. Was hoping to look at the pics earlier in this thread but they're long gone. Any chance of them being resurrected? Secondly, am I missing the obvious - how do you get oil into the crankcase? I'm sure there'll be other questions en route but any help much appreciated! |
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