Member postings for Steamer1915

Which model?

Steve.

I have never had a problem with either my own or the one that I used in my former place of employment. I can only suggest following Jim's advice and try to lubricate all points of the linkage etc. Sorry, but I have never had this part of the machine to pieces.

Steve.

That looks suspiciously like a Hardinge machine to me. I would agree with Neil, as I have never had an issue with the stop moving on mine and I have screwcut up to a shoulder at 1000 rpm, leaving about 5 thou to spare. I would suggest that you investigate why the rod is so stiff to move. Does the handle feel stiff when you knock it across to either cut the thread or on its return journey? I would have to disagree with Ady1 - it is up to the job - something else is amiss. Fix the problem not the symptom.

Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 21/07/2013 10:15:54

Hello Richard

This was my point exactly. I was taught the "incorrect way" in the mid 70's at an engineering training centre where all the local companies sent their first year apprentices. Despite breaking out the centre of a 1/4" dia end mill, I carried on in this manner until there was an exchange of letters in the Model Engineer magazine in the 90's (I think) and only then did the penny drop. I have discussed this point with many people and the general concensus is that most of us were taught incorrectly. At the risk of incurring John's wrath, I would still say that if the cutter was inserted correctly i.e. hard up against the centre, then it shouldn't be able to move "a few thou" when it is used for a heavy cut. All that should happen when the cutter rotates under cutting torque, is that the collet will be pushed down into the taper within the nose piece and grip the cutter more tightly, therefore preventing further rotation. This is surely the ideal situation - the cutter will only be (self) tightened as much as it needs to be. Despite being in the Autolock wilderness for too many years, I now firmly believe the Clarkson people had it right all the time.

Steve.

John,

I'm struggling to see how the cutter moves out of position when it tightens itself. Isn't this the whole point of the Autolock chuck? i.e. It can't go any further in than the centre point will let it?

Steve.

Hello Richard, How are you tightening the Autolock? There is a common mis-conception that there must be a small gap between the nose piece and the body. This is incorrect.

Steve.

"ANYWAY..Back To Business..."

You don't give up do you!

Steve. (Yes, that really is my name)

Just found this on Fleabay:- **LINK**

So just to answer my own question _"no"

"The dial moves from the back"

I think John has it right.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 11/06/2013 16:23:55

Edited By Steamer1915 on 11/06/2013 16:24:29

Hi, Admittedly I haven't a definite answer for you, but I wondered if the contact point would unscrew from the back of the gauge and then screw into the end of the long arm?

Steve.

Hello Hansrudolf,

Yes, you are correct to say that some of the oil clings to the swarf. I don't do great amounts of machining compared to a commercial operation, but when I have made a decent amount (of swarf) I usually throw it into the bottom of the milling machine tray, let it drain for a day or two and then throw the swarf in a old oil drum, ready for the scrap man. I have to admit that I have yet to empty this bin yet, but I would say the oil recovery rates are acceptable to me.

Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 10/06/2013 16:58:33

Hi Dave,

You could try here:- **LINK**

(usual disclaimer)

Steve.

Hi Rik,

For the past couple of years I have been using Castrol "Ilocut 486" on both the Hardinge lathe and bridgeport mill. I went down this road because I was wary of condensation and I have had instances in the past where soluble oil has got under a vice and stained the table. Unusually for me, this has been a smart move. It isn't the cheapest stuff in the world, but works fine on steel and aluminium alike. I also smear it on parts that are likely to rust and it seems to form a good lasting film. My photos show some of the work I do.

Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 10/06/2013 12:27:55

Is anybody else having trouble with the link for the competition to win Tubal Cain's workshop manual? This was in an email sent late yesterday by MHS. (June Newsletter)

Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 07/06/2013 07:07:56

Plus one for "Flight of the Phoenix". It was the engine starting sequence that hooked me on radial engines. So much so that I started to build one. (See my photos) Hope to finish it one day. BTW, the modern remake with Dennis Quaid is absolute dross. Why oh why do they bother?

Steve.

Ady1, Norton says No! to your program

Dave, Have a look at this link.

**LINK**

This also shows you which cutter to buy for the number of teeth you require.

I would recommend Ivan Law's book on gear cutting to beginners and experienced people alike.

Steve.

The change gears on an ML7 are 20DP with a 14.5 degree pressure angle. You will need to know how many teeth you are cutting to decide which number cutter to use. There are 8 cutters in a set.

Steve.

As above. I bought "The Amateurs lathe" Lawrence Sparey over 25 years ago and I still refer to it.

Steve.

Thank you Gray, not only for your comments but the excellent design also.

Steve.

Here are three photos of my efforts at Gray's dial for the Myford 7 lathe. There is an Imperial and Metric version here.

Steve.